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AMM-1 Doesn't seem accurate, anyone else?


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cabin gain and impediance rise play a huge factor

Uh what? Why would cabin gain play any role in amplifier output?

in the video tony D made when the amm1 was just rolling out he explained so much things including testing with a window up/down.... doors open.... everything would change the output and power factor..... remember this is a real world test.... everything plays a roll in the outcome

a box and amp in your car might make 500watts and in another car make 600watts just from the cabin size and acustics

Edited by MotorCityFats13
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Impedance GREATLY varies with frequency.

Here's one of my XL12's just raw.

35ohms!

XL12RawImpedance_zps0b557636.jpg

Here is my system impedance with the doors closed:

XL12InboxDoorClosedImpedance_zpsf8f2f786

Again with the door open.

Big difference between all the difference scenarios.

XL12InboxDoorOpenImpedance_zps639dcd52.j

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200 watts from a 600wrms amp @ 1 ohm that has a 2 or 3X impedance rise seems normal to me.

Its a huge shell shocker for people that "clamp amps" and say look at my 600wrms amp making 1400 watts rms because they never measure how clean the signal is and the amp is clipping so hard the mosfets about to explode.

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i have an AMM1 and have tested several amps. I have just chalked it up as a BS tool. I've tried different wire sizes, different subs and all results were horrible. I metered the Sony radio with the "built in amp" and it yielded 1 watt on a 4Ω speaker then I put a 2Ω JBL speaker and it yielded 1 watt. I metered a Soundstream 2k and it yielded 500 watts on 2 DC Level 4 D1 subs wired to 1Ω. I tried one sub wired down to .5Ω to account for any sort of rise and it yielded 300 watts. these are just the most disappointing results. There are very few AMM1 owners as a whole so it hard to get any sort of trouble shooting or support. Since I install for a shop I thought I'd use this heck out of this thing but I can't b/c it simply just doesn't do what it's suppose to do. just simply reading voltage is a failure unless you get the exact wires with the exact polarity correct when probing for your reading. if polarity is backwards on a normal DMM it'll just put a "-" to indicate the probes are backwards while the AMM1 just displays nothing so you don't even know it's backwards, you'd just assume it's the wrong wires.

if nothing changes, nothing changes

You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know

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