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$60 upgrade went a long way, got me looking at headlight upgrades myself now.

Nav-TV Zen V Audio Interface

AudioControl DM-608

(2) Stevens Audio Neo-Comp Full-Size Horns

(4) Faital Pro 6PR160 6.5"

AudioControl LC-6.1200

(1) Fi Neo 4.7 15" D2 in 3.74 Cubic Feet @ 27.70 Hz

Ampere Audio AA3800.1

Odyssey ODP-AGM48 Battery (Starting)

Odyssey ODX-AGM31 Battery (Trunk)

Big 3 - 2\0 Welding Cable, KnuKonceptz Speaker Wire & 1/0 Power Cable, NVX RCAs, Second Skin (Speaker Tweaker Pads, Damplifier Pro Mat), Diode Dynamics LEDs

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21 minutes ago, jcarter1885 said:

$60 upgrade went a long way, got me looking at headlight upgrades myself now.

I feel it was money well spent for the amount of difference it made.  In my opinion I think every XJ should have the headlight wiring harness upgraded.  2.6+ volts of voltage loss is unacceptable.  For other vehicles its easy to check how much voltage loss you are getting with the stock wiring, if its not a lot there isn't much reason to change the wiring.  

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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  • 7 months later...

Well I'm back in my off season and it time to work on the Jeep again (finally).  I've got some goodies to install that will hopefully make a big difference in how my system sounds.
5a33f6d93247b_2017-12-0809_01_43.jpg.96f0a404e9219f4466e8761aa38f69a1.jpg

 

The plan is to use the MiniDSP to control the crossover points between my tweeters, mids, and subwoofer.  Then I can do time alignment and all that cool stuff.  This means I need to remove the passive crossovers from the mids/tweets and power each thing individually.  That's where the Kenwood 4-channel amp comes in.  The MiniDSP is hopefully going to go under the drivers seat and the 4-channel amp under the passengers seat.

Looks like the MiniDSP should fit.  My carpet is totally gross, thanks to some previous owner, I've tried to clean it but it just didn't make a difference.  I'm OK with it, it would end up looking that way where I live anyway.  
5a33f77d19f53_2017-12-0809_34_48.jpg.c6b5fb3cbe379ad1939c2e6da2342463.jpg

And here is the sub amp and mids/tweets amp.

5a33f78a216fe_2017-12-0809_52_57.jpg.69dcfbcda2f1ae32e8fd5cdfd10ba75b.jpg

Here it is after I got all the wire ran:

5a33f7f442f11_2017-12-1410_08_06.jpg.58e8a0b80c5307909492c6ef5a2bf7bd.jpg

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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I'm making my own RCA interconnect cables.  Its way cheaper and I can get exactly the lengths I need.  These really aren't hard to make if you know how to solder.  

I'm using Canare L-2E5 cable and Rean NYS373 connectors.  The cable has two conductors and is shielded.  High quality cable doesn't have to be large in diameter.  I ground the shield only on the upstream end to hopefully prevent any unwanted noise for ending up down stream.  
Here you can see the conductors and the shield:

5a33f8329cbfd_2017-12-1113_49_03.jpg.2d11eb2f8872aa7e44d774fa608ba007.jpg

Soldering on the end, this was on the downstream side:

5a33f8352f028_2017-12-1113_57_32.jpg.98959d542d2d39a7933d0d4346816725.jpg5a33f837bcd5d_2017-12-1114_02_45.jpg.cbdecedcd68a1058f0111f8fc4b45ca6.jpg

 

Here is the finished cable after I put some techflex on it:

5a33f82ed4059_2017-12-1114_06_18.jpg.3edfaaa1aa946e23793503e5279adaea.jpg

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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Grounding one side and not the other is an interesting tip.  Havent seen that before.  I'll have to try that out when I shorten my bass amp RCAs.

EDIT: Upstream side being the headunit or DSP?

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

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(4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts

Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log

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IG @walledsonic

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1 hour ago, WalledSonic said:

Grounding one side and not the other is an interesting tip.  Havent seen that before.  I'll have to try that out when I shorten my bass amp RCAs.

EDIT: Upstream side being the headunit or DSP?

Between the HU and the DSP, the HU side is grounded.  Between the DSP and the amps, the DSP side is grounded.  

Here is where I learned to make my own RCA's, its a very good how-to: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/remotes-cables-accessories-tweaks/13000-how-solder-illustrated-diy-guide-making-your-own-cables.html

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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1 hour ago, mathewyocham said:

How r u liking the noico deadener? I have been contemplating trying it out. Does it adhere well and hold?

So far it seems to be holding up well.  It was pretty hot this summer so if it was going to come loose under my headliner I probably would have noticed.  

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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