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[Final Update 6/6] 99 S-10 Blazer Build - Lots of setups


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4 NVX VCW15s on 1 Brutus 3k @ 1 ohm (ported box behind rear seats) - Below

4 NVX VCW15s on 1 Brutus 3k @ 1 ohm (4th order B-Pillar wall) - Post #27

2 AQ HDC318s on 2 SQ 2200s @ 2 ohms strapped (149.2 dB) - Post #39

1 SQ HDC418 on 1 SQ 2200 @ 0.5 ohm (146.55 dB) - Post #129

2 SQ HDC318s on 2 SQ 2200s @ 1 ohm strapped (150.45 dB) - Post #132

4 NVX VCW15s on 2 SQ2200s @ 1 ohm strapped (147.84 dB) - Post #153

1 SQ HDC418 w/ PSI Recone on 1 AQ 2200 @ 0.5 ohm (147.72 dB) - Post #174

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Hey all. I've been reading these forums for years now, just trying to soak up some information before jumping in.

I've always had some sort of setup in my car ever since I got my first one at 16. However, it was always whatever I could find on Craigslist for under $200.

So after reading hundreds (if not thousands) of build logs, I decided to finally throw a little build together and see how it works out.

Next week I have fall break and will be doing a big overhaul. This system was put together in a little over 2 days, so I could go "compete" in my first show.

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Vehicle: 1999 S-10 Blazer 4DR

Head Unit: JVC KD-A605

Dash Speakers: 2x Pioneer TSG4645R 4" x 6" (30w rms)

Door Speakers: 4x Kenwood KFC-1665S 6.5" (30w rms)

Highs/mid amp: Hifonics Brutus 316.4

Subwoofer amp: Hifonics Brutus BRX3016.1D

Subwoofers: 4x NVX VCW 152 (15", dual 2 ohm, 1000w RMS) wired to 1 ohm

1 run of 4 GA scraps (acquired in trades over the years), stock battery, stock 105A alternator, no big 3 upgrade.

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TxDJq8ll.jpg

vb6VRNKl.jpg

I got these four 15s off of Craigslist real cheap, but they were in a box made for a tahoe, so I couldn't use them without removing/folding down my rear seats:

qTU0954l.jpg

I did some research here, and found the build logs of members Carnag3 and SoCaLBaMF, who both did two 18"s in the back with rear seats. Their boxes were about the right size for my subwoofers, so I just needed to make some little adjustments.

Their builds can be seen here:

Carnag3

SoCaLBaMF

After learning how to use Sketchup, and playing around with some stuff, I got a design I liked:

OETwhYul.png

UW1Fy3Il.png

(The cutouts in the design represent the outer surround dimensions. The actual woofer cut outs are a bit smaller, but I mapped it out as such to make sure none of the surrounds would overlap.)

The planned specs were:

44.25" wide x 24" tall x 31.25" deep (exterior dimensions)

Port dimensions - 6.5" wide x 27" long x 21.5" deep (175.5 square inches of port area) (tuned to 34hz)

16 cu ft. gross

- 0.10 cu ft. for the wheel well wedges (3.875" wide x 29.75" deep x 7" long)

- 0.60 cu ft. for subwoofer displacement

- 0.11 cu ft. for 2" x 4" bracing

- 1.85 cu ft. for port displacement

13.44 cu ft. net (3.36 cu ft. per subwoofer, quite a bit over recommended specs by NVX).

(If someone is bored and would like to check my math for fun, that'd be cool. I'm fairly certain I have some sort of math error, as it was my first time trying to build a box.)

Cut-out dimensions:

44.25" x 31.25" x1 (top)

38" x 29.75" x1 (bottom)

44.25" x 22.5" x2 (front/back)

7" x 29.75" x2 (side stubs)

3.875" x 29.75" x2 (side stubs)

14" x 29.75" x2 (side stubs)

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I went and grabbed 3 sheets of .75" MDF, a gallon of Titebond II, a nail gun and some nails, and got started with the help of my father.

Mapping the top baffle out to make sure it would fit:

tNRWvGZl.jpg

(The short lines were my original drawing with the top baffle being only 29.75" deep. I had to re-adjust it to 31.75" deep to make it all fit)

Start of the shell:

SjLd2Dtl.jpg

Got the port up and installed. It acts as bracing for itself, with the four square legs:

hjy1LVFl.jpg

2" x 4" bracing in between each set of subs:

2GiML4Nl.jpg

All put together and subs loaded:

TS6kK1fl.jpg

Sitting pretty in the back:

QTloK6Cl.jpg

My temporary wiring mess:

UXnPXhml.jpg

Seats in, with headrests, and still plenty of amp clearance and room to operate the folding mechanism:

iqFwGGql.jpg

It was a lot of fun building the box, and despite some issues (TONS of crooked cuts, learnings curve on tools I'd never used before, screw gun getting jammed repeatedly, etc) I think it came out pretty good.

Some videos will follow below.

First hair trick attempt:

Interior flex:

Exterior flex:

First competition run:

At my first local "competition" (it was more of a get together, that happened to have a guy doing metering), I got the opportunity to try metering for the first time.

I hadn't done any previous research on how to meter, so I just drove up and asked him what to do. He put it on the dash, and told me to pick a song and play it for 60 seconds.

I used "On My Level (28 and up)" from Decaf Zip 19.

Got a 138.70 after 60 seconds, and took 4th place (no wall + 60 second musical average). I feel like that number was pretty low (for some reason I was expecting 144+), but my voltage was also between 10v - 11v for pretty much the entire run.

I think if I had played a different song I could've taken 2nd place. (It was 139.96 dB).

The guy who took first was in a Yukon with two DD915's on a Sundown SCV6k doing close to 149.

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I've since placed orders for a 270A JS Ultimate alternator, 60' of Copper 2/0 welding cable, fuses, fuseholders, etc.

Hopefully it'll arrive before this weekend, so I can pull out the whole system and start over.

The plan is for a 4th order wall (slide in) with a 2:1 ratio tuned at around 47hz.

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Nice man!

Thanks :) I was pretty pleased with the outcome, all said and done.

I wish I had made the decision to upgrade electrical earlier though, so I could've taken that 2nd place spot :P

In to see where you go from here.

I've already got the slide in wall all set to go. Thing is massive. Like 38" wide x 60" deep x 29.75" tall. 2:1 with 9 sealed 18 ported.
Just gotta get my electrical up to par, decide if I want to seal the wall off (and if so, how to do it best without ruining upholstery).
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That box you built is high. Personnally I don't like to have my box higher than the back seat, under the head rest, so no one can see it from outside or from the front !

You're going for a 4th order bandpass : what made you choose that style ?

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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That box you built is high. Personnally I don't like to have my box higher than the back seat, under the head rest, so no one can see it from outside or from the front !

You're going for a 4th order bandpass : what made you choose that style ?

Yeah I wasn't sure how I was going to feel about it either, but I think it's perfect height. I can still see out of the rear window pretty much just as good as I could before.

I live in a pretty secure area, and have underground parking, so the only time theft is an issue would be at stores, and it's got an aftermarket security system too. Plus the rear windows are tinted enough that unless it's mid day, you can't see it. I figure if someone wants to steal my stuff, they're going to do it no matter what precautions I take.

As for the bandpass, I was searching craigslist and found a guy who had already paid to have one made. It was specially made for a 90-99 4dr blazer, to slide right in. Easily installed, easily removed.

I personally don't care about being loud (in fact, as the system is, I rarely listen over 50% volume and 25% gain knob), but I really find hair tricks fun.

He sent me some videos of the setup unsealed on a single 3500 amp, so I wanted to give it a go.

in to see how this turns out

of course :)

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Something that might help your score is re-bassing that song. You can see that at one frequency (second highest pitch) the score gains immensely compared to the other ones, so by replicating that you should be able to acheive your goal.

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