2016 Mazda 6 SQ(L) build

[bsneon98]

Looks awesome man!

I have to ask and this goes for anyone who has a new car. How deterred are people who add anything aftermarket with all these new computers integrated from the factory?

I know just as an example Chrysler's 2000 and up can have such wonky electrical systems. I can't imagine what some other manufactures are into.

[Swordlordboy1234]

Brand new car gutted, love it! Work is amazingly clean too bro. Love the stained amp board thing, gives a great look

Maybe i missed it but is your car quieter when driving after having installed the luxury liner? I'm talking road noise, I'm assuming it is, maybe you haven't driven it since, idk...i really wish I would have added luxury liner to mine years back before I put all interior panels back......my next vehicle gonna be quiet......

This one was quiet to begin with... but yes I rode to work on volume 32 today.. normally im volume 40-43. In my 96 accord I used about the same amount of CDL but a lot more luxary liner and it helped a ton (and made me realize all the WIND noise I had because the road noise was gone). I highly reccomend doing deadeing the right way the first time as long as your vehicle will allow it. 90% of the time I find compromises having to be made with 1) do i want this to fit back together correctly 2) do i want it to be done properly according to the internet and its standards when you post pictures. LOL

[Swordlordboy1234]

I like how you're doing everything right, the first time.

This interior reminds me of my Mazda CX-5. I still need to work on deadening, hopefully for Xmas, but just on front doors and trunk.

I guess yours will sound good with all those B2 equipments.

I'm so jealous of your lithium battery.

Thank you bud! Im looking forward to this build. Ive already had it all in my 96 accord so its not like its gonna blow me away with how it performs but im hoping to make the install THAT much nicer. Not that the accord install was bad, most considered it well done but it was still a 20 year old car with its defects. The pursuit of perfection will leave nothing but disappointment unless you look at the positives of your shortcomings. LOL.

Im still yet to do the doors but I think it will help the speaker performance most. Idk about your car but mine is already pretty quiet for a 30,000$ car. If it was like a 90,000$ car I might expect more but I aint that ballin yet.

[Swordlordboy1234]

Nice. The B2 boards will look really clean. Love the gray color tech flex. Dig gray myself. Looks tits dude.

Thanks bro! Yeah every 8ga 4ga and 2/0 will be tech flexed. And ive decided every panel that I create out of wood will be pretty in some form or fashion regardless if it can be seen. But I appreciate you stopping by check in after another couple weeks. Box should be done and maybe some more paneling / deadening.

[Swordlordboy1234]

Looks awesome man!

I have to ask and this goes for anyone who has a new car. How deterred are people who add anything aftermarket with all these new computers integrated from the factory?

I know just as an example Chrysler's 2000 and up can have such wonky electrical systems. I can't imagine what some other manufactures are into.

Id say that depends on install experience and skill level. Honestly with my skill level (moderate on OEM intigration, but with about 3 years experience working on all kinds of cars for car audio installation) It is nothing for me to take a brand new car and take it apart. I recommend making sure you take your time and you have experience taking apart interiors. Then its just a matter of keeping all your clips and bolts organized. wires are wires... it doesnt matter if its a 1955 or a 2017 or a ford or a lambo. A wire still has a outer jacket and inner copper and it still works under the basic laws of electricity.

Making sure you have the right wires and such is just research.

Like I said I am glad I got to screw up my 1996 a couple times before I learned enough to fix it all and Im glad I worked on about 50 2016's before I purchased my own and attempted a build this large.

I hope all this helps

[bsneon98]

Its just crazy to think ok to add a headunit I need this module to retain this and that, the list can go on and on. I give everyone mad props who can do that.

I have dabbled here and there with these newer cars and they are for sure a challenge! Just takes more time and attention to details

[Swordlordboy1234]

Its just crazy to think ok to add a headunit I need this module to retain this and that, the list can go on and on. I give everyone mad props who can do that.

I have dabbled here and there with these newer cars and they are for sure a challenge! Just takes more time and attention to details

Its actually pretty simple. Im at my day job but ill type something up really quick.

When i quote customers ( I install on the side) I look up and see whats available for Metra parts on their website. If they have a dash kit available then bam its time for an aftermarket radio. Steeringwheel controls are easy to keep if you get a good unit. Some are even pre programmed and plug and play. Metra will also sometimes have the plug and play harnesses to keep OEM usb's and such. pretty cool.

If I do not see a dash kit available then jump right to DSP's. Start with how many channels your looking to run. Some will be fine with 6 channels out, some 8 channels out. Very few will need some of the crzier DSP's that can have 12+ channels output. Once you get a DSP picked out then its just finding the correct wire colors and soldering into them at a central location. Most cars will have a Bluetooth module ( like mine in the passenger kick panel) and all your wires will be there. If not it will have a premium sound system with a amplifier hidden somewhere and you can grab them there.

The ONLY REASON i got the JL Fix86 was because it has auto features that were cheaper and easier for me.

My stock system has a HPF likely in it that I would need to EQ out to get a flat 20hz - 20khz, thats also assuming its electrically flat until that HPF which isnt overly likely. My DSP from B2 does have Hi level inputs and you can EQ that signal before the DSP gets to the output section. But then im needing to get a $1200 RTA and look at the signal im getting electrically (not from a speaker) and EQ it all flat before I start on the output side of the DSP. The JL Fix 86 will auto EQ everything flat 20-20,000, it will get rid of any stock time allignment, stock filters, it will also signal sum (so like if my stock system had 3k - 20k going to a tweeter and the rest going to a 6.5 it would combine those automatically). Not only will it give me a pretty flat signal automatically it comes with a nice little knob that looks OEM and installs easy. So thats why I chose that unit.

[bsneon98]

Its just crazy to think ok to add a headunit I need this module to retain this and that, the list can go on and on. I give everyone mad props who can do that.

I have dabbled here and there with these newer cars and they are for sure a challenge! Just takes more time and attention to details

Its actually pretty simple. Im at my day job but ill type something up really quick.

When i quote customers ( I install on the side) I look up and see whats available for Metra parts on their website. If they have a dash kit available then bam its time for an aftermarket radio. Steeringwheel controls are easy to keep if you get a good unit. Some are even pre programmed and plug and play. Metra will also sometimes have the plug and play harnesses to keep OEM usb's and such. pretty cool.

If I do not see a dash kit available then jump right to DSP's. Start with how many channels your looking to run. Some will be fine with 6 channels out, some 8 channels out. Very few will need some of the crzier DSP's that can have 12+ channels output. Once you get a DSP picked out then its just finding the correct wire colors and soldering into them at a central location. Most cars will have a Bluetooth module ( like mine in the passenger kick panel) and all your wires will be there. If not it will have a premium sound system with a amplifier hidden somewhere and you can grab them there.

The ONLY REASON i got the JL Fix86 was because it has auto features that were cheaper and easier for me.

My stock system has a HPF likely in it that I would need to EQ out to get a flat 20hz - 20khz, thats also assuming its electrically flat until that HPF which isnt overly likely. My DSP from B2 does have Hi level inputs and you can EQ that signal before the DSP gets to the output section. But then im needing to get a $1200 RTA and look at the signal im getting electrically (not from a speaker) and EQ it all flat before I start on the output side of the DSP. The JL Fix 86 will auto EQ everything flat 20-20,000, it will get rid of any stock time allignment, stock filters, it will also signal sum (so like if my stock system had 3k - 20k going to a tweeter and the rest going to a 6.5 it would combine those automatically). Not only will it give me a pretty flat signal automatically it comes with a nice little knob that looks OEM and installs easy. So thats why I chose that unit.

Thanks for the write up man. Definately a great place to start!

[bsneon98]

double post

[DLHgn]

Any updates?