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single hdc4 or hdc3 for jeep grand cherokee


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so im thinking of doing a kinda over the top box, i have a friend that can get me 1.5" thick SOLID red oak wood counter top boards for cheap. i want to build a box for a single hdc4 (most likely) for my jeep, i would be adding in a window and sanding very smooth and staining the box. so hopefully a really nice looking solid wood dark cherry stained box with a carbon fiber sub (dust cap)

i honestly dont know what space the 12" hdc4s like

what im looking for:

dual areos

sub facing up in the center of the box

ports facing back and one on each side (so the box is symmetrical)

loud but more of a FLAT response for a better sounding rear stage.

***would anyone recommend a different 12" size sub for a good sound quality build. im willing to give up to 2000rms to the sub of choice. ***

MAX DIMENSIONS I HAVE TO WORK WITH

45" WIDE x 16" TALL x UP TO 32" DEEP but would like to stay under 18-20" if possible

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A single 15", Fi /AA would give you good output and sound quality (despite being a 15"), the rest is in the box, as long as you don't peak more than 3 dB you will get nice musicality. If you want plain flat then sealed, is just that sealed is very inefficient.

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You didn't mention what year Jeep? Best sounding box I've ever used in my Jeeps (and I've built literally dozens) was subs and port up 3 12's. Sub(s) up port out to the passenger side/corner has been loudest on the meter (by a little). I haven't had great results with port to the rear.... it seems the guys who get loud porting to the rear in Jeeps have the back seat folded down and the box rather farther front than you'd normally want for daily.

IMAG0060.jpg

^^^^^ Loud

DSC01761.jpg

DSC01783.jpg

^^^^ Sounded great.

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Getting flatter response is going to be a bit of challenge considering the amount of power you are going to be running. Subs that can take that amount of power generally have tighter suspensions, which contribute to peaky output. For the HDC series this is especially true. Like Joe X said, going to a 15" will make it easier to get flatter response.

Also, depending on the dimensions of your box you may have issues using aero ports unless you want to put bends in them. Just something to think about.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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well if it makes a difference my original sub was going to be either a 12 or 15" dayton ultimax http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 thats the 12. only 600rms and i would assume a much softer spider.

edit: like i said im not looking to be too crazy loud, just good over all sound.

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well if it makes a difference my original sub was going to be either a 12 or 15" dayton ultimax http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 thats the 12. only 600rms and i would assume a much softer spider.

edit: like i said im not looking to be too crazy loud, just good over all sound.

Yeah the Ultimax has a much softer suspension. If you look at the Vas of a sub, its a measurement of how stiff/soft the suspension is. Higher Vas = softer suspension for subs of equal size. For comparison the Ultimax 12" has a Vas of 46.7 liters, the HDC312 has a Vas of 21 liters.

If you want I can compare the output of different subs/boxes for you, just let me know what you are interested in.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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yea if you have time to run the outputs.... let me know which would work best

1) hdc4 at 2000rms in 2.5ft^3 box and idk what to tune it at

2)dayton ultimax at 1000rms in a 2.5ft^3 box and again for that sub idk what i would want to tune it at.

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OK, here ya go:

L2syN56.png

Red line is the HDC412 on 2k watts.

Green line is the UM12-22 on 1k watts.

Please keep in mind that SoundQubed doesn't publish full specs on the HDC4 subs, so I had to make an educated guess on a couple. Also that graph is raw output, cabin gain is going to boost the low end significantly. None the less, that graph makes it pretty obvious that the HDC412 is a peaky little beast.

Here is another graph, this time with roughly approximated cabin gain added in:

w5PHQxu.png

Red and green lines are the same things as above, orange line is a Havoc 15 in 3 cubes tuned to 30 Hz on 2k watts.

Like I said, the cabin gain is just a rough approximation, I can't promise that's what you will get, but it gives you a bit of an idea. The differences in output between the different subs/boxes should be reasonably accurate though.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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OP still didn't mention which year Jeep, but mine have liked to have a cabin resonance @ 54-55hz depending on the day of the week.

sorry its a 2005...

OK, here ya go:

L2syN56.png

Red line is the HDC412 on 2k watts.

Green line is the UM12-22 on 1k watts.

Please keep in mind that SoundQubed doesn't publish full specs on the HDC4 subs, so I had to make an educated guess on a couple. Also that graph is raw output, cabin gain is going to boost the low end significantly. None the less, that graph makes it pretty obvious that the HDC412 is a peaky little beast.

Here is another graph, this time with roughly approximated cabin gain added in:

w5PHQxu.png

Red and green lines are the same things as above, orange line is a Havoc 15 in 3 cubes tuned to 30 Hz on 2k watts.

Like I said, the cabin gain is just a rough approximation, I can't promise that's what you will get, but it gives you a bit of an idea. The differences in output between the different subs/boxes should be reasonably accurate though.

i actually really like the curve on the ultimax, im trying to avoid peakyness, but ill take a look at the havoc as it will give me db at higher hz. what was the tuning you set for the dayton in these graphs?

edit: havoc isnt a bad looking sub, but the actual looks i might have to change, i wonder if there are any carbon dust caps that would fit over the ugly blue logo

edit 2:not sure if its worth looking into... but what about the dayton ultimax 15 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um15-22-15-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-514

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