06RTCharger Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 What are the cons of using a good/high quality class D "full range" amp for mids n highs when compared to using a good/high quality class ab amp? The thing i notice most is price. Anyone with experience in using both class d full range AND class ab for mids n highs, please give me some insight. Thanks everyone. I hope this doesnt count as vs, no brands mentioned, just amp classes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Class a/b is all I'll use for mid's and highs, Also you're doing a Sq build, class d and Sq don't belong together. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 i cant imagine a world where "D" class would be a thing to use on mids and highs unless all you cared about was just being loud an cheap. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Until you hear the difference between the two you'll never understand how good a quality a/b amp sounds. When you add to the fact a quality H/U and speakers make to the overall performance of the system as a whole will sound. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Class D are cheaper than A/B and there is a reason why. Some people say they can't tell, but if you ever switched from one to the other you would know. Class A/B is all I will run for midst and highs. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalilac619 Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Maybe with shit class D full range... 2000 Suburban 6 runs of 2/0 12 timpano audio mids,6 timpana audio tweets and 1 timpano compression horn per door 8 banks of blue Maxwells + 260ah of Yin Long LTOs 2 370 Amp Autotech Alts mids amps 2 Crescendo Skyway 3ks Tweet amp Crossfire 2000.4 sub amp: 4 Crossfire XT 8ks Subs: 8 18 in Crossfires in a 4th order Best Scores at events… 161.6@38hz DBdrag sealed on the dash… 162.54 outlaw…161.14 Meca headrest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Miller Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 So, My manual states my amp (B2 Quattro) is a class H design. Where does it fall between a/b-D ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 My hearing isnt all that. Im half deaf in my left hear, and my right is meh. Last three tests at work show i hear almost nothing over a certain freq. Cant remember what it was. I will say, when we run the RTA, from around 13k to 20k, our class ab we run, shows stronger. I had one class d amp on my mid/tweet, and i couldnt even detect about 16.5k and up. Kind like it wasnt there,.. if you feel me. No matter what i did. I did however like my RF T1000.4ad. Loved that thing. I like ab for needs on full or upper range. Again, i doubt i can "hear" the difference, because im me, with my ears, but, i know, that "full range class D" gets funnied with alot by them "smart" people. Ask Ray West, or Tony D about class D anything. After they laugh for half a day, they will then get into the becauses of it. AB foot print will me much larger, and they will run hotter also. Again, im no SQ guy. No real dog in the fight. Theres guys that have forgotten more about true SQ, than ill ever learn in 4 life times. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andru Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 I thought the hertz hdp4 sounded pretty good for a class D but I don't claim to be an expert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Class A/B or D it really shouldn't matter. In the real world though a class A/B amp has some inherent qualities that make it easier to design, so its easier to implement which means a better "sounding" amp. although it does put off more heat. Realistically a amp should add nothing to the sound coming out of the speakers...meaning it shouldn't color the sound at all if I am going to use annoying subjective terms. (when someone makes a statement like that just replace whatever stupid word they used with distortion and that usually explains it) read this for more info if you reallly want to get into it. http://www.analog.com/library/analogDialogue/archives/40-06/class_d.pdf PWM and feedback loops and on and on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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