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Mid range suggestions


carsontinsley

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Hey my name is carson and im 17. I have a 2000 cherokee classic with the infinity system package. Right now i have 2 mtx 8" tubes and 4, 5 1/4" kicker coaxial speakers. I have had decided to upgrade what i have. Right now my plan is to get 2 American Bass XFL 10's. So far i have one sub, and waiting to purchase another one. The box im making is going to be ported and i overall need some help with this sort of thing. I want a loud system but nothing too crazy. I wanted to do 4 6.5" mid range speakers and went to skar for that. No clue what i should do for amps for the mid range and the subs. The subs are 1000rms and i was also going to get a new mechman alternator. oI know i sound like a newby cause i am. lol i just need some guidance so if you guys could help me revise my plan and give me your opinion, that would be awesome. also sorry if i posted this in the wrong forum. 

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what car?

what is your budget?

how much power do you want to push max between subs and mids and highs?

 

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

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2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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A 6.5" driver is not a midrange driver. I don't care what the companies call them. 

Just Saying

 

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

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  • 1 year later...

Hi Carson,

A 1000watt RMS on each sub, say you have the 4 ohm dual coil, you can wire the subs in parallel and then each other in parallel to get a 1 ohms load. The best option would be to get a Amp that matches the 2000watt and is stable at 1 ohm. 

If you can’t find a 2000w amp, for your budget you can work the subs independently like each sub in to 2 ohms - in that scenario you will need a 2 amps that drive 1000watts and stable at 2 ohm. In this  scenario the tuning is harder because The subs aren’t 100% equal and matching gains can be time consuming.

Regarding the frons/rear speakers depend on how you like your sound, you should consider that you will be having a huge base, so front and rear need to be able  to compensate for that. Say you will be aimin for a 30% of sound on your mids and 70% on the subs - 2000RMS / 0.7 = 2857 RMS Watts. This means you will need about 850 Watts RMS on your front and rear .

 

hope this helps

—————————————————————————————————————

HU - Alpine - CDA-9887R

Changer - Alpine - CHA-S624

Amp - RF - R600x5

Front Speakers - RF - P165-SI + Alpine SPG-10C2

Rear Speakers - RF - P1650

Sub - RF - P2D4-10 on Vented Box 

 

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Hi again,

forgot to say that the 850 warm is the total wattage for all 4 speakers you should use, meaning each set (speaker + tweeter ) have around 220 Watts RMS.

Movepage

—————————————————————————————————————

HU - Alpine - CDA-9887R

Changer - Alpine - CHA-S624

Amp - RF - R600x5

Front Speakers - RF - P165-SI + Alpine SPG-10C2

Rear Speakers - RF - P1650

Sub - RF - P2D4-10 on Vented Box 

 

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