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power requirements for soundqubed 1200.2 and 2200.2


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I recently ordered a soundqubed HDC 3.15 D1, (thanks to helpful recommendations from members here), and am hung up on which amp to order. I was warned a 2000 watt amp would require full electrical upgrades. I believe I'm currently running the stock 117 amp alternator (will confirm that soon) in my 98 jeep cherokee with a gm-d8604 amp to four coax speakers. I will be upgrading my battery cables and alternator cables to 1 awg soon. If I went with the q1-2200.2 what would be the best but cheapest way to power that? I've looked into h.o. alternators but I'm not sure. Additional batteries? I know the HDC 3.15 can take more but how much power would the q1-1200.2 require and what minimum electrical upgrades would I need for that? Any other amp suggestions for the HDC 3,15 with minimal electrical upgrades needed? Thanks for all the help, I'm trying to search for box plans myself, but any advice on that is welcome too.

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I have two hdc3-12s that I was running off of a q2200.1 at 1 ohm with no electrical upgrades besides the big three. It worked fine for me. But you could tell the sub could take MOAR power. They are still stiff as shit. I had them in most of last spring and summer. I got it all ripped out now building a new box with sound proofing and redoing my highs. You can get away with the 2200 on stock but bigger alt and more batteries will help to keep the voltage a little more stable. I also remember AMI customs saying he was running the 2200 in his wife car on stock electrical. And it was at 1/2 ohm with no problem

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Thanks guys. Should be getting the sub delivered by tomorrow was really hoping the alt would suffice if i added a battery so happy to hear that. I'm thinking an xs d3400 in the back and maybe upgrading under the hood if needed. I was already planning on the Big 3 so that's good. Any suggestions on type/size of battery?

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have x2 10s.. Def can take more power.

HU: Pioneer DMH-Z5350BT

Mids & Highs: ML280.3, ML700.3, ML1800.3 Mille Legend Series 3 way

Lows: x3 JL Audio 12TW3 powered by JL Audio RD1500/1 

Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable

Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120mil
DSP: AudioControl DM 810

Project Build Log

Click here: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee SQ Build to see the build progress.

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With a D1 set-up, you will be limited to .5OHM or 2OHM. If you decide to run at .5OHM you may need to beef up your electrical. You can always try and see if you can handle what you've got first and do the minimal upgrades like the big 3.

Just know... If you decide on getting an alternator for your vehicle, they can take 3-4 weeks to get depending on the vehicle and who you go with. So it's good to plan ahead for that purchase.

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Thanks guys. Should be getting the sub delivered by tomorrow was really hoping the alt would suffice if i added a battery so happy to hear that. I'm thinking an xs d3400 in the back and maybe upgrading under the hood if needed. I was already planning on the Big 3 so that's good. Any suggestions on type/size of battery?

what are you running under the hood.... standard lead acid?.... you shouldnt run an agm and lead acid together they dont charge the same.... you want to upgrade the under hood battery first and see how the system does and then add a second battery..... most of the D series XS batterys look like they will supply enough power on their own..... but still with AGM's you want to do under hood first then a second

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I had 2 hdc312 on a brx2400 with big 3 done and 2 group 31s in the back and never dropped below 13.6 on stock alt. Also I was running at .5 but probably above 1 after box rise

all depends what alt you have running OEM.

If you never dropped under 13.6, your rear bats where not doing anything, you where not making any power, or your OEM alt was doing some work.

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