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Veteran Box Builders


cgrez33

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So I have a pretty general question.

I know alot of guys now a days design and build boxes based on programs and plugging in numbers etc.

But several SPL Veterans and other guys tend to just go at it, most never use a program or some haven't even heard of it lol.

Does this just come from experience in doing it so long?

Current Build:

1999 Tahoe #ComingSoon

Previous Build(s):

Crossfire Magnum

5k Pontiac G6 GT

 

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For a basic box paper and a pencil is fine.

Unless you want to be sitting there for hours doing some elaborate design, a program to "just punch in numbers" is going to be a lot quicker..

Besides you have to know the numbers you are punching in.

Also even while using some sort of program you still gotta bust out the pencil and paper to get displacements figured out for any 45s or other bracing, or draw it in sketchup (which for me takes years and not worth it).

 

 

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With just about anything, there are always more than one way to reach success. The way a lot of the SPL veterans got there was through significant trial & error.

Using software can definitely eliminate a lot of trial and error, but it still requires significant experience to be able to properly interpret the results.

At this point I wouldn't even consider designing a box with the use of modeling software. That's just how I do it though, people have to do what works best for them.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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I usually crunch the numbers on paper and then verify with a box calculator. I won't buy a driver without crunching the numbers first. Figuring it all out is the fun part.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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I do volume and tuning calculations on the computer then back to graph paper to design the box.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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I determine how much internal volume I want. I use a predetermined amount of port area. So next I figure out how long the port needs to be to tune where I want to. For example I just built a box for my Sundown X15. I knew that I wanted exactly 4.25 cubes after port and woofer displacement. I knew I was going to use a single 8 inch aeroport which is 50.24sqin of port. That gives me 11.82sqin of port per cubic foot of volume.

Now I use a calculator telling it that I want to use 1 8 inch aero, have 4.25 cubes of volume, and I want to be tuned to 34.5hz. The calculator then says I need 21.75 inch long port from flare to flare to get this tuning. Now that I have my port length I figure out how much volume it will displace. Once I come up with that I add in the sub displacement and any bracing and get my total displacement figure.

I then move on to how much room I have to work with. Lets just say I have 40 inches wide, 18 inchez tall, and 20 inches deep. I figure out the combinations of those dimensions that will be my desired box volume and my displacement figure added together. Let's say that is 36.5 wide X 18 deep X 18 tall. When multiplying 1.5 inches is subtracted from each dimension since I use .75 inch wood. Those numbers give me 9528.75 in cubed. Next, I divide that number by 1728 (which is 12^3 number used for box volume) and I get 5.5cuft. Then I subtract my displacement from that which lets say is 1.25cft. That will give me exactly 4.25cubes, which is what I wanted. However, let's say that number were larger or smaller, then I would go back and adjust the box dimensions until my number is where I want it to be.

I won 2 NSPL Car class titles with boxes I designed this way as well as all the daily boxes I use and any I have designed for others.

That is my process. I do not like using a box calculator but I do rely on the port length calculator.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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I do not like using a box calculator but I do rely on the port length calculator.

This is what I've always done. Figure volumes and spaces myself and plug into a port length calculator, minor as possible adjustments from there. I do a lot of stealth systems and sometimes small compromises are the name of the game.

significant trial & error.

Cannot be stressed enough. Even today (with computer help) at the elite level it's almost never a "one and done" for those at top of the heap. And once you're loud, staying loud is a whole 'nother issue.

Static drops are my bag.

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