Masterbasser Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I bought a mechman 320 s billet hairpin alternator for my ford mustang late last year,just got it in maybe a month ago or so been working fine (kinda) I had hoped to get 14.5 volts out of the unit(requested 14.5 when i ordered) when i was seeing 13.9at max anyways a couple weeks ago i dropped in a different stereo and everything was going fine (i think) i am only running at 2 ohms on amp right now so getting maybe 3000 watts out at the most at 2 ohm load on amplifier im dropping into high 12s (not terrible) snaps right back now today I was driving to work and i looked down and seen voltage ranging from 13.5 to 15 volts,jumping around even with radio down,wasnt doing it all the time but here and there I could also hear a bit of whirring from up by the engine ( i suspect it was the alternator bearings maybe?) so i popped the hood and this is what i saw the bolt on the positive output of alternator had turned white i believe this bolt was copper colored when i got it with the alternator???, is there any explanation why that would be? and also why the voltage would be jumping around? possible regulator gone bad on alternator? Quote Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I don't think the nut is copper tbh. I just did. Mine. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 The nut on mine wasn't copper either, it's about 2-3 years old now. Quote UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterbasser Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 yea maybe it wasnt, i see a bit of corrosion developing there though. still want to know about the weird voltage issue though Quote Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Easy free check, but make sure all connection points are in tight. Any grounds or positive runs, make sure all bolts are on tight, all ring terminals are crimped or solder on well enough that you can yank on the wire and they won't pull out, etc. Quote UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterbasser Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 not to mention alternator never charged at idle even thoguh idle information crank pulley size was provided i have tried gettn the car to idle a bit higher thru tps manipulation but hasnt worked yet Quote Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 What volt meter were you using to measure that it was jumping around from 13-15 while driving to work? Quote SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 not to mention alternator never charged at idle even thoguh idle information crank pulley size was provided i have tried gettn the car to idle a bit higher thru tps manipulation but hasnt worked yet Not true.. Depends who makes it and If it's hairpin Op does the voltage jump when you accelerate? Did you replace the tensioner and a smaller belt? Slip is always the issue Quote my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 One thing I would highly recommend, replace the Sky High lug that has a 3/8" bolt hole with something with a smaller hole the fits the bolt snug. That can create a major issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterbasser Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 yea belt was replaced with smaller,tensioner good, voltage during acceleration is fine i was driving along at 60 mph and watchin voltage fluctuate,this was showing on a stinger voltmeter i now have a digital multimeter installed and will check tonight on way to work alternator is a hairpin,belt wrap is very good and dont see any black dust anywhere Quote Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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