Jacob Boyd Bauer Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 So I've had two Memphis 15's that I picked up about two years ago. They've fared well with my little AudioPipe APSM-1300. But alas, it's time to move on to bigger and better things. For about a year now I've been toying with the idea of using a pair of 18's as daily drivers. I've also wanted an excuse to try out Ampere Audio for just as long. Well, I've decided to take the plunge and do it. Before I move further ahead, I would like to request a review of my enclosure, as well as the driver and amplifier combination. Any feedback, criticism, well wishes, or physics/electronics lessons are greatly appreciated. Is this the beginnings of a poor design, or am I headed down the right path? Before you go any further, please make sure to read this, right here---> The enclosure design is not finished. I have not yet added the port or any gussets. The general specs: 2x PSI Audio Platform 1 18s with the "high performance" option Ampere Audio AA-1200.1 The enclosure (unfinished design): Designed to maximize volume usage in my 2005 Dodge Ram crew cab, while allowing me to still use the rear window for window purposes. ~30 cubic feet volume accounting for driver displacement, but not port and gusset displacement. I expect that the port and gusset displacement will put the enclosure volume right around 20 cubic feet which is where I really want to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Boyd Bauer Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 UPDATE:: I believe that this is as good as it's gonna get without input from someone more experienced than I am. Gross volume - 30.4 ft3 Net volume - 21.81 ft3 Port Ratio - 1:2 Port Volume - 8.23 ft3 Tuning ~20 Hz Again, the planned components are: 2x PSI Audio 18 Ampere Audio AA-1200.1 Here's a screen cap of the thing w/o gussets: Is this a good enclosure? If not, why not, and what would you change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Where would the bracing go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Boyd Bauer Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Where would the bracing go? 45o gussets all around on the joints. I haven't figured out how I want to brace the side of the port that faces the front yet though. Speaking of ports, is that a stupid design? Should I just drop it and do a labyrinth port instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 I wouldn't say it's stupid. It's a fairly common style but the thing you'll have to consider is that a port like that will reduce efficiency. To what extent i'm not entirely sure but if efficiency isn't your main goal then it probably won't matter all that much. You're going to want support beams reinforcing any large panels. The more flex in your box the more energy you're losing. Another thing is, what is your port cross sectional area? If it is too small for the subs being used and the amount of power being thrown at them, you will start to hear port noise and may even run into port compression if the port is really small which will limit the total output of the system. Hopefully someone else on here with much more knowledge than myself can chime in and give you some advice and pointers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Also, make sure that the end of the port is at least the width of the port away from any walls. Meaning if your port is 7x14 (assuming 1:2 ratio), make sure it's opening is at least 7" away from any of the wall of the enclosure. If not, your tuning will be off. Another thing is that with a split port like that, you split the port in two such that the split adds up to the final port end. So, keeping with the 7x14 example, each split should be 3.5x14. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Boyd Bauer Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 You're going to want support beams reinforcing any large panels. The more flex in your box the more energy you're losing. I was really thinking that the way the port is will help brace the back, top, and bottom of that biggest section. The problem then becomes bracing the front of the port to the front of the box, as well as figuring out what to do with those gigantic side pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Boyd Bauer Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Also, make sure that the end of the port is at least the width of the port away from any walls. Meaning if your port is 7x14 (assuming 1:2 ratio), make sure it's opening is at least 7" away from any of the wall of the enclosure. If not, your tuning will be off. Another thing is that with a split port like that, you split the port in two such that the split adds up to the final port end. So, keeping with the 7x14 example, each split should be 3.5x14. Always. The port is 10" wide, and so it's 10" away from the walls at the opening. That last part about the width being halved, does that mean that if my port is 10" wide, the width of my splits should be 5" each side? Would doing a labyrinth like thing be better? Something like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogcase2002 Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 What do those subs call for? Almost 22 cubes seems pretty big for 2 18s . Clarion cz702 Ssa evil mids and tweeters ppi 900.4 2 zcon 18s Taramps 10k 3 big dekas 1 xs 3 runs of 4/0 and big 3 300+ amp ohio generator 155.7 on dash at 36 (peak) 152 at 25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 After your port splits each side should be half as big and the common section, so if the vertical section is 10" wide where it splits it should be 5". With that said, I'd suggest moving the port to one side or the other and not have to worry about having the port split. This will also put the interior end of the port far away from the side panel. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.