the_garynator

Parallel 6th order walk through in Nissan Hardbody on 10kw - HOLY !#$% 15hz video pg 4!!

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Love the drill press on the tailgate, Doubles as a workbench ftw! lol

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Love the drill press on the tailgate, Doubles as a workbench ftw! lol

Hahahahahaha, it's perfect height for a lawn chair too! I had to get creative, work bench area is almost non existent in my garage and I won't do anything about it because everything is at my shop. Normally I would do a build like this there but it's all torn apart because I am currently looking for a bigger one. Plus it's kinda nice having a project I can work on at home vs driving 15min every time.

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Man... Im in for this one. I just picked up a 96 Hardbody. I would like to see your alt set up installed. No one makes a replacement HO alt so I have to make a bracket. Im planing on a small blow through with 2 12's nothing this big. LOL

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Man... Im in for this one. I just picked up a 96 Hardbody. I would like to see your alt set up installed. No one makes a replacement HO alt so I have to make a bracket. Im planing on a small blow through with 2 12's nothing this big. LOL

Unfortunately I'm not running the stock KA24. I have a small block chevy 350 swap.

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Although the 96 hardbody has a single cam ka24, which should have the same mounting points as the ka24e in the 90-91 240sx which would mean that I actually have a bracket for a second alternator that I made a few years back for my old 240 if you're not worried about a/c. I'm no longer using it so I'd consider selling it if you're interested assuming that it will work. It's made to use a 125 amp nissan quest alternator

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Also, check out the blowthrough link in my sig, that was a blowthrough I did in this truck with 2 12s

Edited by the_garynator

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Awww damn.. I need ac down here in the desert is F**king HOT during the summers LOL. I guess ill have to do some building or maybe a swap in the future. But keep the pics coming. Im going to be stealing ideas from you lol. Like what you have for seats. Ill get rid of the bench seat soon.

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Awww damn.. I need ac down here in the desert is F**king HOT during the summers LOL. I guess ill have to do some building or maybe a swap in the future. But keep the pics coming. Im going to be stealing ideas from you lol. Like what you have for seats. Ill get rid of the bench seat soon.

Damn, that's unfortunate lol. Yeah, getting rid of the bench is huge, talking about couple of db with it folded forward vs back with my blow through. I'm making custom brackets this week to mount the seats, if theyou end up being bolt on it can probably make a second set pretty easily

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just curious, any relationship you use on port area on the rear chamber vs port area on the front chamber? i´ve found that double port area on front works better for me, for 2 12s i had a 3 4" aeros on rear chamber and a 10" aero on front chamber, worked awesome for sure

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Awww damn.. I need ac down here in the desert is F**king HOT during the summers LOL. I guess ill have to do some building or maybe a swap in the future. But keep the pics coming. Im going to be stealing ideas from you lol. Like what you have for seats. Ill get rid of the bench seat soon.

Damn, that's unfortunate lol. Yeah, getting rid of the bench is huge, talking about couple of db with it folded forward vs back with my blow through. I'm making custom brackets this week to mount the seats, if theyou end up being bolt on it can probably make a second set pretty easily

I would be interested for sure.

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just curious, any relationship you use on port area on the rear chamber vs port area on the front chamber? i´ve found that double port area on front works better for me, for 2 12s i had a 3 4" aeros on rear chamber and a 10" aero on front chamber, worked awesome for sure

I don't really have a go to ratio, I usually start with my small chamber volume at recommend for single sub per chamber, for shared chamber (2 subs) I go between 2x recommended for one down to 1.5x recommended (better power handling and less box rise, in the mofo blow through it allowed the subs to handle more power through out the pass band without them going past xmax). Then use the rest

just curious, any relationship you use on port area on the rear chamber vs port area on the front chamber? i´ve found that double port area on front works better for me, for 2 12s i had a 3 4" aeros on rear chamber and a 10" aero on front chamber, worked awesome for sure

For my series tuned blowthrough I was really limited in options due to using the existing shell that was in the truck (14.5" high sides and 40.5" wide internal). I've found that in 6th orders, tuning frequencies and small chamber volume are the most important factors. For a single sub I use recommended volume, for 2 subs i go between 2x recommended and 1.5 (i.e. recommended for mofos was 2 cubes per sub, i used 1.5 for that build which was 3 cubes total after displacements). How big i go depends, in the mofo build i went with 1.5x because the big chamber hand no loading wall (not to be confused with the port baffle which is commonly referred to as a loading wall) and the ratio was so huge. This allowed more cone control so the subs could take 2krms throughout the passband without exceeding xmax. Basically with shared chamber setups, going 1.5x the recommended can give you better power handling and less box rise but with the downside of less enclosure gain.

For the mofo build i went with the max amount of Port area into could fit in the rear chamber without significantly modifications and as much port area in the big chamber as I could using baffle thickness as port length to get the tuning frequency I wanted. series tuned 6th you need as much port area as possible in the big chamber, so it's usually best to go with baffle thickness as port length if the port will add to the chamber displacements due to the relationship between enclosure volume, port size and length.

Remember when designing series tuned 6ths that the front chamber tuning frequency is not really a tuning frequency but the upper limit of the passband since it acts as an acoustic filter rather than a standard port. Series tuned 6ths act very similar to 4th orders in this respect so they're actually much easier to design and have more room for error than parallel tuned 6ths, which is probably why they're so much more popular than parallel tuned 6ths.

Ive had more experience with parallels and have a lot more design principles for them than I do with series tuned. I built the one series tuned 6th because I wanted to understand how they worked and after figuring them out and discovering their limitations I got bored real quick. Parallel tuned 6ths are much more complex and have a much higher potential in my opinion assuming you're not comparing them peak spl at a certain frequency with the same size limitation. A series tuned 6th will generally have a higher peak number capability compared to a parallel given the same outer dimension limitations.

Edited by the_garynator

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Bit of an update, my buddy brought his nice welder over and beefed up the alternator bracket for me (he's a much better welder than me and my welder is pretty much useless on anything bigger than 1/8"). I'll post a picture tomorrow. Still need to finish the mount for the tensioner though.

Here's the tensioner I decided to use. It's off anow early 2000s ford 7.3l turbo diesel and should work great for what I need. New pulleys for it are from a 2002ish silverado:

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Also, the enclosure is finally starting to looking look like an enclosure!

Had to make some compromises due to rushed planning and a few measurement errors, but that's why I'm building this, so that when I ripped it out to move onto level 6 18s that I know exactly what I am working with:

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Trying to get it playing for a meet on Sunday so I'm skipping some stuff like much of the bracing, round overs, tensioner and electrical, but I will pull everything apart and finish stuff next week. Pretty excited to see what she does even if it's on low power!

Edited by the_garynator
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Some more parts showed up.

10ft of 4/0 ofc I'll be running from the alternators to battery, this way I only need to do 1 run per alternator instead of stacking ring terminals or getting buss bars.

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Some grills for the 10" woofers. Pretty impressed with the quality of them.

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More double wall adhesive lined heat shrink tubing

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About to go do some more work on it, hoping to mount up the subs today!

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Got 2 of the 10s installed, just need to bore out the grill brackets for the other two and I'll be set:

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Cut the baffles, going to have the outer piece removable to make installation and removal easier:

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Got the bracing complete for the small chamber, need a few more bolts and it will be ready to go:

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Almost time to mount the subs!!

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