Jump to content

security and antitheft questions


Recommended Posts

So someone please explain to me how a properly installed alarm is "easily bypassed"? Between a shock sensor, glass break sensor, motion sensor and door pins.... you ain't getting in that thing without setting the alarm off. If you're worried about them getting under the hood and pulling the battery or something, a 10 cent pin/tilt switch on the hood would be all it takes to trip the alarm. From there, battery backup sirens. Make sure the installers hook up the car's horn too. Screwing around under the hood with a couple sirens and the car's horn blaring isn't pleasant AT ALL.

But as has been said, this is all a deterrent. Hopefully a thief will see the deterrent LED and the Viper stickers and move onto a different target. If they still choose to break in, hopefully the alarm/horn going off with be enough for them to run. From there, yeah, securing the box and amp(s) well is your best option. Bolts through the bottom of the box into the body of the vehicle, then install the subs. Install them with either torx screws or maybe T-nuts and 8mm bolts or something? Something other than phillips. You know what would be dope? Weld the nuts to the underside of the body. Then you can screw in/out the bolts from inside the box and never have to get under the vehicle again.

Beyond that, bro, move out of the fucking ghetto.

Follow the golden rules. No stickers on the outside and don't bump where you park.

Alarms are pointless unless it's Bluetooth and you're within range to hear it/receive the alarm via Bluetooth.

ROFL! Bluetooth. I don't think so....

all those things makeup a premium alarm system but still it's pretty easy especially if you got some time and not worried about being nice. if it were me, i'd set the alarm off to figure out where the siren is located. break the glass and pop the hood, clip the wire to the siren output. flash a light under the dash to reveal where the alarms is mounted, unplug it and now the lights aren't flashing. I now have nothing distracting me from jacking all your stuff. heaven help you if I had someone with me removing your stuff while I do the other things. if it were 2 other people I could get all of your good stuff removed in under 5 minutes. yes my method will make the alarm go off, even if you have some sort of 2 way notification and you're less than 300ft away you'll still have a clipped siren output and a broken window. the real deterrent is prevention of being a target for theft.

A premium alarm/install is not gona have wires and modules just flailing out in the open for the grading and cutting everything will be hidden

Link to comment
Share on other sites

insurance > alarm

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As said before insurance > alarm. Buy what you would normally & keep reciepts & purchase insurance to cover your aftermarket stuff. Someone broke into my truck one of the very few nights it was outfront in my drive way in the subburbs, didn't take anything but disconnected my alarm & destroyed my ignition.

They will do whatever they want doesn't matter what you have unless your awake 24/7 watching with a gun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everyone saying move are y'all gona pay for me to move somewhere with a garage?? Though not

People saying get insurance I have full coverage and will be consulting to see what I need to do to cover my modifications when I have receipts

Another reason for a alarm is I get a (allbe it small) discount for having a alarm professionally installed

Another thing with moving is I'm not so much worried about my stuuf being stolen in my apt complex its while I'm at work or at other peoples houses

As I said before I know a alarm isn't going to stop someone with experience/confidence/desperation ect but it will stop the small time asshole

Same with the locking everything down someone who's trying to smash and grab my not be equipt to cut a cable/padlock or unscrew a sub

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alarms are pointless unless it's Bluetooth and you're within range to hear it/receive the alarm via Bluetooth.

ROFL! Bluetooth. I don't think so....

What do you not think? That being within range of an available Bluetooth transmitting alarm (which is really only when you're home and the car is in your driveway/garage) is not a more reliable (even if still not very good) way of knowing if your car is being broken into and taking action to stop it, rather than hoping that you'll hear it or the non-existent Johnny-do-good will do something? Or you don't think there are Bluetooth alarm modules? Please elaborate as to what you found humorous?

Bluetooth technology is borderline pointless for an alarm. It has zero range. Only reason it MIGHT be useful is if you lost your keyfob and could whip out the phone and disarm the alarm/unlock the doors with your phone instead. And as far as I know, Viper is the only one who has a module like that, the VSK100.

2-way feedback on an intrusion alarm is commonplace man. It's done with regular RF. Not Bluetooth. Most any 2-way RF transmitters are advertised at a mile range, though obviously that's laboratory conditions. Real world, you'll probably get 1/4 of that. Compustar just released their T11 keyfob with an advertised range of 3 miles. I haven't attempted a real world max range test with it yet, but I've gotten feedback from a LONG friggin way away. Specific ranges aside, bluetooth technology is just not used for this application. You'd be able to hear the alarm further than bluetooth can reach. That's what I found humorous. So don't get your panties in a wad.

So someone please explain to me how a properly installed alarm is "easily bypassed"? Between a shock sensor, glass break sensor, motion sensor and door pins.... you ain't getting in that thing without setting the alarm off. If you're worried about them getting under the hood and pulling the battery or something, a 10 cent pin/tilt switch on the hood would be all it takes to trip the alarm. From there, battery backup sirens. Make sure the installers hook up the car's horn too. Screwing around under the hood with a couple sirens and the car's horn blaring isn't pleasant AT ALL.

But as has been said, this is all a deterrent. Hopefully a thief will see the deterrent LED and the Viper stickers and move onto a different target. If they still choose to break in, hopefully the alarm/horn going off with be enough for them to run. From there, yeah, securing the box and amp(s) well is your best option. Bolts through the bottom of the box into the body of the vehicle, then install the subs. Install them with either torx screws or maybe T-nuts and 8mm bolts or something? Something other than phillips. You know what would be dope? Weld the nuts to the underside of the body. Then you can screw in/out the bolts from inside the box and never have to get under the vehicle again.

Beyond that, bro, move out of the fucking ghetto.

Follow the golden rules. No stickers on the outside and don't bump where you park.

Alarms are pointless unless it's Bluetooth and you're within range to hear it/receive the alarm via Bluetooth.

ROFL! Bluetooth. I don't think so....

all those things makeup a premium alarm system but still it's pretty easy especially if you got some time. if it were me, i'd set the alarm off to figure out where the siren is located. break the glass and pop the hood, clip the wire to the siren output. flash a light under the dash to reveal where the alarms is mounted, unplug it and now the lights aren't flashing. I now have nothing distracting me from jacking all your stuff. heaven help you if I had someone with me removing your stuff while I do the other things. if it were 2 other people I could get all of your good stuff removed in under 5 minutes. yes my method will make the alarm go off, even if you have some sort of 2 way notification and you're less than 300ft away you'll still have a clipped siren output and a broken window. the real deterrent is prevention of being a target for theft.

FIrst, a battery backup siren continues to sound even with zero wires connected. The battery pack is built onto the siren and isn't something you can just pop out. It's not like a child's toy. So there goes your theory right there. Second, a proper install means installing the siren in a location that's both hard to spot instantly and hard to reach. Sometimes I'll remove a headlight housing to install it, then reinstall the headlight, for example. Third, two sirens under the hood with the car's horn..... trust me.... you won't physically want to spend more than about 5 seconds under that hood before you tap out. That shit fucking hurts. And finally, as was mentioned, a proper install means the alarm brain isn't just chilling under the dash waiting for you to stick your head under there (in fact, you might find another siren under there lol). It might not be under the driver's dash at all. I've put them behind factory head units, behind tough to remove glove boxes, behind gauge clusters, etc etc. As with the siren, I've got a lot more time during installation than you've got while you're breaking in. Trust me. I guaran-fucking-tee you're not disabling an alarm I installed in under 10 minutes. And if you've got 10 true minutes to screw with the alarm before even touching his bolted to the body stereo system, then there's nothing on this Earth that would save his shit. As for having a friggin pit crew of thieves with you, yeah that would help. But is pretty rare and still isn't going to be a walk in the park. For a random or even intermediate thief (99.99% of them), they're moving to a different target.

smd-banner_zpsu2ojqise.png
Link to comment
Share on other sites

there are at least 2 alarm systems that now can be controlled from your phone....from anywhere. Viper smart start and Encore to name two.

Insurance should be a backup, not a priority. It should be for that 1 chance you encounter a professional who has a decoder or knows exactly what you have in your car and how it's bolted down. This is YOUR equipment....I hate that "doesn't matter, insurance will cover it" attitude. Such a cop-out. Not to mention if your equipment is rare or discontinued and not offered at that power rating anymore.

Like it's been said, deterrent is to hope the thief doesn't want the hassle (and doesn't know what's inside enough to bother). Disable is to make sure they can't steal the whole car.

No stickers, your already tinted, and a nice 2-way alarm is the best way to go (I personally like Directed products). Get the smartphone controlled one if you can afford it.

AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So someone please explain to me how a properly installed alarm is "easily bypassed"? Between a shock sensor, glass break sensor, motion sensor and door pins.... you ain't getting in that thing without setting the alarm off. If you're worried about them getting under the hood and pulling the battery or something, a 10 cent pin/tilt switch on the hood would be all it takes to trip the alarm. From there, battery backup sirens. Make sure the installers hook up the car's horn too. Screwing around under the hood with a couple sirens and the car's horn blaring isn't pleasant AT ALL.

But as has been said, this is all a deterrent. Hopefully a thief will see the deterrent LED and the Viper stickers and move onto a different target. If they still choose to break in, hopefully the alarm/horn going off with be enough for them to run. From there, yeah, securing the box and amp(s) well is your best option. Bolts through the bottom of the box into the body of the vehicle, then install the subs. Install them with either torx screws or maybe T-nuts and 8mm bolts or something? Something other than phillips. You know what would be dope? Weld the nuts to the underside of the body. Then you can screw in/out the bolts from inside the box and never have to get under the vehicle again.

Beyond that, bro, move out of the fucking ghetto.

Follow the golden rules. No stickers on the outside and don't bump where you park.

Alarms are pointless unless it's Bluetooth and you're within range to hear it/receive the alarm via Bluetooth.

ROFL! Bluetooth. I don't think so....

all those things makeup a premium alarm system but still it's pretty easy especially if you got some time and not worried about being nice. if it were me, i'd set the alarm off to figure out where the siren is located. break the glass and pop the hood, clip the wire to the siren output. flash a light under the dash to reveal where the alarms is mounted, unplug it and now the lights aren't flashing. I now have nothing distracting me from jacking all your stuff. heaven help you if I had someone with me removing your stuff while I do the other things. if it were 2 other people I could get all of your good stuff removed in under 5 minutes. yes my method will make the alarm go off, even if you have some sort of 2 way notification and you're less than 300ft away you'll still have a clipped siren output and a broken window. the real deterrent is prevention of being a target for theft.

A premium alarm/install is not gona have wires and modules just flailing out in the open for the grading and cutting everything will be hidden

hidden not invisible. there is not place that installs alarms that good. i'd love for you to show me the unicorn alarms install you speak of b/c to me you're just running your mouth about how good alarms are even though the technology for alarms hasn't changed in 20+ years. anybody who knows anything about alarms will find the brain. you can try all you want to conceal the brain but it's a huge piece to hide.

if nothing changes, nothing changes

You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So someone please explain to me how a properly installed alarm is "easily bypassed"? Between a shock sensor, glass break sensor, motion sensor and door pins.... you ain't getting in that thing without setting the alarm off. If you're worried about them getting under the hood and pulling the battery or something, a 10 cent pin/tilt switch on the hood would be all it takes to trip the alarm. From there, battery backup sirens. Make sure the installers hook up the car's horn too. Screwing around under the hood with a couple sirens and the car's horn blaring isn't pleasant AT ALL.

But as has been said, this is all a deterrent. Hopefully a thief will see the deterrent LED and the Viper stickers and move onto a different target. If they still choose to break in, hopefully the alarm/horn going off with be enough for them to run. From there, yeah, securing the box and amp(s) well is your best option. Bolts through the bottom of the box into the body of the vehicle, then install the subs. Install them with either torx screws or maybe T-nuts and 8mm bolts or something? Something other than phillips. You know what would be dope? Weld the nuts to the underside of the body. Then you can screw in/out the bolts from inside the box and never have to get under the vehicle again.

Beyond that, bro, move out of the fucking ghetto.

Follow the golden rules. No stickers on the outside and don't bump where you park.

Alarms are pointless unless it's Bluetooth and you're within range to hear it/receive the alarm via Bluetooth.

ROFL! Bluetooth. I don't think so....

all those things makeup a premium alarm system but still it's pretty easy especially if you got some time and not worried about being nice. if it were me, i'd set the alarm off to figure out where the siren is located. break the glass and pop the hood, clip the wire to the siren output. flash a light under the dash to reveal where the alarms is mounted, unplug it and now the lights aren't flashing. I now have nothing distracting me from jacking all your stuff. heaven help you if I had someone with me removing your stuff while I do the other things. if it were 2 other people I could get all of your good stuff removed in under 5 minutes. yes my method will make the alarm go off, even if you have some sort of 2 way notification and you're less than 300ft away you'll still have a clipped siren output and a broken window. the real deterrent is prevention of being a target for theft.

A premium alarm/install is not gona have wires and modules just flailing out in the open for the grading and cutting everything will be hidden

hidden not invisible. there is not place that installs alarms that good. i'd love for you to show me the unicorn alarms install you speak of b/c to me you're just running your mouth about how good alarms are even though the technology for alarms hasn't changed in 20+ years. anybody who knows anything about alarms will find the brain. you can try all you want to conceal the brain but it's a huge piece to hide.

look at what firebirddude said

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...