mjeezy Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Hello, so im new to the forum and wasn't sure where to put this post. I've always used this site to make decisions based on other peoples posts and seems to have trustworthy advice from my first setup at 300watts rms to 1000watts now im sitting at 3000watts rms (well maybe 2800watts rms). Anyway, I for the most part have been working and installing my system alone (i prefer to learn through experience than paying for professionals Im a sucker for learning and understanding). I do not plan on going beyond 3000watts with the current vehicle since my goal as been 2500-3200 watts rms. Alright so thats the background now the dilemma I have. -I have a 2004 Volvo S60 with a 120 stock alt (I planned on upgrading the alternator but if you arent aware upgrading a Volvo alt to a H/O alternator is asking for a beefy bill so that will remain stock until I switch cars 2-3 years from now) -I do not have the big three upgrade since the battery is located in the trunk and I just decided not to get the upgrade done since it would be about 5-8 times the cost for my particular vehicle. -I have a NVX xpld3k amp which i hope to get atleast 2500-2800 watts rms from it @ 1 ohm. -I recently got a great deal for a xs power v3400 which I used to replace my stock battery (only size that will fit stock location). -Lastly I have stock car audio system with no upgrades on mids and highs (car had amazing stock system already I believe it came with premium sound or something). So in summary I have a stock 120 amp alternator, NVX xpld3k amp, and xs power v3400 agm battery as my main car battery with everything stock except dual 12 subwoofers (nvx vcw 124) and amp. Question: Would it be of any benefit if I bought a second/multiple battery(ies) keeping everything listed above constant and if so what battery would you recommend? I was looking into either another d3400 or; d6500, d2700, or d3100. I only play my system with the engine on and NEVER play it with the engine off (I have a kill switch for the amp and always turn the amp off before I turn off the engine). I just want to be confident that I am giving my amp enough power (to produce 2500-3000watts) during times I play full tilt. With the restrictions I listed above will it be beneficial to add the second battery or would the benefits be so small that its best I maintain what I have now. My budget is $400. In addition, there will be no more than 10 feet 1/0 gauge wire used for all runs of wire (from main car battery to secondary battery to amp)for both ground and power wire combined. If not beneficial would there be alternatives with the listed restrictions outside of the budget if so what would they be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Wow, that's a lot to read. Welcome to SMD!! I would do the big 3. At least 1/0 from alt to battery. Fuse at alt and fuse at battery in case of pinched cable from an accident. Then 1/0 from motor to frame and 1/0 from battery negative to frame. Adding more batteries wild help short term playing with engine running, but the batteries will drain if you are taking out more than you are putting in. An alternator upgrade would be ideal. Running with stock alt this way will keep it at max output and kill it sooner than normal. It might last 6 months or a year or two, but it will not last the life of the car this way. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeezy Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Thank you for the response. It looks like I should just keep the car the way it is since your recommendations are a bit costly for my particular vehicle as I had stated in the original post. Thank you very much again for the advice. Looks like I have to figure out what I will do with this $400 regarding car audio then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 If you got $400 to spend and you're not wanting to do big 3 or ho alt then I'd suggest sound deadening you could get a nice big pack of secondskin for that price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3vil Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 ^^^ proper sound deadening can have a huge impact on not just the quality of the music in car, but also the perceived loudness by muffling exterior noises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 Buy a longer chunk of 1/0 to to run from the front to the battery. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 I would do big 4 in 1/0 and then save up for another d3400 that should help and u could always transfer the wire and equipment to your next ride. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 I would do big 4 in 1/0 and then save up for another d3400 that should help and u could always transfer the wire and equipment to your next ride. What's the 4th step to the upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeezy Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Thank you all for the replies, I will go with the sound deadening route since my ride as I mentioned above is not so friendly when it comes to modifications. I just wanted to make sure getting a second battery maybe d3400 would be a waste due to my poor electrical setup. with running 1/0 guage from the front to the back are you saying running it from the positive lead upfront or from the alternator? I just have a few restrictions with my car therefore getting to the alternator with my auto experience is something I would not want to do (trust me volvos in the US arent the best cars to modify). Now with sound deadening, should i do the entire trunk including spare tire location or specific areas? I have already deadened the trunk lid and roof of the trunk, all that is left is the sides and the bottom (spare tire location). Thanks again!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 With one of the big packs of deadener from secondskin you could cover your trunk completely, your doors, and at least most of the roof. So it depends on how much coverage you'd like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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