s5300 Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 Hey bass bros, coming for a bit of help today. Try not to hate on anything, I know some of the things I'm going to say aren't normally how we would go about things but I don't have too many supplies around for "smaller" things like this and he just wants it running any way possible. So little backstory - this is the absolute worst install I've ever seen, from a "professional" shop. He had the Jeep over here a few days ago but I didn't snap a pic, I'll try to when I get to fixing it. 4 AWG wiring kit installed - the company stripped a 4 pin trailer hitch and e-taped (and poorly at that) it to the wire (2&2) and used the female side into the amp afaik. It's all torn up now so doesn't matter. The RCA's terminals amp side are also broken off. Some terminals on his box are also broken, making me have to make a whole new termination point (normally this is obviously easy, but we'll get to why it's going to be kinda dumb) So this is what's up. The goal of this is to be a modular (removable) box & amp because well, Jeeps. He pretty much runs no top all the time and that's just asking for your shit to be stolen. As you can see, one of the terminals is completely broken off. Shitty shitty shitty. Also, banana terminals in bassworld kinda suck dick, for sub leads atleast IMO. So heres the plan. That to me looks like 16AWG maybe 14AWG zip wire (I use silicone all the time, so bigger jacket, so it's a bit hard for me to tell) but anyways, we're using a Soundstream PN1 650.D monoblock. It has 8 AWG inputs, wiring in parallel. We're bolting the amp to the box (yeah, I know but it's not like this is worth more than $200 all together) My thought was to take some 8AWG wire and solder both leads, so two pairs, and have that go straight to the amp, boom, sub/amp connection done. Silicone up all holes that are left behind by that shitty fitting and with a seam around the whole square cutout. Sound good? Please, please correct me if I'm making any mistakes. On to the power wire. Like I said, he has the pos/neg 4AWG wired to the back of the jeep. Amp has 8AWG inputs. My first thought was to just strip the wire and shave away until it fit. Now, the fucking amazon dealer sent us the wrong amp the first time, sent us a 5 channel 640D. Since my boy didn't have prime it was a fucking hassle for the turnaround too. I went away from the shaving the wire down idea because the 640D had staggered stacked inputs, but the 650D doesn't, just nice side by sides, so it could possibly still work. Somebody give me some input here. My next idea was to just intertwine and solder on some 8AWG to both leads and leave it at that. Would have to bring the iron out to the jeep, but that's not too much of a problem. Now here's where the magic of removeable-ness comes. I have all sorts of connectors for Hobby RC stuff as I re-sell wholesale online. XT60's, Deans, etc. However, since I don't exactly know how much power is going to be going through this (bad electrical setup) I want to be safe. So, my plan is to have the amp with 8AWG out leads in respective slots. On the ends of that, MALE US wall plugs. 110v plugs, whatever you want to call them. To be safe, one plug per lead (one whole plug for positive, one whole plug for negative) and then have, one the 4AWG power leads from his battery, the 8AWG spliced/soldered in leads with FEMALE 110V plugs, respective to the amp leads. and FINALLY to the RCA's. Yeah, they're fucking snapped off at the end. I'm trying to figure out just what happened to his setup, but he says he honestly doesn't remember. I really don't want to fuck with taking out his head unit (even thought it's JAMMED in there crooked from his fucked up installer, maybe I just should and buy all new wires) but it not, to make this easier cause he just wants this done, do you guys think I would have any signal problems if I just got new end terminals and crimped/soldered them on? I'm really hesitant to do that and honestly just wanted to put in new RCA's... but it might be hell to do either. One last mention! Regarding the 4AWG to 8AWG - I was looking at reducer blocks/distro blocks, but they all seemed pretty expensive for what they were and even hard to find singles or a double. It's all like a 1 to 3 for $15 some. THIS https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Bassik-Gauge-Distribution-Block/dp/B00XWBZ8GK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1468810211&sr=8-4&keywords=4+to+8+power+block looked like an option however... please give me some thoughts on it. Easier/a better idea than splicing in new leads? You tell me. Seriously haha. THANKS FOR EVERYTHING GUYS, LOVE YOU ALL. Until I can finally do my own build.. my poor 2/0 EB Flex is just depressed down in the basement.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s5300 Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Anybody have thoughts? Looks like I'm going to be installing Weds or Thurs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 I'd help you but your post is way longer than my attention span. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s5300 Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 I'd help you but your post is way longer than my attention span. I don't think it's that bad man. Basically, I have 4AWG power leads that I need to get to 8AWG + make them quickly removable from the amp. Is my best route just soldering some 8AWG on to the ends and add a good plug to both of those? Second, I have a pair of ruined RCA's. Would it be reliable to crimp/solder on new end plugs or just buy new ones, take out the stereo and route them in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08tahoe Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Maybe this will help http://www.google.com/search?q=4+gauge+to+8+gauge+reducer&hl=en&sa=X&as_q=&nfpr=&spell=1&ved=0ahUKEwj46Z6pr_7NAhVB3WMKHXE5AQUQvwUIGw https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0129E1KF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468890858&sr=8-1π=SL75_QL70&keywords=quick+connect+plugs I would say solder the rca's if your trying to save money. If not just get new ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s5300 Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Maybe this will help http://www.google.com/search?q=4+gauge+to+8+gauge+reducer&hl=en&sa=X&as_q=&nfpr=&spell=1&ved=0ahUKEwj46Z6pr_7NAhVB3WMKHXE5AQUQvwUIGw https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0129E1KF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468890858&sr=8-1π=SL75_QL70&keywords=quick+connect+plugs I would say solder the rca's if your trying to save money. If not just get new ones. I appreciate the help - but for the most part, I've looked in to all of this. See, the main problem is that I don't have any 4 gauge lying around and for the price of the reducers I could have a good bit of 8 gauge. I guess I'm trying to keep things pretty cheap. I pretty much need 8-12 gauge anyways for the sub leads to amp, so having that, I'm devising the best way to also get the amp power being modular. Also, the reason for even adding the 8gauge to the end of the 4, the 4 is too big to reasonably fit in a 110vac plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 What the hell is the 110v ac plug for, are you wiring a house? Do it right or not at all, This is a fire waiting to happen. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 I'm sure it could be rigged up some kind of way. Nobody here would tell you to though. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s5300 Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 What the hell is the 110v ac plug for, are you wiring a house? Do it right or not at all, This is a fire waiting to happen. I don't understand what you're saying. He HAS to have this thing easily removable. Plug and go. The plug is VERY safe for how small it is and that's the point. I guess I could even get locking ones? I've explained literally everything bad about this, but he wants it a certain way and I'm going to give him that in the safest and best way possible. If you thought that was a fire waiting to happen you should have seen the 4 cord trailer hitch shoddily e-taped to some 4 gauge wire with strands sticking out literally everywhere right next to +/-. I actually DON'T understand how there wasn't a short. Broke, I'm guessing you don't do too many hobbies that involve modular wiring. I work with RC type plugs all the time pushing larger loads than a car battery, so I guess I'm used to it and it just makes sense to me. I'm not haggling at you either man, you always have great shit to post, just saying what I'm thinking, yknow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Use Anderson connectors if it absolutely must be removable, They are cheap and the proper thing to use for something like this. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/37707/Anderson-Power-Products-6325G6-SB175-Series-/ That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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