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wrxfan96

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Hey everyone, I'm new here but have some experience in car audio. I was lucky enough to purchase THE car I want at the age of 20, and it is in pretty good condition. It's a bone stock, turbo 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited in Obsidian Black Pearl, the color I wanted, and all black leather interior, also what I wanted, as well as 5-speed, again, what I wanted. I just started working full time for the first time since I got a job at 16 this month, so I will have some extra money laying around once I get my loans under control and down pat. On my first car, a 2000 Subaru Legacy L I did a small setup in it with the front stage being Precision Power S2.65c components being powered 50w RMS from a Rockford Fosgate Prime R300x4 and temporarily had two 12" DVC 4-ohm Rockford Fosgate Punch HX2s in a prefab sealed enclosure off the rear channel only getting 150W RMS, using an Alpine CDE-151 as the head unit It was mediocre, but it helped me learn how to get things going. In my next car, a 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Special Edition (yes I've only owned Legacies, and I just bought my third lol) I just ran a JL Audio 12W0v3 off 200W RMS from an old Kicker 2 channel using a Kenwood DDX-23BT as the head unit. Now that I have the car I plan on maintaining and keeping for quite awhile, I want to do her up properly.

The issue I'm running into, is deciding which steps to take first, and whether to spend less now and be less satisfied, or spend more later and be more satisfied but wait on good sound. I want some opinions on which order to do things, in order of most sensible installation, and bang for buck.

1. Front sound stage

2. Sound deadening and dampening

3. Rewiring entire car

4. Subwoofer

5. Amplifier(s)

6. Head Unit (will possibly keep and be using a sound processor)

7. Electrical

Another issue is, should I keep stock speakers longer, and get a more expensive speakers or get a lesser quality speakers for now then get higher quality when I can afford it and sell the older ones? I wanted everyone else's opinions on this before I do the complete system plan. I'm open to speaker suggestions, amplifier suggestions, installation help, anything. Thanks!

2005 Obsidian Black Pearl Subaru Legacy GT Limited

Head unit: Stock

Front stage: Stock

Rear stage: Stock

Sub stage: Stock

Electrical: Stock

Wiring: Stock

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What I would do since you actually have a playing "stock" system is under the hood upgrades and sound deadening the interior. Do you have a battery under the hood ?? If so, do the electrical and get you a second battery in the trunk area where the amplifier should be later. Then again, this is just my suggestion. Good luck.

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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Im in the same situation as you man. Been tryna figure things out as i go for a couple months now. So far all that ive actually ordered is, firstly, a H.O. Alternator. Becuase i know ill need it when the system is in. Then ordered a bunch of deadener. Im not installing anything till i have around %90 of all the equipment. Im already set on some speakers so thats not much of an issue, just a financial issue. those will be ordered after i decide on a headunit, dsp(or dont need one), and amps for front stage. My substage is going to be very last of everything. Goodluck man

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I would do sound deadening first. Then rewire car. Then upgrade electrical. Then, this is where it gets really subjective (no pun intended), I would get the subs and amps together. Get that all in and put together the best you can at the moment without having everything. Then front stage/amps. As for getting cheap speakers first then better ones later, just do it right the first time. When I say right I mean whatever you think you really want. That doesn't mean go out and get the most expensive thing you can. Just get what you will be satisfied with and proud to show your friends. As for brands to check out, I personally like B2 audio. They make quality equipment that does more than it says it will and is built to last. Just look up videos of different companies' stuff and read other people's experiences and decide for yourself.

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What I would do since you actually have a playing "stock" system is under the hood upgrades and sound deadening the interior. Do you have a battery under the hood ?? If so, do the electrical and get you a second battery in the trunk area where the amplifier should be later. Then again, this is just my suggestion. Good luck.

I do not have a newer battery under the hood, just a starter. Was thinking of getting a starter XS Power battery under hood then a D3400 in trunk, or just running a single D3400 in trunk and do a battery relocation.

Im in the same situation as you man. Been tryna figure things out as i go for a couple months now. So far all that ive actually ordered is, firstly, a H.O. Alternator. Becuase i know ill need it when the system is in. Then ordered a bunch of deadener. Im not installing anything till i have around %90 of all the equipment. Im already set on some speakers so thats not much of an issue, just a financial issue. those will be ordered after i decide on a headunit, dsp(or dont need one), and amps for front stage. My substage is going to be very last of everything. Goodluck man

I have a buddy who did SPL in his Subaru Outback but then gave up on car audio after he started putting money into his MKIII Supra, so he has a 370A Singer Alternator with a lifetime warranty that would bolt into my factory location on my car. Should I buy it off him for $500 even if I don't plan on going anywhere near 5k watts?

I would do sound deadening first. Then rewire car. Then upgrade electrical. Then, this is where it gets really subjective (no pun intended), I would get the subs and amps together. Get that all in and put together the best you can at the moment without having everything. Then front stage/amps. As for getting cheap speakers first then better ones later, just do it right the first time. When I say right I mean whatever you think you really want. That doesn't mean go out and get the most expensive thing you can. Just get what you will be satisfied with and proud to show your friends. As for brands to check out, I personally like B2 audio. They make quality equipment that does more than it says it will and is built to last. Just look up videos of different companies' stuff and read other people's experiences and decide for yourself.

One of the problems with car audio in my area is everyone buys Sony Xplods and thinks they're loud, or this guy who acts like he knows everything about car audio runs a Boss Audio RM1100 and actually tells everyone its 1100W after I explained a thousand times his fuse would pop if it went past 216W (has a single 15A fuse), but his "ear dyno" says otherwise. No one really cares here, I could spend $40 on speakers, say they're quality, and it'd blow everyone's minds lol. Also, everyone rides JL Audios ass, I said JL Audio is overpriced once on the local car scene Facebook page (1100+ members) and everyone tore me a new one saying I knew nothing about audio. Me, I'm always wanting more, but can be satisfied with mid-range equipment. I was looking at entry level Morel 602 Maximos or Focal Access speakers, then a matching Morel Primo sub or Access sub, and that's if I decide to go full SQ and not SQL.

Thanks everyone for the opinions, I probably will do deadening and wiring first, that seemed to always be the plan I go back too. System is only as strong as the weakest link and no one ever touches either of those two lol.

2005 Obsidian Black Pearl Subaru Legacy GT Limited

Head unit: Stock

Front stage: Stock

Rear stage: Stock

Sub stage: Stock

Electrical: Stock

Wiring: Stock

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If thats a good price then definatly. Having more power capabilities on tap is always a good thing. Just double check what those alts are going for, i have no idea on the price of those. The mechman i bought was around 300 i believe, only 240 tho. I wouldve gotten a 300+ if they made one for my car that goes in the stock location.

Around $300 for 240amp alternator.

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Did you know that as long as I've been competing sound quality, I've never bought a aftermarket alternator for my rides ?? Never needed one. Just a thought.

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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Did you know that as long as I've been competing sound quality, I've never bought a aftermarket alternator for my rides ?? Never needed one. Just a thought.

I didn't even use one with a 10k Stetsom. 90A stock alt, good solid SLA in the front and 2 fucking giant AGM batteries. Don't think it ever went below mid 12v while demoing.

No need to size an electrical system for playing sine waves for hours. How long do most people really play at full volume? Music is dynamic anyway, plus the subs impedance in higher than nominal.

As long as your voltage is within the recommended range of the amp it's not going to make any difference anyway. Losing 2000w off a 10000w system for example is nothing. Only time you'll ever hear a difference between 14.4v and 12v is when you're looking at a meter ;)

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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Did you know that as long as I've been competing sound quality, I've never bought a aftermarket alternator for my rides ?? Never needed one. Just a thought.

I didn't even use one with a 10k Stetsom. 90A stock alt, good solid SLA in the front and 2 fucking giant AGM batteries. Don't think it ever went below mid 12v while demoing.

No need to size an electrical system for playing sine waves for hours. How long do most people really play at full volume? Music is dynamic anyway, plus the subs impedance in higher than nominal.

As long as your voltage is within the recommended range of the amp it's not going to make any difference anyway. Losing 2000w off a 10000w system for example is nothing. Only time you'll ever hear a difference between 14.4v and 12v is when you're looking at a meter ;)

I run a little less than 3000 w rms with my amps, and I don't need any HO aftermarket alternator.

I have an AGM Group34 batt under the hood, and a an AGM Group31 in the rear. I watch my voltage on a voltmeter (hooked on the cig lighter input).

I never dip below 12 v.

Sound deadening, and wiring first (rca's, power, grounds, speaker cables,...).

Then amplifiers, still on stock speakers.

Then head unit, and speakers-subs.

Good luck.

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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