Miguels Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 (edited) i dont think you understood.. was the tensioner replaced? sometimes they look okay but they are not. they tend to weaken as they age and if you replaced the belt 3 times more then likely its at the end of its life.. i had to replace mine and fixed my belt slip Edited July 7, 2015 by Miguels Quote my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterbasser Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 (edited) i checked all connections on vehicle before work and the one on alternator post had somehow loosened a bit, i went to tighten it and i could not tighten it without possibly breaking something (not sure if theres corrosion all over or if the bolt was partially melted or what but was unable to loosen or tighten the bolt without being scared of breaking it right off) i headed to work and noticed now i was getting 15.2 volts cold-later dropped to around 14.6 or so (hot im guessing) i believe the issue was a bad connection at the alternator positive output now at 2 ohm output dropping from 14.6 to 13.9 on bass hits. not sure what to do about the output bolt though I will update thread if there are any changes in the future! Edited July 7, 2015 by Masterbasser Quote Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 When you get home tonight, try to take your + leads off the charge stud and clean them up with a wire brush. Take it easy and try to pop it loose, and make sure you disconnect from the battery first just in case you hit the block by accident. No one likes that kind of light show. Quote UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan DM Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 My first question would be did you try to contact Mechman about this, or just posted it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 My first question would be did you try to contact Mechman about this, or just posted it up? he said he did Quote my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterbasser Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Nah never contacted anyone over there about it seems like everythings in order just was a bad connection, still not getting charge at idle sometimes,the car has a aftermarket cam in it so it lopes around anywhere from 800 to 600 at the lowest, depends what fuel im running usually seems to stay around 15 volts all the time now i am just worried about the connection on the charging stud and getting bolt off or tighter Quote Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 IIRC mechman tol me turn on for some of these larger alts usually starts right around the 700-750 rpm area, but mine's not a hairpin so I could be wrong on that. As far as popping that nut loose, just don't really crank on it but maybe put a wrench on it and tap the other end with a hammer and slowly try to break it loose. It may have just gotten really hot from the loose connection and might be seized up a bit. Quote UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 try putting some coke onto the bristles of a wire brush (that way you're not pouring it into the alt or anywhere else in the engine bay) and gently brushing off the corrosion. Quote SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebirdude Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 ^^^^ What kind of mom cries over a your pussy joke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 ^^^^ What kind of mom cries over a your pussy joke? Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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