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Any input on the new RE XXXv2?


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Personally I would go a different route. Can get a much better woofer for what you are paying on the XXX 

Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born.

My penis is bigger than your penis

I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle.

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Do you have any suggestions? I want a sub that is made to kill the lows but I do know that the enclosure also plays a big part in that as well but the Fs on the XXXv2 is like 21hz so I figured that's a good indication of how well it will hit those low notes. Am I incorrect in this assumption? I'm fairly new to car audio but I've done some research so if you could throw some suggestions out there for other subs known to get low it'd be appprexiated. 

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sorry I dont have personal experience either
but they have looked overpriced for a while

for cheaper, you could really get some heavy ass subs directly from the companies u see in the SPL competing lanes such as sundown, digital designs, fi audio, soundqubed
im not saying re audio is not used in competing but this is just my opinion
it is strictly a price point Re audio makes good shit

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17 minutes ago, Chrismctee89 said:

Do you have any suggestions? I want a sub that is made to kill the lows but I do know that the enclosure also plays a big part in that as well but the Fs on the XXXv2 is like 21hz so I figured that's a good indication of how well it will hit those low notes. Am I incorrect in this assumption? I'm fairly new to car audio but I've done some research so if you could throw some suggestions out there for other subs known to get low it'd be appprexiated. 

Like Gunnem said there are a lot of other brands out there. ME personally would go with an Fi SP4.. New are about $500 and take more power and will dig low with no problem and do it all day long...

Playing low doesnt depend on the fs of the sub. Its the enclosure  that will get you to play low. 

Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born.

My penis is bigger than your penis

I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle.

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16 hours ago, Keith77 said:

Like Gunnem said there are a lot of other brands out there. ME personally would go with an Fi SP4.. New are about $500 and take more power and will dig low with no problem and do it all day long...

Playing low doesnt depend on the fs of the sub. Its the enclosure  that will get you to play low. 

Totally agree.

Take a look at those Fi SP4 or S S A Evil. And get the right box for the sub. 

 

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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Thanks for the info that SP4 is interesting and for the price I'm leaning towards that. But with running a sub that requires 3500 watts can anyone give me an idea what all I'm going to have to upgrade electrical wise? I.e. H/O alternator, extra battery in the trunk and upgrade battery under hood? Just wanna make sure I don't have voltage drop and get clean power to my amp. Money isn't an issue so any suggestions would help. Thanks in advance!

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Just because sub says 3500 watts you can throw a good 2000 watt amp at it and shake the foundation with the right box.  250 or higher amp alternator will work. The bigger the better.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/


th_140x100square.jpgMechman_140x100px.JPGDCHome.jpgI

image_url-76414-1423274612_thumb.jpgimage_url-76414-1423320284_thumb.jpg

Pioneer P99RS
Ampere 3800
2-Ampere 125/4
4-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids
4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer

2-5.25 Satori Mids
2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars
2-Hertz Silk tweeters
DC Audio Level 5/12
Skyhigh Wire
Mechman 320
XS Power D3100

MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/

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4 hours ago, Chrismctee89 said:

Thanks for the info that SP4 is interesting and for the price I'm leaning towards that. But with running a sub that requires 3500 watts can anyone give me an idea what all I'm going to have to upgrade electrical wise? I.e. H/O alternator, extra battery in the trunk and upgrade battery under hood? Just wanna make sure I don't have voltage drop and get clean power to my amp. Money isn't an issue so any suggestions would help. Thanks in advance!

The Fi BTL , S S A Zcon , Ascendant Audio Mayhem are 3" coil woofers. They'll be super loud on less power than a SP4. 2000-2500 watts. That's my choice. ?

 

 

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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The old xxx is a ckassic. Its a damn fine driver. But when scott left re, so did i. And ill never leave Atwell (Fi)  imho, for thr cost, there are as good and better drivers as has been stated.

BTL is pricier. Neo and all. I would pick up a mayhem, or sp4. Hell, I'd strongly recommend a havoc on that power.

 Ran my sp4s for years. On low and high power apps. They sounded great on a clamped 2200 each. Pounded. A smaller coil with less moving mass "should" get louder easier. I love mayhems also. Ran 2 sets of those from 10s to 15s. Loved em. You can't go wrong really. 

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