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Some advice on electrical


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This will sound strange but it's a good test. If you can't comfortably hold your forehead against the amp while playing it's vibrating too much.

What happens if you unplug your bass knob?

fixed

2002 Honda CR-V
Alpine 9887

My Build

Rebuilding...

Second Skin Damp
4 DC XL 15's
2 DC 5ks
Singer 320 amp
6 cap banks
Sky High wire
2 VM-1's
OM-1

all under window line

Team DC Audio

Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.



EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way.

I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears.

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no bass knob per se, its a digital remote for the DSP. if i unhook it, the sub just runs 100% output from dsp. i dont have any bass knob for the zapco its close to impossible to get one

I'm also wondering if there is some sort of back EMF issue. I have 2 DVC subs with 1 ohm coils, I have these coils wired in series like so: 2_1ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif

prob my least favorite way to wire subs, but if i had my preference I would wire them series/parallel. I can do the in the porthole trick with speaker wire and independently wire each sub to show a 2ohm load, the c2k will do 1100w@2ohm per channel in stereo mode. That would eliminate back EMF concerns. If this works I can add a second set of binding posts on the sub box so I dont have to keep wires out the port hole and at least roll with it that way

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So I rewired subs this morning before work, and during my lunch break I went out and set my gains, and took a vid of the behavior.

I think I need to clean the POT that operates the gain with some contact cleaner, but I have some curious behavior from my DD1+ voltage reading

https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/AF1QipPt-ogdDvMguox-gH6EJiH4xqNJJ0NRnM7bktSW

I wired my DMM and set to VAC connected to same terminals as the DD1+ and stepped through track 1 on the CD.

zapco c2k 9.0xd is rated for 1100w per chan * 2 chan stereo @ 2ohm load, or 2200w RMS mono into a 4ohm load. If I math, the voltage should be ~47v out of the gain to give me 1100w per chan. When I set gains w/ dd1+ I don't get distortion until ~57.6vac or aprox 1650w output per chan. The funny thing is, my DMM read 57.6-57.7 when the dd1 distortion light came on, but the dd1 read like 90v on its display. clearly something going on there. If you watch the display in the vid, it goes right from around 60v to the 80range instantly on dd1, while the DMM keeps going as expected.

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Sorry for no updates, I'm away this week. But I've been thinking alot about this and I think I want to revisit my ground connections, map them out and double check them with a meter.

Also I wanted to share this, its a ford technician discussing how the new 2011+ ford alternators behave, it's pretty interesting IMO https://youtu.be/FAJeDX-T-Eg

Also I reached out to Tony he thinks my dd1 readings on the zapco may be off because of class D switching occurring at a high frequency and it might be picking that up, he asked I sent it back to him and he can mod it and return it.

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Testing voltage at the inputs on the amp (to see what the amp sees) rules out poor wiring as a cause

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I just got home a little bit ago, I had a pretty limited amount of time to test things w/ sunlight still up. Basically I think one of my grounds up front from engine block to chassis wasn't so great. I had a local police mechanic do that for me considering he's familiar with the SHO but I guess not or maybe its just different on the police package models. We had bolted from alt casing to a factory bolt hole up front on some lower frame looking area.

Well I tested DC voltage across tons of ground points and everything looked decent, i started the car while measuring voltage across the factory ground strap on the passenger side that comes off the head to the strut tower, and i checked the current draw. it was seeing about 8amps across that strap. I added a 0awg and then clamped it with the car idling(i clamped the 0awg and original strap together) and it was showing 40amp..... now my car has been sitting for a week so maybe the alt was busy charging the 5 batteries i have in the car, but I did a quick bump test and it sounded really strong. I couldn't get nuts its late and my neighbors have kids. Will try to do some more thorough testing tomorrow. It still cut out though heh

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Just to let you know the level of insanity I'm dealing with trying to work around the ford BMS,

adding this single 0awg knu flex ofc wire from the engine block to the chassis initially gave me a voltage increase:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WHjthBXtLR7vuH0HSCtoQ8JDObnXTj5CNRJsVIe6GUw=w910-h682-no

then after the car sat for its 8+hrs overnight and reset the BMS while I was driving it this morning the alternator went from steady out of 14.3 to now 13.4v.

My theory is the computer see's a battery voltage of my trunk AGM batteries at 13.x volt which is higher resting voltage than the factory lead acid battery up front of 12.7v, so it turns down the alternator output. I supposed a battery isolator would alleviate this, although I was planning on putting an AGM up front too. I wonder what will happen when the front battery is also a higher resting voltage.

This is the factory current clamp off the negative battery leads, https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WZJN5xtiCoYD_N3zIqCRUE4sxVrIaAKIOLwK3z3ffa0=w910-h682-no

the silver wire is obviously my doing, its a stinger 4awg. Do you think I could replace that 4awg with a 2 or 1awg welding cable?

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Only one true way to find out if it will fit...

Not sure if it was mentioned previously, but I dont recall at this time seeing anything about the under-the-hood battery being stock. Have the batteries all been load tested?

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my underhood batt is a stock ford motorcraft BXL-65 and alternator is stock 175A unit.

to futher add to confusion, when I got in the car this morning to goto the gym(again car sat >8hrs so BMS reset) the charging voltage was up back to 14.3 and when I played something at a moderate volume like 1/2way to 3/4 max the VM1 even jumped from 14.3 to 14.6 right after a bass thump as if the alt saw increased load pull through the stock batt neg terminal hall sensor and tried to compensate then it dropped lower and caused it to drop back down to 14.3 again over and over. So back to now working as it should? Test by ear, it sounds good nice thump. I didn't max it out.... wife was in the car with me so I couldn't get nuts its too loud for her HEH

now my front two ground points are just factory grounding points I used on the inside fenders, i measured resistance and voltage drop across my connections car on and off and everything looked good

im gonna try to order like 2ft of 1awg, 2awg and try slamming it through that ring. someone also suggested just unhooking the ring to defeat the BMS so the alt just runs like a normal alt, not sure that will even work though, and I'd rather not defeat factory mechanisms on my car since its still under warranty for another 5yrs. I might be able to measure and see if i can figure out the sizing before just ordering random shit

edit: Have never had the batteries load tested.

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  • 1 year later...

I know this thread is ancient, but... I just found out how to disable the ford BMS totally, so my ford alternator behaves like a standard alternator and doesn't keep shutting itself down to save fuel.  Used the forscan software and changed some memory blocks in the BCM module using a little odbII adapter I got on amazon for about $30.  I just changed that 2 days ago, and it's working great. So if anyone has a ford with the ford BMS setup, you may be able to just defeat that.  Recently I've been riding around and the voltage was showing 12.6-12.7 frequently, and now its up near 14.3 since I disabled the BMS.  In Dec my factory battery lost a cell and I replaced it with a D6500, and I'd say since the system saw the battery as being in amazing shape now, it charged even less!

 

Hope this helps someone!

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