AstoSoup Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Pretty simple thing I need some suggestions on here... I have two Powerbass 3XL 15's in a 2003 Ford Explorer XLS 4 door. 9.6 cube net cube box, aero ported @35Hz, subs up, ports back. Have them on an old Zenon board Audiopipe 3k @.5ohm, seeing around 2800RMS total. It's pretty loud now, 148.x with fully charged AGM's, alt. can't keep up but that's a different topic lol. With the loudness however, has came the destruction of my rear hatch. Welds breaking apart, window separating, etc. I have already deadened the hatch and doors but the rattle in the rear of the vehicle is almost unbearable now, making the bass unenjoyable :/ What I would like to do is a C-pillar wall, would take care of the rear hatch making noise and give me much less roof area to flex/rattle. Would it be beneficial to wall just the two 15's in a c-pillar? I know most people tend to have a minimum cone area when walling, would walling just the two 15's decrease or increase output? If walling the two 15's is a no-no, what 4 subs would everyone recommend to wall on 3k RMS? If changing subs I would like to keep the cost down, I was thinking 4 HDS215's maybe.... Would like to keep the current subs I have though as I like them, so input is as always, greatly appreciated! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 No one with any insight? Really? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I'm fairly certain walling is going to increase output. You will be reducing your cabin volume significantly, so the same energy into the a smaller space is going to get your more SPL. I think the reason you don't see people doing walls with just two 15"s is because walling is a major project. It takes a lot of time and materials, so if you are going to go to the effort, you might as well spend a few extra bucks and get the max amount of cone area you can. Not because less cone area won't work, but because more cone area requires almost no additional effort and will give you more output. I realize that probably doesn't help you much. My suggestion would be to estimate how much effort it is going to take you to wall off and then decide if you think it's worth it or not. Your opinion is the only one that matters in the end. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I'm fairly certain walling is going to increase output. You will be reducing your cabin volume significantly, so the same energy into the a smaller space is going to get your more SPL. I think the reason you don't see people doing walls with just two 15"s is because walling is a major project. It takes a lot of time and materials, so if you are going to go to the effort, you might as well spend a few extra bucks and get the max amount of cone area you can. Not because less cone area won't work, but because more cone area requires almost no additional effort and will give you more output. I realize that probably doesn't help you much. My suggestion would be to estimate how much effort it is going to take you to wall off and then decide if you think it's worth it or not. Your opinion is the only one that matters in the end. That actually helps immensely, thank you! I am looking for two more of my subs now because Powerbass changed up their design so they cannot be purchased new anymore. The new model not only look different, but the TS parameters are also slightly different. So if I find two more of them, I may wall all 4 If not, I am either going to wall these two I have or double my cone area and go with 4 HDS215's or something similar. I see what you mean on it being a waste of time and materials for only two subs, didn't think of it that way.... If all else fails and my budget get's tight, I may try to wall the pair but really would like at least four 12's. Thanks again for the info, at least now I know I CAN wall these if necessary! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 Well, would like to thank Triticum Agricolam again for being the ONE person out of the 110 that viewed this to take the time to type a helpful response. A lot of knowledge stewing around these forums and many, very talented people... but seeing there is not much passion to help a fellow basshead! I always help anyone when it comes to car audio, I guess that passion died somewhere within this forum :/ Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted October 3, 2015 Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 Don't even judge my passion. Nor this forum. I was probably answering the 62 pm's of questions I had when you posted your "tell me what to do" thread. Anything else? SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted October 3, 2015 Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 Well, would like to thank Triticum Agricolam again for being the ONE person out of the 110 that viewed this to take the time to type a helpful response. A lot of knowledge stewing around these forums and many, very talented people... but seeing there is not much passion to help a fellow basshead! I always help anyone when it comes to car audio, I guess that passion died somewhere within this forum :/ There are these things called lives.... and people have them. If someone see's a topic like this, they are not going to respond if they do not have the experience, plus there is plenty of searchable info that would answer your question, because it has been asked before, which would be another reason people might not answer. People don't like to repeat themselves when there is a perfectly usable search bar. /rant In reality, Triticum answered it perfectly for the most part, if you spend weeks of time on a build, it isn't going to be for 2 15's (generally). The amount of materials needed along with the space you are taking up, you might as well spend a bit more, double your cone area, and even on the same power with the smaller cabin volume along with the gain in cone area, you would gain a great deal of output. edit: and it has nothing to do with passion..... I came in from cutting out the baffle for my 4 15's wall to answer this just because you posted about this "loss of passion." It is hard to work and type on a keyboard at the same time, not to mention the forum traffic actually makes it harder to see new topics because the older active topics are always bumped to the top. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 So everyone is busy as hell for two days, then I post a reply that's NOT asking for advice and magically two people suddenly have time to respond?? Wasn't a "tell me what to do" post, have limited experience with walls and was asking a simple question about walling only two 15's. THIS is my point, a thread asking for some advice can be viewed over 100 times and no one can type a word but when they are called into question, it's all fingers on keyboards! Quick as hell to defend yourselves but absent when it comes to lending some knowledge or ideas... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 Well, would like to thank Triticum Agricolam again for being the ONE person out of the 110 that viewed this to take the time to type a helpful response. A lot of knowledge stewing around these forums and many, very talented people... but seeing there is not much passion to help a fellow basshead! I always help anyone when it comes to car audio, I guess that passion died somewhere within this forum :/ There are these things called lives.... and people have them. If someone see's a topic like this, they are not going to respond if they do not have the experience, plus there is plenty of searchable info that would answer your question, because it has been asked before, which would be another reason people might not answer. People don't like to repeat themselves when there is a perfectly usable search bar. /rant In reality, Triticum answered it perfectly for the most part, if you spend weeks of time on a build, it isn't going to be for 2 15's (generally). The amount of materials needed along with the space you are taking up, you might as well spend a bit more, double your cone area, and even on the same power with the smaller cabin volume along with the gain in cone area, you would gain a great deal of output. edit: and it has nothing to do with passion..... I came in from cutting out the baffle for my 4 15's wall to answer this just because you posted about this "loss of passion." It is hard to work and type on a keyboard at the same time, not to mention the forum traffic actually makes it harder to see new topics because the older active topics are always bumped to the top. He did answer my question very well and I appreciate that very much! But see all of this useful info you just gave to me? It took me calling peoples passion into question to get a response.... I have decided to go with four 15's, but I did search MANY times for an answer and was not finding one. I seen no c-pillar walls with two 15's, nothing explained WHY that was, so I asked. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted October 3, 2015 Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 if you spend weeks of time on a build, it isn't going to be for 2 15's (generally). On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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