Csprak1990 Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Ok so I've looked around a bit and was just wondering if I'm doing this right. I multiply the supposed Rms wattage with the impedance,(2500x1) = 2500 and then find the square root which is 50 and match that voltage to the voltage on the amp through the speakers output? Amp is a saz 2.5k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lakeshow94 Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 yup. That's how you do it with a dmm. It's never fully accurate though. A dd-1 or oscope would be much better. But I can't say I haven't tuned by dmm before. Eventually your equipment gets expensive enough that it just seems worth it to spend 100-150 on a dd1 1999 Lexus GS 300 Pioneer DEH-80PRS Singer 240 Amp (Will be installed later) Northstar Group 31 & 24 Sundown SCV-4000 Rockford T400-4 2 12" CT Sound Meso CT Sounds 6.5 Meso Components CT Sounds Tropo 6.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Csprak1990 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 With that said I figure id see how far up on the gain that allows for and just scoot it back a bit. But I just shelled out another 500 bucks for a new alternator and so I'm not gonna be getting a dd1 for a few month or so. But I'll be getting the cc1 soon. Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Ok so I've looked around a bit and was just wondering if I'm doing this right. I multiply the supposed Rms wattage with the impedance,(2500x1) = 2500 and then find the square root which is 50 and match that voltage to the voltage on the amp through the speakers output? Amp is a saz 2.5k The only problem is how do you know the signal is clean and that your head unit is at its max undistorted volume? Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoove Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 I only use a DMM for setting if the amp power when its more than the rating of the speakers. Example : my 4 channel is like 400w per channel @ 4ohm. And I'm running a 4ohm 100w speaker on each channel. That way I know the signal better be clean. Every thing else is DD-1. 2 Team Fi 15's v1 2 DD M5's 970amps of Alt 6th order blowthroughThe truck Blowthrough build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155555-smooves-1996-chevy-ext-cab-c1500-slow-build/The 350z build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170694-smooves-2003-nissan-350z/ My FB page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Smooves-Car-Audio-and-performance/719746144805343 Team Fi Audio http://www.ficaraudio.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Csprak1990 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Well thing is I don't know if head unit is distorting or not. But I've done Lots of homework and can only do as much as my wallet allows for. The head unit is a pioneer avhx-2700 ddin. With shitty 2v outputs. The head unit goes to 40 max. No bass boost, no loud, no unecessary extras. I've done the head unit gain by ear and it almost seems to never distort or sound distorted at almost max volume. But that said it probably is distorting so I've never exceeded 70% . So about 23-27 on volume knob. I'm not tryna be perfect here although I wish I could. Just doing what I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Csprak1990 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Also used tech n9nes special effect cd as music source. Sounds clean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lakeshow94 Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Id get the dd1 before cc1 but that's just me. Don't get me wrong it is nowhere near the best method but what I would do is frequently check your subs. Make sure the dustcap isn't getting too hot as well as make sure you dont smell any coil burn. If you dont have either of those there isn't much to worry about. Part of the reason we buy the subs we do is the durability. A dual subwoofer may fry in seconds, ive seen some of these spl subs take some abuse and keep on playing. 1999 Lexus GS 300 Pioneer DEH-80PRS Singer 240 Amp (Will be installed later) Northstar Group 31 & 24 Sundown SCV-4000 Rockford T400-4 2 12" CT Sound Meso CT Sounds 6.5 Meso Components CT Sounds Tropo 6.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headshothills Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Check the DD-1 Map in Tools forums and see if you can find someone close to you that has a DD-1.. Although I tried the same, found a guy, PM'ed him, never got a response. Found another guy, PM'ed him and we started chatting, but his schedule never allowed him to meet up, he kept blowing me off, so I said screw it and ordered one for myself. I need to add myself to that map, but its worth a shot... 2018 F350 Platinum Hostile w/ Toyo 37 MT's Big 3 Gately Audio 4 - 8" Enclosure B2 Audio XM8's SounDigital Evo 5000.1 2ohm SounDigital Evo 1200.4 4ohm AudioControl DM-608 PAC AmpPro - Optical Out Kleinn Demon Train Horn Viper DS4+ Smart Start Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhunt94 Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Just curious, but why are you buying a CC-1 and waiting on buying the DD-1? If it were me, I'd buy the DD-1 first. 2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside250 Mechman AlternatorSky High Car Audio Big 3 XS Power D3400Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kitRockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcpRockford Fosgate T400-4DC Audio Lvl 4 12"Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" componentRockford Fosgate Punch 6x8Pioneer AVH-P2300DVDSMD Volt Meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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