Ozzt Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Hello! I've been scouting this forum for a while now, just lurking around and looking at other peoples builds. So i though what the heck, might as well post my own. The build will consist mainly of updates about the sound system, but I will also post about other things I do to the car if you're interrested. The car is a 1997-model Galant GLX 2.0L SOHC (in other words it is the model with no extra equipment, ugly bumpers and sideskirts, no leather interior, gray plastic panels.. Quite boring I know. But not anymore ) I bought the car when i was 16 years old, and thats three years ago now, so.. yes, I'm only 19 years old. I'll just put out some pictures, sorry if they're in random order, but if you have any questions, just ask Some pictures of the car before/after BEFORE, boring as shiz, all stock UNDERWAYS, workworkwork... I even "rebuilt" the facelift hood, which was bent and crushed out of proportions.. AFTER, as she sits now, on Cusco Vacanza coilovers (no, this is far from the lowest settings on the coilovers). XXR 962 18x7.5" rims in gunmetal with 215/35-18 TOYO tyres. Also i have changed both the front bumper, rear bumper, side skirts, eletrical folding mirrors, and hood from stock to facelift. I have also changed the foglights to the super-rare ones from Germany. I have also put on a low wing, and a rear window visor 2x0/1 Gauge cables from front battery to the battery in the 'spare-wheel well'. I put fuse holders behind the rear seats since the cables weren't long enough. But they are also fused 15cm from the batteries I put a fusebox behind one of the "walls" I built in the trunk, which only needs 1 cable in (I used 4 gauge), and then you have 12 fuse holders for lights, fans, relays etc. In the picture it isn't done, but you can see the relays for remote to the amplifiers and fans. Before and after pictures of the wiring in the engine bay, I have upgraded TB3 for better charging. Also, the plexiglass with the fuseholders on is hinged to the air intake, so that i have easy access to the cars original fusebox. Here's also a project i have been fiddeling with for a while now, REINFORCING the doors, since they were vibrating like f*ck, even though i crossover my front stages HPF at 100hz 12db/oct. I dont know what its called in english, but the metal plates are no-rust ones, fastened to the door metal with rivnuts and bolts, i also have sealing profile on the back. then i cut out some mdf rings which are both screwed and glued to the plates. Then everything was painted with hammerite paint. So water is no problem, and its solid as hell. I have also soldered XT60 contacts to the speakers, so that removing the door panels is still as easy as before. Changed ALL of the interior (dashboard, speedometer floor mat, hat shelf, seats, plastic panels, steering wheel, center console, seatbelts etc..) to black leather from a car at the junkyard, got everything (also exterior styling) for about 250$ so it was a steal in other words Door panels after alot of work, with mdf, pleather, glue, screwing and so on Tweeters mounted in the air intakes on the sides, yes, its a solid and good mount. And YES, theese tweeters are huge, and plays LOUD. The air intake behind is sealed shut with abs plastic and tec7 Biltema AGM 95ah battery in the spare tire well, with "custom" battery terminals, and homemade battery box, the well is deadened with silent coat How the trunk looks now, and yes, the rear lights are also tinted. This project specifically was a lot of work, and a pain in the ass to build. Under the false floor with 2 fans, i have placed 3 Digital Designs amplifiers, and all of them have 0/1 gauge + and - even the amp for the tweeters, its overkill, i know, but thats how i roll And a little about the sound system: All the cable lugs are pressed on with a hydraulic 16 ton cable press, and then heatshrinked. SPEAKERS: - 4x DD VO M8 (two in each front door) - 2x DD VO B2 bullet tweeters (one on each side of the dashboard) - 2xGZHW30X 12" woofers in a bandpass enclosure designed by bassbrothers in Norway (I'm gonna switch theese out for a single DD REDLINE 815 in the future) HEADUNIT - Pioneer DEH-80PRS, with active crossovers and built in DSP. AMPLIFIERS - DD M3B monoblock for the subwoofer(s) (3400wrms@1ohm) - DD SS2A for the midrange (2x600wrms@2ohm) - DD A2 for the tweeters (2x120wrms@4ohm) THINGS I HAVE DONE TO THE CAR: Exterior: -Painted the whole car in 2014, in the same color as original (dark green/black metallic) -Facelift VR4 front bumper -Facelift VR4 grille -Facelift VR4 rear bumper -Facelift VR4 side skirts -Facelift Hood (higher in the middle) -Facelift Taillights (tinted black) -Glx rear wing (deleted brake light) -Facelift side mirrors (rewired so that they fold in when i lock the car) -Dual foglight (rare) -New exhaust tip -Nippon rear window visor -Changed all turn signals from orange glass to clear ones. ------------------------------------------ Interior: -Facelift black dashboard -High resolution speedometer -Black leather seats with eletric adjustment -Black leather steering wheel -Black floor carpet -Black rear deck, with black brake light housing -Rebuilt doors to fit 2x8" speakers. -Installed dome lights for each rear door, that light up on each side when door is opened ------------------------------------------ -XXR 962 18x7.5" ET38 Wheels -Toyo proxes T-1 215/35R18 -Torx wheel lug nuts -Cusco vacanza Coilovers ------------------------------------------ THINGS I'M PLANNING/WILL DO TO THE CAR: -Change all dashlight bulbs to white LED (on its way in the mail) -Changing tires to 225/40-18 (have new ones laying around) -Wiring the double fog lights so that the outer ones come on with high beam (tried this before, wired everything right with a relay, but ended up frying the etacs... Wtf) -Completing the sound system -Sound deadening the whole car -Switching out the steering wheel to either a original MoMo, or an evo -LED brake-, plate-, park- and foglights -New pedals (clutch, brake, gas) -New gear knob -New registration plates -Wheel spacers Etcetc Audio Wise: -new H/O alternator -new subwoofer in a ported enclosure -etcetc Keep in mind that this project has been ongoing for the last 3 years, all this didnt happen in a day. All critique, positive and negative is welcome I might as well excuse myself for bad english in advance, I'm from Norway, so yeah, thats why This thread is almost a copy-paste from TGC (thegalantcenter), but here I will post mainly about car audio. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Looks nice. I don't personally agree with the placement of your tweeters, as it doesn't fully cover the air vent and messes with my OCD. But it's your build and not mine. Everything else still looks good to me. Keep doing it! SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzt Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 As said before, both positive and negative critique is more than welcome here so thank you, sir! As for the tweeters, that was the best place i could fit them as they are f*kin' huge, haha.. In the future, i might try on some fiberglassing, but as for now, it's a snug fit, and it does the job. That picture was also kind of "under construction". The vents are divided into an upper and lower part, whereas the upper one is for the side windows. It looks way better now, and it isnt uneven like it was on the picture. I also managed to "push" the tweeter a bit more into the dash, so it sits more flush, and is secured with steel brackets behind, which it screws into This is how it looks on both sides of the dash now If you look at the photo of my leather interior in my first post, you can see how the vents originally look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Doing somewhere nice work car looks really nice. will be following this build to see how it goes. Keep up the good work man. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzt Posted October 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 Thank you sir Update Changed a steering ball-joint(?) not sure what its called in english... This is the only thing I had to do on the EU-control (have to do it every 2 years here, if you dont, you will most likely loose your plates) after 40 000 kilometers on the road I've had a small issue with the speakers up front. When i turn it up loud, the door panels had a tendency to "play along" with the music. So I reinforced it a little, and used mdf-rings and galvanized plates to volt the speakers right to the door metal. I used rivnuts and bolts to bolt the metal plate to the door metal, then i cut out a hole, and glued/screwed the mdf rings to the plate. Behind, i put sealing profile to make it air tight. And finally i painted it all with hammerite to make the mdf waterproof and to make it look a little better. Since the door panels aren't flat, but angled a little inwards at the bottom, i had to cut it to the right angle with a jigsaw (not recomended since it was a pain in the ass) Im going to make a new moisture barrier soon with the blue plastic they use in houses, and then I will use butyl-tape to fasten it Bought some XT60 connectors and soldered them onto the speaker wires to make it easier to take on and off the door panels XT60 connectors on, and I've taped all the wires in the door with tesa-tape to minimize noise (wires + metal + vibration = nooooise) I also used the tesatape on all door clips fpr the same reason Xt60 connector on tweeter Since one of the lenses on the lights in the bumper fell of while I was driving one day, I made new ones for both sides with plexiglass and tec7. Switched from clear to orange turn signals, not sure what I like best though... Inputs? daydreaming.. Made a plexiglass-panel under the cd-player to house a voltmeter and the bassknob. Painted it black on the backside to make a "mirror-effect" Pic of the car Flat tire about an hour from home.. Had to spend a whole day that weekend to get someone to drive me home, so I could get the spare wheel Very messy update.. Sorry about that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmr Meg Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 another norwegian :D haha awsome build, looking nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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