Ratski Posted January 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 i need to figure something out. I have been contemplating moving the grounds to the interior of my truck and going to the body. Also been thinking about buying new cable and going all the way to the negative term on my battery bank in the bed of the truck. I have one of those roll and lock covers and all the connections there have held up fine in the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 If u really dont wanna use the frame rails for ur system, maybe run a couple short "ground straps" from the frame rails to the metal body in a couple different locations. With the straps u wouldnt have to worry as much about moisture and cracking. That might help the quality of grounding ur system to just the body. With those body-on-frame vehicle types, sometimes the rail doesnt have very much contact at all with the metal body, which might make for bad grounds. The body and frame rails are usually separated by thick dense rubber spacers, so just add ur own contact between body and frame with the straps. You could even just use short 1/0 runs from frame to body, but figured i suggest a way to stay away from having audio wire under the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Zinc plated crimp lugs, adhesive lined heat shrink, and dielectric grease on the bolted connection to the frame. I have connections like this on my plow truck still going strong after 10+ years. Grounding to the body still leaves you needing to ground the body to the battery up front where you have the same dilemma of the elements but with thinner metal of the body. Running a ground to the front is also an option but the + and - runs will need to be upsized if you are not going to use the frame. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 ^^^ What he said. If you live close to salt water and have high humidity you could even add zinc bars to your frame which will help limit the corrosion of the wire. Big steel ships do this so the steel hulls dont rust as fast. Another great idea is to cover any exposed wire and bolts used to mount the wire to the frame with rust inhibitor primer and paint which will additional slow corrosion. Grounds bolted to the frame are often better than grounds bolted to the chassis. However in some cases even a chassis bolted ground can be better than running a ground wire from your front battery to your rear battery. It has been tested and proved. The steel frame and chassis is more area than a piece of wire so resistance is kept lower, but you need to upgrade the ground wires not only in the back, but in the front too. If it is a crazy huge system and your drawing 500+ amps of current then it is wise to do frame grounds plus additional runs of wire. The solid core wire you are using is most likely corroding faster because you are bending it and putting stress on the wire and possibly even mirco-cracks in it that you can not see. The resistance you mentioned dont mean much since that is the resistance of the wire without current being applied and will increase dramatically when the wire is energized Plus at 1000 feet lengths you would have to fraction that down (unless your running 1 piece of wire that long)... Even still that small of a difference between the 2 wires is so small it would make no difference especially once you scale it down to actual lengths that you are using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratski Posted January 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 So what I came up with is I think I'm going to strap my cab a couple times. And ground through the cab. The wire resistance should be directly proportional as current is applied but that's a whole another topic. So for my setup I have two 1/0 power and grounds for my bass stage that is fused through two 200 amp breakers and my highs have single 1/0 runs through an 80 amp breaker. All my charging and battery grounds are 1/0 as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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