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Project Flexington: 160.3db @ 37hz!! Parallel 6th order walk through, DC Neo Elite 18s, 4 DC 5.0ks, JY Lithium, 12 banks of XS Caps


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Heads are on and new head bolts torqued down and valvetrain is installed:
IMG_20170129_112526_435_zps1iza9jw2.jpg

IMG_20170129_112639_583_zpspuqcoqsu.jpg

Might get the intake manifold and carb on later today, otherwise I should have that stuff done Tuesday.

Thinking about saying fuck it and cutting into the passenger side door to start reinforcing it today.

Still trying to decide how I want to go about reinforcing the door though.  Considering either reinforcing the outer door skin and outer frame or leaving the outer skin in tact and focusing on reinforcing the frame and inner door skin.

If I do the outer skin I would cut the inner skin out then weld 1/8" flat stock spaced out in a vertical stripe pattern, then angle iron horizontally. Hopefully I can weld it slow enough to keep the door panel from warping a shit load. Probably going to start with 1/2" beads and space them apart / alternate sides.

If I do the inner, I'd just basically sheet it off with plate steel.

Or maybe do both options... what do you guys think, opinions, suggestions?

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" or leaving the outer skin in tact and focusing on reinforcing the frame and inner door skin. "  I vote for this.

I like the idea of the frame and inner door being built strong.  Also, if something ever happens to the outer skin (fender bender, metal tearing, flex issues, etc), you can replace just the outer skin. Then all the work you did on your inner frame/skin will still be intact.

Someone hit my door in my old 72 Chevy, and I was able to reskin the door for cheap.  Kept the door frame and inner skin, which was painted to match the rest of the interior on those old PU's.  

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

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Instead of welding to the skin, there is a panel bond adhesive sold by Eastwood that is used by OEMs to bond structural members. You could use this to "glue" the bars to the skin so it doesn't burn the paint or warp the metal. I don't think there is a way to weld it without needing some grinding and a skim of Bondo. Love the build! Tuned in to see these bad ass doors!

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10 hours ago, ShadeTreeMechanic said:

Instead of welding to the skin, there is a panel bond adhesive sold by Eastwood that is used by OEMs to bond structural members. You could use this to "glue" the bars to the skin so it doesn't burn the paint or warp the metal. I don't think there is a way to weld it without needing some grinding and a skim of Bondo. Love the build! Tuned in to see these bad ass doors!

Thanks for the idea! I'll probably try that combined with welding metal in to reinforce the frame and inner door

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Made quite a bit of progress last night!

Got the intake manifold, carb, etc mounted:
20170201_213039_zpswlzy2r9j.jpg

Headers, plugs, fuel system, new custom upper and lower radiator hoses. Test fitted the radiator so I could check for how much clearance I have to mount a transmission cooler on the front of it. 
20170202_004539_zpsx6i8koxy.jpg

And it's looking like an engine again!
20170202_004532_zpsmkovth1d.jpg

I also stripped the passenger  door to start reinforcing it!
20170202_002949_zpscfuwmd29.jpg

As well as evaluate the flex damage, this is the front window track lol:
20170201_220151_zps0hejlqdx.jpg

The mirror caused some damage too:
20170201_220224_zpsc1ig1reb.jpg

20170201_220206_zpszu00gmvz.jpg

Planning on getting some more work done today if I can muster up some ambition lol

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Looking good! I'm surprised you didn't use EFI seeing that this is an electronics forum.

2000 Toyota Solara SEV6, 200 amp alternator, Jensen VX7020, Hifonics American Warrior Taurus X, Hifonics American Warrior Centurion X, JBL Club 6500C, Power Acoustik XP2K-4102, Coustic Power Logic HT-612 in a BP4.

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