Three NVX VCW12's Box Build

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

how the hell the mail man got the enclouser to fit in a PO box?

They leave big boxes behind the counter and you have to talk to someone behind the counter to get it.

[audiofanaticz]

First of the 3 window braces cut, the 4th brace will need to be something slightly different due to the terminals which will be pictured later.

Just test fitting the window braces again.

Starting to glue, clamp, and nail them into the port.

Gluing, clamping, and nailing the port and braces into the box.

Gluing clamping, and nailing the other side panel.

Starting to go crazy clamping.

Went crazy clamping.

Next up is to make my own template for the SMD dual speaker box terminals so that I can flush mount them into the box and have a clean look.

Now my first attempt was to use the same oversized router bearing trick to make this template.

But from what I noticed the 1/4inch spiral bit that must be used with the oversized bearing flush trim bit melted the terminal a little bit.

So I had to rethink my game plan and changed a couple things.

Now I need to trim this smaller piece out 1/4inch bigger than the top piece which gives me nearly a perfect tight fit.

1/4inch larger all the way around, which is done with the large bearing on the flush trim bit.

Now I needed the center cutout of the terminal for the small piece of wood. Since I already melted the terminal mounting flange I removed it completely to make things easier when measuring.

The 2 piece template system for the SMD dual terminals is complete.

So how this works is you use template tape to stick the 1st template piece on the box where you want the terminals.

You then take a pattern bit and you flush the wood out inside the template 1/4inch deep (which is the thickness of the SMD terminal mounting flange).

Now you stick the 2nd template piece inside the first template piece. It is key that these fit inside each other tightly so that your terminal flange that you recessed is centered with the cutout of the terminal.

With the same pattern bit you go around the inside of the 2nd template piece, this time you need to go all the way through the wood.

[audiofanaticz]

Now you remove the template pieces and your left with a nice clean flush mounted cutout for the SMD dual speaker box terminals

Now you notice there is a 1/8 inch gap all the way around the terminal.

The gap is intentional so that when you carpet the box you can press the carpet down and behind the terminal.

This way when you put the terminal in the box after its carpeted you will not have to fight the carpet to push the terminal into place and have the carpet bind up.
The gap will barely be noticeable once carpeted.

Now back to that 4th window brace that I said needed to be different.

This one goes on the side panel with the terminal cutout.

So I need to make a template to allow the cutout of the terminal.

Making the templates to give me an outside cutout of the terminal hole.

Attaching one of my other window braces that I previously cut to give me a guide for the last brace.

The last template fully cut.

So from 1 window brace I made a second that is slightly different with the help of some homemade templates.

Time to start gluing it into place.

Remember always evenly spread your wood glue. Dont rely on pressure alone to give it a even spread.

The more glue the better, you want it to ooze out a little as you apply pressure.

Back to the gluing, clamping and nailing thing. Sadly I was only able to clamp these pieces in some spots.

Getting ready to put the other side brace in.

Again spreading the glue.

Clamping and nailing once again.

Break time, COORS!!

Since the front of the box is angled and I needed to apply glue to the front of everything I propped it up to make it level so the glue wouldnt all run down.

Again more even spreading of the glue, I cant get this point across enough because so many people dont do this.

Sure some may not have problems with strength not doing it, but I have seen bond issues in the past, so I like to remove any possibility for failure!

Since the front is angled that means my router bit will not cut the port out correctly unless I match the front angle to the router.

If I dont do this, the router will cut into the port way to far on the top and on the bottom it will not cut down far enough.

I used some heavy duty template tape for this, its clear with a read backing that gets pealed off. Its stupid strong.

This looks so weird..

[audiofanaticz]

Port is cut out.

I hit the wooden pieces I taped on my router with a hammer, the wood let go before the heavy duty template did.

It actually worked out well, if the tape would have let loose I would of most likely damaged the port slightly.

A couple pics of the box before I put the tops on.

Measuring out the tops to give me my lines to tell me where I need to nail, and also center lines for the woofer cutouts.

First baffle is already cut and just resting on the box, and 2nd flush mount baffle holes are cut as well.

Getting myself prepaired to glue and spread glue and put the 2nd baffle on.

Both baffles are now on and clamped.

Due to the front angle of the box I was not able to clamp from the outside front of the box, but I have several clamps through out the woofer holes to apply pressure.

At this point the exterior of the box is sanded to remove any glue that oozed out prior to carpeting to get a smooth finish.

I also painted the port black, along with the carpet grooves on the sides of the box.

Once the paint is dry I will start carpeting the box.

Which will probably happen tonight soon, so more pics to come tonight or tomorrow.

[SnowDrifter]

Dude you come up with the queerest ways to build boxes. A+

[audiofanaticz]

Painted the port.

Also painted the carpet seams just in case you cut to close you wont notice the wood.

This is the carpet seam around the port to give you a nice clean edge to cut, forgot to take a picture of this before paint.

Mask off the subwoofer hole cutouts along with the port cutout, and the terminal cutout so you dont get any spray adhesive inside the box.

Spraying the adhesive on the box and carpet, let it dry to the touch 15-25 minutes before applying the carpet to the box.

This shows the carpet pressed into the groove around the port for a clean cut.

Molding the carpet into the subwoofer hole cutouts.

All 4 sides of the box are wrapped with carpet.

Getting the side pieces sprayed with glue so they can be put on.

Molding the carpet into the hole for the SMD terminals.

Pressing the carpet into the outer seams.

[audiofanaticz]

Trimming the extra carpet off.

Carpeted the other side of the box.

Getting ready to prewire the SMD terminal cups. 12 pieces of Sundown silver tineed ofc 8awg wire.

The really is a lot of wire, maybe just a little overkill, but its what was wanted!

Box is done and ready for the subs.

Just a couple finished pics.

[_paralyzed_]

Can I stick my wiener in the port?

[bsneon98]

Brian you have some one the nicest cleanest MDF cuts ive seen on here. I like to see how you can use a couple basic tools to do some cool shit!

What template tape do you use? I found some double sided tape at home depot but its not worth the price at all for what it does.

[Nightshade]

While I love your work Brian I do not agree with the statement that you made about the aeroports needing to be the port diameter's length away from any side of the enclosure. I only build aeroported enclosures and have exclusively used these boxes for pure spl purposes. The rule of thumb that I personally follow is to keep the wall that is perpendicular to the port opening at least the port diameter's length away. I have never found by mounting close to a side or bottom wall of the enclosure to effect the output of one of my enclosures.

While it is suggested to mount the port this way I have not seen SPL output effected by it from testing either. Many SPL competitors follow the diameter from the perpendicular wall method with great success and a lot of times, especially when using 6" or larger ports it is impossible to mount the port as you suggested especially from the top or bottom of the enclosure.

I will just note that if you have ever seen Terry Brocks enclosure that he used in his CRX the port was only 1 or 2 inches from the top and bottom of the enclosure and was larger than 8" in diameter while doing over 160dB. This did not effect the SPL in his case. As far as sound quality is concerned, I have never heard a difference from this mounting of the port.