jbeez Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 The gains were set using a DD1+, I think I forgot to mention that. Its ford sony factory DSP front door and tweeter speaker outputs feeding highlevel input to a helix DSP, out of the helix to my amps I measured at each point, speaker wire output. Vol goes to 1 notch under the 5th large vol marker out of 6. Helix I measured the RCA outs and found I could do a full gain on the output and that yielded 3.4v RMS according to the dd1. When I checked the gains on the zapco speaker terminals it was about 129v RMS for the 40hz tone according to the dd1+ The music I listen to 99% of the time is from my phone, One Plus One, bluetooth to factory stereo. Amazon prime music, google play music typically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 double post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Do-LowHrzHurts Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 I would check to see if your window regulator is bad or have a bad switch. I have fixed a couple of rides at the shop with these issues. Current build 300amp alt (1) xs power d4800 up front (1) Optima yellow top 34 out back All 1/0 skyhigh car audio power and ground including big 3/4 (2) Hyphonics 2000.4 front doors 5.25" memphis mclass comps don't recall exact model# future plans to run (2) pair 6-8" mids each front door. rear ski port 6.75" Alpine Type X pro series running passive rear doors factory 5.25" need better speakers. (1) ? sub amp maybe sundown saz-4500d (1) ? Subwoofer maybe team 15" getting by with a db drive 2400.1 class ab amp thats doing a good 660ish watts rms to single JL audio 13w6v2 @ 2ohms box 2.86 cubes slot port 32hrz def need way more batteries. https://instagram.com/p/4w51kBrX9g/?taken-by=boost_syndicate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 I would check to see if your window regulator is bad or have a bad switch. I have fixed a couple of rides at the shop with these issues. Wut? @OP measure resistance at the output on your amp to make sure there aren't any stray wires giving you grief. Also: How hot is the amp when it protects? Is it lukewarm or more of a OW THIS IS HOT? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 I would check to see if your window regulator is bad or have a bad switch. I have fixed a couple of rides at the shop with these issues. Wut? @OP measure resistance at the output on your amp to make sure there aren't any stray wires giving you grief. Also: How hot is the amp when it protects? Is it lukewarm or more of a OW THIS IS HOT? the speaker terminals? With the subs connected or not? Playing music? On/Off? I'll check the temp next time I mess with it, hopefully tonight I can get some time to look at it again after work. Last night I burned 2hrs of time waiting late at work for a package because the UPS driver didn't understand how to read an address, so a second driver had to redeliver it and he had no problems at all reading the address.... annoying shit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2015 amp was barely warm hooked DMM up for resistance across bridged speaker outputs, 4ohm played that track, it was all over the place, even dipping down to 0. surprisingly it played pretty well, no cutting off even at full blast for a little bit, then it took a dive after maybe 1-2 minutes i clamped the power into the amp while I tested the protect, the highest the input current got was 115A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted July 23, 2015 Report Share Posted July 23, 2015 That's really strange....Voltage is good at the moment of protect, so is temperature. DCR reads fine. Only 2 more things I can think of. One is where the amp is mounted, possibly vibration. The other is an intermittent short. Could pretty easily test both by placing the amp in a different vehicle with different subs hooked up if that's available to you. Other is to swap subs with known good ones and run fresh some wires through the port directly to the drivers. Ghetto, I know. But works for a test and will also help to rule out a faulty/pinched wire ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2015 I have tried different speaker wire in the past, and I had done it exactly that way right through the port hole, and it did look ghetto lol. The speaker wires in the box I think are good, the one in the amp rack takes alot more abuse from being pinched. That said its 8awg OFC knu wire I had for amp hookups, I used it for speaker wire. I can very easily get some 12awg to go from my amp right down to my sub box and test that out tonight, but I really don't think it would make a difference based on behavior of this issue atm. I've seen electronics have intermittent failures like this in the past based on heat and supply voltage issues, or failing board components and this really smells of that(not literally smells) Amp is mounted on an amp board above the subs, Here is a pic you can see the amp sort of https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sUMz0qRE3XLmOHzEkm-mTxDhNK4bzg0G3WkTl_jYXok=w1143-h858-no the more I trouble shoot, the more I'm concerned the amp needs some components replaced or I need to get a new amp. My subs can handle 1800w/ea and this amp is rated at 2200w. So if it is the amp I would just replace it with something newer like a crescendo 3500D which is matched a little better to the subs. I have some spare equipment around, the amp wasn't cutting out on the single alpine typeR sub i have in a ported box, but it shows an 8ohm load, and if i wired it to a 2ohm load and ran the amp in stereo config and just put it on one channel I think i'd fry the woofer considering its only rated for like 500w as is, but the amp in a mono load is rated for only 600w@8ohm. I have a pair of soundstream 10" subs in a sealed box, Im trying to remember the power handling and load those subs show but I can't think of it off the top of my head right now. I also have a memphis belle 1500D amp I could maybe hook up to the current subs and see how it goes, but I think that is really setup for 1ohm load I would just need to rewire my subs from series to series/parallel to show that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 so I couldn't swap the speaker wire too easily, that didn't happen tonight. i rechecked my DD1 readings, and it was showing distortion out of my helix DSP which it shouldn't have been showing..... if i mute my tweets and door speakers in the helixDSP(which im not even running through my highs amp yet, still factory amping those so this did nothing for me) the distortion out of the sub channel went away.... also the gain knob on the zapco is super finicky, it reads like 110v, then jumps right to what seems to be 140v-160v swinging back and forth and then it reads distortion if i keep going up from there a hair but the voltage reading stays doing that jumping around anyway I supposedly have a 5db overlap set, but its too late to test it. I'll give it a go in the morning, my batteries were getting pretty low too so idk how accurate it will be as for amp vibrations, I need to see if i can get some rubber bushings or something, IDK exactly what to do about that, everything vibrates Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 This will sound strange but it's a good test. If you can comfortably hold your forehead against the amp while playing it's vibrating too much. What happens if you unplug your bass knob? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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