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Factory Integration Help...


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Just picked up a 2014 Dodge Durango R/T that has the 8.4 inch uConnect and i believe 9 speaker system. Ive been trying to research the best way to install my subs, amps and mids to the factory deck which has nav and all the bells. I have an AA3800.1, 2-HDC312'S, Nendo 1100.4 and pwx6 mids with ft1 tweets. Would the Audiocontrol LC6i help me in this or would i need to look into something else? Any help please!

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The LC6i will work however it only gives you 3 pairs of inputs/outputs (6 channels total), you have 9 channels you think.

How the lc6i works is it takes all 6 channels of the oem signal and sums them all together to give you a full pass output on all rca outputs.

Your going to need to research and find out how the speakers are wired in your vehicle.

It looks to be amplified with the amp in the left rear quarter panel, but from what I see you have left front, right front, left rear, right rear, center channel, and subwoofer.

So I'm assuming that the tweeters are crossed over passively with each door speaker and not done by the oem amp, if that is 100% the case the lc6i should work fine for you as long as you don't use the center channel as an input on the lc6i.

If the tweeters are being ran from the oem amp and crossed over actively by that amp or your going to want to sum the center channel with the rest of the channels your going to need more input channels so you can sum every channel together. So then the LC8i would be the ideal choice (which also sums all your channels together like the lc6i).

Ideally the LC8i would be the better choice since the goal is to input as many channels as possible to have them summed together for a full pass output signal to the amp(s).

Your other option if you wanted would be to go with a full fledged processor like the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3 or the Helix DSP.

Both those processors have 8 channel inputs, they will also allow you to accurately set your crossover points on each channel digitally and 100% accurately (something you cant do on an amplifier unless you have the SMD CC-1 tool), you will also get an extensive amount of EQ to tune it just how you like it along with time alignment, bandpass options, remote gain knob, and so many more things that the LC6/8i cant do, and all is done using a laptop.

Literately the only settings on your amp(s) you will have to adjust would be the gain, everything else just turn wide open on the amplifier.

So it really comes down to what you want to spend, and how much control over your stereo you want.

I will never install my own personal stereos again without using a processor just due to the lack of control you gain from them!

 

 

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Just bypass the favtory amp all together if you want to keep it simple...

It's for a 2012 but should still be the same

Connector info:

22 pin connector

left to right / top to bottom

pin 1 large black wire with orange stripe (assumed ground for the amp)

pin 2 white with gray stripe (bus input)

pin 3 white with orange stripe (bus input)

pin 4 not used

pin 5 not used

pin 6 green with blue stripe (bus input)

pin 7 green with orange stripe (bus input)

pin 8 gray with blue stripe (bus input)

pin 9 gray with orange stripe (bus input)

pin 10 not used

pin 11 not used

pin 12 not used

pin 13 not used

pin 14 gray with light green stripe (RH dash speaker +)

pin 15 gray with dark green stripe (RH dash speaker -)

pin 16 gray with yellow stripe (LH dash speaker +)

pin 17 gray with no stripe (LH dash speaker -)

pin 18 green with brown stripe (LH headliner speaker -)

pin 19 green with blue stripe (LH headliner speaker +)

pin 20 gray with white stripe (sub -)

pin 21 green with white stripe (sub +)

pin 22 large yellow wire with red stripe (assumed powerfor the amp)

16 pin connector

left to right / top to bottom

pin 1 gray with purple stripe (LH front door -)

pin 2 gray with yellow stripe (LH front door +)

pin 3 green with purple stripe (RH front door -)

pin 4 green with yellow stripe (RH front door +)

pin 5 green with brown stripe (sub +)

pin 6 gray with brown stripe (sub -)

pin 7 gray with dark green stripe (LH rear door +)

pin 8 gray with light green stripe (LH rear door -)

pin 9 green with yellow stripe (RH rear door -)

pin 10 green with gray stripe (RH rear door +)

pin 11 gray with no stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity...I left it stock)

pin 12 gray with orange stripe (center dash speaker, didn't check polarity.. I left it stock)

pin 13 yellow with gray stripe (RH headliner +)

pin 14 green with no stripe (RH headliner -)

pin 15 not used

pin 16 not used

__________________

2012 Durango Alpine System

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Thanks guys, im going to do a little more research and look into the lc8i. Definitely want to keep the factory deck and bypass the factory amp. Dont think ill need the 360 due to just not wanting to spend that kind of cash for roughly a simple install. Not going to use the center channel so i can exclude that

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Thanks guys, im going to do a little more research and look into the lc8i. Definitely want to keep the factory deck and bypass the factory amp. Dont think ill need the 360 due to just not wanting to spend that kind of cash for roughly a simple install. Not going to use the center channel so i can exclude that

the 6 should be suffice to do what you are looking for...you can do 2 in for 4 out or 4 in for 6 out...and plan on running new speaker wires also

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Thanks guys, im going to do a little more research and look into the lc8i. Definitely want to keep the factory deck and bypass the factory amp. Dont think ill need the 360 due to just not wanting to spend that kind of cash for roughly a simple install. Not going to use the center channel so i can exclude that

the 6 should be suffice to do what you are looking for...you can do 2 in for 4 out or 4 in for 6 out...and plan on running new speaker wires also
yes, ill be running all new speakers so i know ill have to run new speaker wire. Going to probably change out the pwx6's for 2 sets of components for front and rear
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2014, better make sure that you don't need a dummy load to get the OEM amp to output. gonna be hard to do what you want without a 360.3 or the like. even though most chrysler vehicles have 4 channels going into the amp, only rear really has control. you'll need to keep that in mind b/c of BT audio/hands free. i'd do some testing first before just thinking a LOC will be all you need.

if nothing changes, nothing changes

You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know

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