Oneslowmonte Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 unfortunately I did not take any pics of that set up, it was pre smart phone so I usually just wanted to get jobs like that outta the way. you could even face subs forward and port up through the rear deck. That is always a possible solution, thats how I had my car for the longest and always had good numbers. there are so many possibilities with your system I am sure you are going to get a lot of good advice on here all with different ideas play around and find what works best. Its a race won by slow hard work not a sprint. Yes sir! Everything has been chilling in my closet for a few months and since it's getting warmer I want to knock it out. I'll have to go look in the trunk again and see where the deck is. There are a few ledges that kill the height possibilities til mid trunk I think but I'd have enough room to put a port in giving I can squeeze the subs in that far. Definitely appreciate the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oneslowmonte Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 you have 8 cubes, assuming youre doing a single layer box with a double baffle. Factor in sub disp, and youre looking around 7.6 cubes. With a decent port, lets say that eats up 3/4 of a cube.Without any bracing youll have near 7 cubes net, but possibly a bit less.As for port area.. if its forward facing, your max height is 16.5 (with a slot). Absolute max port width is 5.75", but i dont like playing THAT close. lets say 5.25" of width.Basic multiplication gives you a max port area of ~86sqin.This *could* work, but itll be tight, in almost every possible way.Another thing to consider is actually fitting your box into the trunk opening. Many times, the opening is less wide and shorter than the actual trunk. As a result, you may need to either build in the trunk (kreg jig is sex) or cut down on dims somewhere. Unfortunately, you really cannot cut down on space.My advice is to invest in a chiropractor, once this build is complete.Good luck Lol yea most definitely will be a sore guy afterwards. Luckily I'm small and agile and with the looks of how the kreg jig works I'm hoping it won't be to horribly painful. I can make the box longer to get more space I just wanted to keep it off the trunk a little to get to the tail lights if needed which isn't that bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Bateman Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 I did a system that had 3 15" subs in a monte, I did a 4th order with the port blowing up through the rear deck, sounded great for 3 w6 15" subs, of course this was 2003 or 4 i think. when the subs were still black and made in the USA If you're going for SPL, this seems like the best bet. A bandpass box and a ported box have the same efficiency, if the box size and the bandwidth is identical. Where bandpass has the edge here is that you can put 100% of the subwoofers output into the cabin. Basically the ported box is going to waste a lot of energy rattling your deck lid, pressurizing the trunk, etc. The bandpass will only pressurize the cabin. This is the same reason that tiny cars post big SPL numbers; if there's less air to move, that raises The Schroeder Frequency and that raises your SPL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 I did a system that had 3 15" subs in a monte, I did a 4th order with the port blowing up through the rear deck, sounded great for 3 w6 15" subs, of course this was 2003 or 4 i think. when the subs were still black and made in the USA If you're going for SPL, this seems like the best bet. A bandpass box and a ported box have the same efficiency, if the box size and the bandwidth is identical. Where bandpass has the edge here is that you can put 100% of the subwoofers output into the cabin. Basically the ported box is going to waste a lot of energy rattling your deck lid, pressurizing the trunk, etc. The bandpass will only pressurize the cabin. This is the same reason that tiny cars post big SPL numbers; if there's less air to move, that raises The Schroeder Frequency and that raises your SPL. BUHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAh wow just wow do you really believe the nonsense that you are saying? Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Not sure if troll or dumb ass Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Not sure if troll or dumb ass dumbass unless he is trolling a lot of posts Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 LMAO We got a winnar!!! SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
im_quagmire Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 I did a system that had 3 15" subs in a monte, I did a 4th order with the port blowing up through the rear deck, sounded great for 3 w6 15" subs, of course this was 2003 or 4 i think. when the subs were still black and made in the USA If you're going for SPL, this seems like the best bet. A bandpass box and a ported box have the same efficiency, if the box size and the bandwidth is identical. Where bandpass has the edge here is that you can put 100% of the subwoofers output into the cabin. Basically the ported box is going to waste a lot of energy rattling your deck lid, pressurizing the trunk, etc. The bandpass will only pressurize the cabin. This is the same reason that tiny cars post big SPL numbers; if there's less air to move, that raises The Schroeder Frequency and that raises your SPL. WHAT!?!?!? But What Do I Know? 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 3.8 JVC KD-R975BTS Clarion EQS746 Kenwood P907PS Ascendant Audio 12" Havoc v.1 Ampere Audio 2000.1 MB Quart Onyx 800.4 XS Power D3400 - Hood XS Power D975 - Trunk Singer 240A Sky High OFC 0 & 4 gauge Kno Knoise Kolossus Deadener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 anyone see the 3 15's in a 4th in the trunk part? Am i mis reading that? Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 anyone see the 3 15's in a 4th in the trunk part? Am i mis reading that?lol shit.. i had to wall to fit 2 On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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