ALDJ253 Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 I am going to be getting a new mono amp for my subs, and the power it draws will require me to get new power and ground wires. I have no idea if I would ever add a second amp to my system (4-channel for the comps up front, and coaxs in the rear doors). I was told that doing 0 gauge to 4 gauge via distro block near the amp is going to be more efficient and beneficial for my car's stock electrical system. I plan on pushing around 1000 watts RMS through an Alphard Audio Machete 1500 at 2 ohms for a future 12 XFL install. I was looking at the pricing for the knuconceptz fleks amp kits, and the 4 gauge is $60, single 0 gauge is $99 + price for either a distro block to 4 gauge (or a reducer), and the 0 gauge to dual 4 gauge with included distro block is $130. I am trying to save as much money as I can, and doing a straight 4 gauge run can potentially save me at least $70. Is there any reason to do 0 gauge to 4 gauge near the amp (or reducer) over a straight 4 gauge run from the battery to the amp (which only accepts up to 4 gauge)? Edit: MAchete amp or the Alpine MRX-M110 amp for the speaker level inputs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 The 1/0 will have less resistance overall allowing more efficient current flow, and also leave you capable to upgrade to a somewhat larger system in the future. You might not plan on it now, but at some point we all want more SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALDJ253 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 2 hours ago, reedal said: The 1/0 will have less resistance overall allowing more efficient current flow, and also leave you capable to upgrade to a somewhat larger system in the future. You might not plan on it now, but at some point we all want more Yeah, the more I find out what stuff I want, it changes, lol. So, you are saying do the dual amp kit for the 1/0 to dual 4 gauge then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 It will cost a little more, but have 1/0 as your main runs and then dropping to four gauge from a distribution point for a short distance will be more beneficial in the long run. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALDJ253 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 11 minutes ago, reedal said: It will cost a little more, but have 1/0 as your main runs and then dropping to four gauge from a distribution point for a short distance will be more beneficial in the long run. Okay makes sense. And same goes for the LC7i? Or should the LC2i suffice? Edit: Also, would you just do the Knuconceptz kit, or would you say do EB Flex 2/0 wire for the power wire to the distro block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Id do the 7i because im not a fan of stock mids and highs and would want a two or four channel amp to replace the door speakers, or just swap the HU completely and not use a LOC. your wire choice is up to you. If you go with EB or some other brand, you can cut it to the length you need. Going with a kit, its already precut, sometimes its already got lugs on the wire ends, and it may be too much or not enough for your needs. Just comes down to what you want to do SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALDJ253 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 16 minutes ago, reedal said: Id do the 7i because im not a fan of stock mids and highs and would want a two or four channel amp to replace the door speakers, or just swap the HU completely and not use a LOC. your wire choice is up to you. If you go with EB or some other brand, you can cut it to the length you need. Going with a kit, its already precut, sometimes its already got lugs on the wire ends, and it may be too much or not enough for your needs. Just comes down to what you want to do I wish I could easily replace the head unit... The damn 2004 Acura TSX (both navi and non-navi) have the climate controls built into the unit... I have seen people put single dins right under the navi, inside of the pocket compartment. I have been debating about doing this, considering the price of the LC7i Hmm, I will try piecing parts together to see how much the EB flex would be, crimping and solder/torch costs included. Might be worth it, just to have those tools laying around for future needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkarredSierra Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 A hydraulic crimper is all you need. No soder required if crimped properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALDJ253 Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 1 hour ago, mathewyocham said: A hydraulic crimper is all you need. No soder required if crimped properly. Oh, the hydraulic crimper? I think I saw one once in a video. Okay, do you have any good ones in mind? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkarredSierra Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 http://m.ebay.com/itm/10-Ton-Hydraulic-Crimper-Crimping-Tool-w-9-Dies-Wire-Battery-Cable-Lug-Terminal-/300991159574?nav=SEARCH This is the one i have. Works great on 8 to 0 gauge. Should work fine for 2/0 gauge too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.