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2004 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter V6 120k miles tranny flush twice since we've had it and oil changes on time. no major issues as of yet. or any issues really...

Had the car since about 12k miles in 2005. Always been a good car. For the past about year it has sputtered on start up. Doesn't matter if it's cold out or hot out. As soon as you hit the gas it runs fine after wards. When it very first started happening I was headed to work and sputtered so bad I turned around and switched vehicles. It didn't throw codes at first but after a few months it did, buddy came over with cheap scope thingy and it said mis fire in a certain cylinder so I changed all plugs and wires. Has never thrown a code since then though and that was last summer. It hasn't gotten worse but just like clock work, I start it and it sputters until you get on the accelerator. If you let it idle it will sputter for 5 min. or more, if you hit the gas right away it stops. I brought it to a shop, but they said without a code they couldn't fix it (I told them don't just throw parts at it because of $$$$).

I don't think it's the fuel pump, I have replaced those in every vehicle I have ever owned, lol.

Fuel regulator? 02 sensor?

I have limited knowledge and am not looking for guesses, if you think you actually know what it wrong because you have seen or heard of this exact same thing numerous times please let me know what you think it is. Thanks

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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I should add that it doesn't seem like it has ever had loss of power or anything, like everything else seems fine

and: I have ran so many different types of fuel system cleaners in it and none have done anything at all. I was hoping for a cheap fix like that since it seems like something simple since I can still drive it like normal.

I'm really hoping it's not injectors. Would they throw a code?

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Um, not sure when/if fuel filter was changed. Have done it on so many vehicles I have lost track. No new cap and rotor. No codes pisses me right off, great technology they put into vehicles that doesn't even work or help. That fuel position sensor is soemthing I thought about trying next. I don't really like this car so I don't want to throw too much money at it, lol.

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Before you go throwing parts at it bring it to someone with a scanner than can read the positions, voltages, and percentages of the different sensors in the vehicle. I would have said person start by looking at the ignition spark advance, throttle position percentage, and fuel rail pressure at start up and idle. I would also look into the IAC valve and possible vacuum leaks.

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Before you go throwing parts at it bring it to someone with a scanner than can read the positions, voltages, and percentages of the different sensors in the vehicle. I would have said person start by looking at the ignition spark advance, throttle position percentage, and fuel rail pressure at start up and idle. I would also look into the IAC valve and possible vacuum leaks.

X2

If your mechanic can't figure out an issue without a trouble code it's time for a new mechanic.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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