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I'm not sure I'd trust that "100% ofc pure copper" writing on that "speaking cable" lol :(

-Jamie M.

That was the first thing i asked my guys at Mechman when they sent it to me (the spools). They told me it was a typo. As unfortunate as it is, you can't just ship a container full of wire back because of a typo. The new stuff will be fixed. Even with that, the word "speaking" has kind of a ring to it if you ask me. :D It could have been a much worse misspell too. I can live with it.

As for the "trust" comment...i'm not sure what that has to do with the FACT it is 100% OFC though. :unknw: It's actually really good speaker wire. I am going to be using a lot of it.

edit: is there a reason behind posting the same exact thing on facebook as you did here? are you looking for attention of some sort and not feeling like you are getting it? Kinda weird. SMH


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Ayy, nice Brian. I have a question about those screws - Is the main advantage of them the fact that theyre #15 in diameter? Just wondering because #14 is the biggest size you see in most stores. Then again, Im blind as a bat.

these things are damn near lag bolts with a #3 phillips head. I am exaggerating of course because they aren't as large as a real lag bolt. But they are a very beefy, high load fastener. They won't fit in a standard basket without being reamed out first. I always recommend pre-drilling if using them in a sub box. They will never break on you and will hold like no other. I am a long time user of T-nuts and threaded inserts but i am also a long time user of these. The 18" subs in my Tahoe are held in with these and all the 2x3 bracing inside is held together with these (and resin of course). That box is 12 years old and still going strong today.

They will also go through mild steel, heavy gauge sheet metal and most other construction items like 2x4's etc. (I offer more lengths). For those that use wood to brace their boxes, these things are amazing. For those that build work benches (like all the ones i have), they are amazing. It's even more fun to use them with an impact drill where you can buzz them into place a lot easier in difficult situations.

The only time i have heard ANYONE complain about them is they called them "wobbly" and had a hard time putting them in. Turned out they were using a #2 bit. Please do not ever use a #2 bit if you buy these screws! You will have a bad day and it will be your fault not mine haha :D I supply (and sell) #3 bits that are perfect for these.


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Ayy, nice Brian. I have a question about those screws - Is the main advantage of them the fact that theyre #15 in diameter? Just wondering because #14 is the biggest size you see in most stores. Then again, Im blind as a bat.

these things are damn near lag bolts with a #3 phillips head. I am exaggerating of course because they aren't as large as a real lag bolt. But they are very beefy. They won't fit in a standard basket without being reamed out first. I always recommend pre-drilling if using them in a sub box. They will never break on you and will hold like no other. I am a long time user of T-nuts and threaded inserts but i am also a long time user of these. The 18" subs in my Tahoe are held in with these and all the 2x3 bracing inside is held together with these (and resin of course). That box is 12 years old and still going strong today.

They will also go through mild steel, heavy gauge sheet metal and most other construction items like 2x4's etc. (I offer more lengths). For those that use wood to brace their boxes, these things are amazing. For those that build work benches (like all the ones i have), they are amazing. It's even more fun to use them with an impact drill where you can buzz them into place a lot easier in difficult situations.

The only time i have heard ANYONE complain about them is they called them "wobbly" and had a hard time putting them in. Turned out they were using a #2 bit. Please do not ever use a #2 bit if you buy these screws! You will have a bad day and it will be your fault not mine haha :D I supply (and sell) #3 bits that are perfect for these.

Awesome, thank you for the explanation.
On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

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Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

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He has everything he needs to build a box for that sub... :| haha. Following

HU: Pioneer DMH-Z5350BT

Mids & Highs: ML280.3, ML700.3, ML1800.3 Mille Legend Series 3 way

Lows: x3 JL Audio 12TW3 powered by JL Audio RD1500/1 

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I can't get over how genius those box terminals are! So simple yet so effective :clapping:

it's been brewing in my head for YEARS but i didn't have any means to make it nice or mass-producible for that matter until i got my CNC. Then after making normal terminals for 6 months, it hit me again. Seems to be good, the only downside is the cost. But you will get a lot of love and high quality product for what you pay for.

thanks a lot :D


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I had the thought of magnetic terminals floating around in my head too for a while but have never had the means nor the know how to implement them so what good that does me! I could see these being the way of the future for speaker terminals especially if they're included in wiring kits for beginners (they can't mess up the polarity as long as they do it right to the sub too). Kind of a more simplistic plug and play style connector that is tool free. Just like when peripheral computer devices started becoming plug and play and didn't require a whole bunch of software/driver disks. Now anyone can plug in a mouse, keyboard or hell even a printer without too much background knowledge. It's the way a lot of things are going nowadays.

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