Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

4th order-care to explain?


Recommended Posts

what are some of the pros and cons... i have an extra sub laying around the hits pretty hard for 200 rms its a rockford fos punch he or hi 8ohm 12, i build it and give it to some random kid that wants some BASSSSSS

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWd1ShRnPbDG9ppgJKpumdA <---- show some love to my channel

Alpine MRH-F255 (old school), sub channel not used

Skar audio VX35-ST tweets in front  (invest in them they are worth it)

kicker zr120- nice underrated amp

Powerbass s1204 subwoofer in a 1.75 custom slot ported enclosure tuned to 30hz

Front doors Prv 6mb200s 8ohm

Alpine type-e 5.25 in dash took a shave and a hair cut.....- not in use

Rear doors alpine 6.5's model/series unknown but they are loud as hell

Factory alt

3.5 farad cap, does the job for now.

Deck is a pioneer mixtrax 700bt model

And my baby my Pioneer EQ-6500 i got for 10.00

Back-up amps- Ma Audio 598i, kicker zr120, my highly under rated JBL LC-A502 1xx watt amp...

On the side- Quantum tweets not yet installed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pro - larger passband, can obtain a flatter reponse

con - steeper roll off, eats softies if sealed is too big

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

My Official Feedback Thread

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how do you calculate a 4th order?

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWd1ShRnPbDG9ppgJKpumdA <---- show some love to my channel

Alpine MRH-F255 (old school), sub channel not used

Skar audio VX35-ST tweets in front  (invest in them they are worth it)

kicker zr120- nice underrated amp

Powerbass s1204 subwoofer in a 1.75 custom slot ported enclosure tuned to 30hz

Front doors Prv 6mb200s 8ohm

Alpine type-e 5.25 in dash took a shave and a hair cut.....- not in use

Rear doors alpine 6.5's model/series unknown but they are loud as hell

Factory alt

3.5 farad cap, does the job for now.

Deck is a pioneer mixtrax 700bt model

And my baby my Pioneer EQ-6500 i got for 10.00

Back-up amps- Ma Audio 598i, kicker zr120, my highly under rated JBL LC-A502 1xx watt amp...

On the side- Quantum tweets not yet installed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, bluegmcjimmy said:

what are some of the pros and cons... i have an extra sub laying around the hits pretty hard for 200 rms its a rockford fos punch he or hi 8ohm 12, i build it and give it to some random kid that wants some BASSSSSS

 

4th bandpass boxes need to be designed and built carefully and often will need further mods to get to work as expected, you will usually need solid midbass on your front stage for it to work really nicely, unless you are willing to spend extra time / work just do ported, it does what's expected to do the first time and it's easy to build.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, Joe X said:

 

4th bandpass boxes need to be designed and built carefully and often will need further mods to get to work as expected, you will usually need solid midbass on your front stage for it to work really nicely, unless you are willing to spend extra time / work just do ported, it does what's expected to do the first time and it's easy to build.

i heard about you actually i read it on here, they said you do nice boxes.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWd1ShRnPbDG9ppgJKpumdA <---- show some love to my channel

Alpine MRH-F255 (old school), sub channel not used

Skar audio VX35-ST tweets in front  (invest in them they are worth it)

kicker zr120- nice underrated amp

Powerbass s1204 subwoofer in a 1.75 custom slot ported enclosure tuned to 30hz

Front doors Prv 6mb200s 8ohm

Alpine type-e 5.25 in dash took a shave and a hair cut.....- not in use

Rear doors alpine 6.5's model/series unknown but they are loud as hell

Factory alt

3.5 farad cap, does the job for now.

Deck is a pioneer mixtrax 700bt model

And my baby my Pioneer EQ-6500 i got for 10.00

Back-up amps- Ma Audio 598i, kicker zr120, my highly under rated JBL LC-A502 1xx watt amp...

On the side- Quantum tweets not yet installed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Joe X hit the nail on the head, you would be wise to consider his advice.  

The one big advantage 4th order bandpass boxes have is they push all the output through the port, this can be really handy in certain situations (blow throughs, firewalled trunks, etc).  If you don't need that capability a ported box is going to be better 99% of the time.

If you want to build a bandpass box just to experiment, that's perfectly understandable.  I can give you my 4th order design philosophy if you want, its SIGNIFICANTLY more involved than designing a ported box though. 

 

 

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Triticum Agricolam said:

Joe X hit the nail on the head, you would be wise to consider his advice.  

The one big advantage 4th order bandpass boxes have is they push all the output through the port, this can be really handy in certain situations (blow throughs, firewalled trunks, etc).  If you don't need that capability a ported box is going to be better 99% of the time.

If you want to build a bandpass box just to experiment, that's perfectly understandable.  I can give you my 4th order design philosophy if you want, its SIGNIFICANTLY more involved than designing a ported box though. 

 

 

yes i would like that, i just have a perfect good sub just sitting doing nothing, it is worthy of being used.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWd1ShRnPbDG9ppgJKpumdA <---- show some love to my channel

Alpine MRH-F255 (old school), sub channel not used

Skar audio VX35-ST tweets in front  (invest in them they are worth it)

kicker zr120- nice underrated amp

Powerbass s1204 subwoofer in a 1.75 custom slot ported enclosure tuned to 30hz

Front doors Prv 6mb200s 8ohm

Alpine type-e 5.25 in dash took a shave and a hair cut.....- not in use

Rear doors alpine 6.5's model/series unknown but they are loud as hell

Factory alt

3.5 farad cap, does the job for now.

Deck is a pioneer mixtrax 700bt model

And my baby my Pioneer EQ-6500 i got for 10.00

Back-up amps- Ma Audio 598i, kicker zr120, my highly under rated JBL LC-A502 1xx watt amp...

On the side- Quantum tweets not yet installed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, bluegmcjimmy said:

yes i would like that, i just have a perfect good sub just sitting doing nothing, it is worthy of being used.

Here ya go:

First start with the rear chamber. The rear chamber determines what output you are going to get and controls cone excursion below the tuning frequency of the front chamber. The bigger you make the rear chamber, the more low end output you will get and the lower your sealed resonant frequency will be, but as you make it bigger your cone excursion goes up too. It's a balancing act to try to make the rear chamber as big as you can to get the most output, but without having it be so big your subs destroy themselves the first time you play a low note at war volume. The manufactured recommended sealed box size is a decent starting point for rear chamber sizing, but you still need to check and see what you get.
 
The front chamber size determines what output you will get around the tuning frequency.  Bandpass boxes let you trade efficiency for bandwidth and vice-versa.  The bigger you make it the more output you get, however you only get output over a limited frequency range. Make the front chamber too big and you get a one-note-wonder. Just how big you should make it depends on the parameters of your subs.  Some subs will give you wider bandwidth than others will using the same size front chamber. Subs with lower QTS and/or Vas will be more peaky than subs with higher QTS and/or Vas, this will make some subs inappropriate for 4th order bandpass box usage. Just how peaky you want the output to be depends on your personal goals and listening tastes.  Everything is a trade off. 
 
When it comes to the tuning of the front chamber you can move the tuning around a bit to get the frequency response you want, but generally you will get best performance with it being near the sealed chamber resonance, this is another reason why its a good idea to keep an eye on your sealed chamber resonance when sizing your rear chamber. Its a good idea to make your front chamber port adjustable so you can tweak the tuning a bit when you get it in the vehicle. Tuning frequency on paper doesn't always work out to what you get in practice and you may want to shift your passband up or down a bit to fit your listening tastes.
 
In terms of port area for the front chamber, you need to have a lot.  All of the output has to come out of that port, so you don't want to lose output to air resistance due to an undersized port.  At 30+ m/sec you can lose half, or more, of your output to port compression  I try to keep port velocity under 20 m/sec if at all possible, though it may not always be.  Depending on how much power is going to be used, this can require ports as big as 1/2 the cone area.
 
A lot of people try to really over-simplify bandpass box design, this leads to shortcuts like using "ratios" that will often bite you in the ass. In my opinion, acoustic modeling software (WinISD, BassBoxPro, TermPro, HornResp, etc) is a must for bandpass box design. Otherwise you are just taking shots in the dark, you may be know which direction you are shooting towards, but without software you can't see where you are hitting until the box is complete. It takes some experience to use the software well and to know how to interpret the results, but this still a whole lot better than trial and error.  

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do all sealed chamber sizes reflect the same resonant tuning no matter the sub? Is it unusual to see sealed chamber size larger than the ported side? Can tuning the ported chamber higher than the sealed increase ouput? Thanks for any responses

 

2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan

Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System

1994 Ford Bronco

Dual head unit (i kno)

Sony door speakers

Kenwood Rear Speakers

Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10"

https://m.facebook.com/WinnsCustomCarAudio/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 299 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...