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I now know my system is set up properly using a DD-1 & CC-1.

Took all of maybe 5 minutes (of which 3-4 was spent reading & re-reading the procedures, stupid reading comprehension!) to get the job done right.

The only issue (i think) is the difference in the hpf crossover set points (71hz) of the front and rear channels of the Sundown SAE-50.4

highlighted in red below

crossovers_zpsjag7dwxj.jpg

Does this seem right? it's the only issue i think i might have

Edited by Markous

'07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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After setting it and disconecting the CC-1 then turning the test tone up a bit more the front and rear seemed to sound pretty well matched up.

I don't diagree with you though Moreno, something doesn't seem right. maybe a potentiometer issue?

I'll throw it on again tomorrow and double check.

'07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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the CC-1 would not light up if those frequencies were not calibrated. Like kirill007 said ^^^ that is a GREAT reason to not attempt to use the silk screened numbers on the side of an amp :D

also, just so you don't freak out....are you sure those gains had the actual slot (for the screwdriver) in the same position to begin with? (from the bottom of course)?


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also, looking at your arrows...are you sure that you pointed them in the right direction (for the purpose of showing us)? If the top arrow was flipped, they wouldn't appear as far off as they do. Either way, if you used a CC-1 and both sides of that amp light up calibrated at your chose frequency, then that's all you need to do. Hows it sound?


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
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the CC-1 would not light up if those frequencies were not calibrated. Like kirill007 said ^^^ that is a GREAT reason to not attempt to use the silk screened numbers on the side of an amp :D

also, just so you don't freak out....are you sure those gains had the actual slot (for the screwdriver) in the same position to begin with? (from the bottom of course)?

I was just really surprised at the difference between the two which is why i wanted to ask here. but like you said i may not have marked the arrow heads proper.

Not sure what you're saying in the 2nd sentence, are you refering to the similarity in the gains (not the crossovers) that have been set? they where both turned down to the minimum before i played track 5 as asked in step 2 in the manual. Again excuse my reading comprehension it isn't one of my strong suites.

also, looking at your arrows...are you sure that you pointed them in the right direction (for the purpose of showing us)? If the top arrow was flipped, they wouldn't appear as far off as they do. Either way, if you used a CC-1 and both sides of that amp light up calibrated at your chose frequency, then that's all you need to do. Hows it sound?

Now that you mention that, i'm not 100% sure if i marked the arrow head on the one properly :unknw:i should double check just to be sure doesn't take much time.

It really sounds good Steve, even at maximum output! which i can't always say for other systems i've heard set with the ear-o-meter.

Thank you for the reply and questions.

Edited by Markous

'07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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