Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 I don't know what ur main battery AH rating is but if u have a 55 AH (amp hour) rated battery and add a second battery for ur amp rated at 100 ah add the ratings together it's 155 total AH now factor in ur 160 amp alt and a rough charging voltage of 14v and "resting" voltage of 12.8 my app calculations says u can handle about 3100 Assuming u have a 55 ah battery with ur 160 amp alt u can handle 2200 watts as of today with out second battery. If it was me I would just add a second battery in ur vehical close to the amp. Someone else with more experience in this area might chime in and give u the same or better plan/answer. Thank you that is great to know, could you find out what my max wrms would be with the 240a alt and two 110ah capacity at 20hz rate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 I don't know what ur main battery AH rating is but if u have a 55 AH (amp hour) rated battery and add a second battery for ur amp rated at 100 ah add the ratings together it's 155 total AH now factor in ur 160 amp alt and a rough charging voltage of 14v and "resting" voltage of 12.8 my app calculations says u can handle about 3100 Assuming u have a 55 ah battery with ur 160 amp alt u can handle 2200 watts as of today with out second battery. If it was me I would just add a second battery in ur vehical close to the amp. Someone else with more experience in this area might chime in and give u the same or better plan/answer. Are you factoring in the current consumed by the vehicle itself to run excluding the system? Usually factory Alts are built to run that load and not very much more at all. My rule of thumb on a factory alt no matter the batteries added(they can't charge themselves) is 1000 watts after that an high output alt should really be invested in. No one likes burning up gear do to low voltage. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 You likely won't experience any audible difference just from upgrading your electrical. Upgrading your alt will mean you have more amperage to provide your amplifiers meaning they are more likely to be able to provide what they're rated for. As for running at .5ohm, your alt should have no problem supporting the extra 100-200w that you're going to get from your amp. Can your amp support it? Why make an inefficient Class D amp even more inefficient by wiring it lower, for little to no gain in output power, and more excess heat? I personally would suggest buying an amp that puts out the power you want at 2ohm if you'regoing to buy subs that your only wiring options are .5, 2, or 8ohms. The amp will be more efficient and last much longer Wow there's only a few hundred watt difference with going from 1ohm to .5? I would love to find something that'll run 3k at 2 ohm but im just trying to work with what I already got without having to start all over. Throwing in a alt, another 15, and a box is a lot cheaper all together then buying all of that and a amp that will do what I want at 2 ohm haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 And I should add that my amp is a sq2200.2 pushing a hdc315. So if I went from this current setup and bought my alt, Batts, and a nother hdc3 and wired to .5 I won't experience much of a increase in sound? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 The benefit of wiring lower really only comes if you are trying to combat major rise issues and then you have other problems you should deal with anyways(your box sucks). Really though for daily there is no benefit at all to wiring lower and it is harder on everything involved. Really I would just buy two new subs and wire to 1 ohm in this situation. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 And I should add that my amp is a sq2200.2 pushing a hdc315. So if I went from this current setup and bought my alt, Batts, and a nother hdc3 and wired to .5 I won't experience much of a increase in sound? You would notice an increase. I would get another 2200 to go with the extra sub you want to add, then you'd notice a huge difference. And you wouldn't have to wire to .5 ohm That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 The benefit of wiring lower really only comes if you are trying to combat major rise issues and then you have other problems you should deal with anyways(your box sucks). Really though for daily there is no benefit at all to wiring lower and it is harder on everything involved. Really I would just buy two new subs and wire to 1 ohm in this situation. Where do I learn on how to check my impedance rise? I have a dmm. Thank you for your help, maybe someday I'll just have to save up for a hdc418 or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 You likely won't experience any audible difference just from upgrading your electrical. Upgrading your alt will mean you have more amperage to provide your amplifiers meaning they are more likely to be able to provide what they're rated for. As for running at .5ohm, your alt should have no problem supporting the extra 100-200w that you're going to get from your amp. Can your amp support it? Why make an inefficient Class D amp even more inefficient by wiring it lower, for little to no gain in output power, and more excess heat? I personally would suggest buying an amp that puts out the power you want at 2ohm if you'regoing to buy subs that your only wiring options are .5, 2, or 8ohms. The amp will be more efficient and last much longer Wow there's only a few hundred watt difference with going from 1ohm to .5? I would love to find something that'll run 3k at 2 ohm but im just trying to work with what I already got without having to start all over. Throwing in a alt, another 15, and a box is a lot cheaper all together then buying all of that and a amp that will do what I want at 2 ohm haha. Just take it one step at a time. Get your electrical solid first (biggest hairpin alternator you can fit, direct replacement AGM up front, and a group 31 or larger in the back, and the proper size/amount of wire for your current carrying capabilities), then worry about subs and amps and enclosures. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 And I should add that my amp is a sq2200.2 pushing a hdc315. So if I went from this current setup and bought my alt, Batts, and a nother hdc3 and wired to .5 I won't experience much of a increase in sound?You would notice an increase.I would get another 2200 to go with the extra sub you want to add, then you'd notice a huge difference. And you wouldn't have to wire to .5 ohm What I'm afraid though of is buying another amp and killing off the new alternator. I feel like if Im barely getting buy with a 160a and 1 2200 that a 240a alt couldn't support two 2200s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 You likely won't experience any audible difference just from upgrading your electrical. Upgrading your alt will mean you have more amperage to provide your amplifiers meaning they are more likely to be able to provide what they're rated for. As for running at .5ohm, your alt should have no problem supporting the extra 100-200w that you're going to get from your amp. Can your amp support it? Why make an inefficient Class D amp even more inefficient by wiring it lower, for little to no gain in output power, and more excess heat? I personally would suggest buying an amp that puts out the power you want at 2ohm if you'regoing to buy subs that your only wiring options are .5, 2, or 8ohms. The amp will be more efficient and last much longer Wow there's only a few hundred watt difference with going from 1ohm to .5? I would love to find something that'll run 3k at 2 ohm but im just trying to work with what I already got without having to start all over. Throwing in a alt, another 15, and a box is a lot cheaper all together then buying all of that and a amp that will do what I want at 2 ohm haha.Just take it one step at a time. Get your electrical solid first (biggest hairpin alternator you can fit, direct replacement AGM up front, and a group 31 or larger in the back, and the proper size/amount of wire for your current carrying capabilities), then worry about subs and amps and enclosures. Haha you're right, I just never considered upgrading my alt before and now that I am it has open up a whole nother world of possibilities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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