06RTCharger noobs first ever build

[06RTCharger]

Close up halfway through

[06RTCharger]

After two hours of lil handsawing, it finally cut through. I have no clue why this blade didnt loose its teeth like the oscillating tool and jigsaw but im glad it worked.

[06RTCharger]

Here is why i needed to do that. You can see how the normal size allen wrench couldn't fit. Even the short one barely slips in.

 

 

Heres how it fits now and i can tighten it. It wouldve been way easier if i had an xs battery or the JY liths i want, but im not at that point yet.

 

[06RTCharger]

Spent about an hour trying to figure out where to add my new ground under the trunk. Then it hit me, i dont need one! My whole system is going to be connected dirrectly to the battery/distroblock for power AND ground. My headunit, alternator, and all amps will have a wired connection right to the battery (using distros). So for good measure i just decided to upgrade the stock battery ground to 1/0 awg and just used a wire brush to clean up the stock ground stud and added some dielectric grease. 

Heres the first connection! So stoked for this lil wire lol.

 

Another shitty thing about these jims machineworx terminals is they use some huge ass 3/8 bolts. SMD distros have 5/16 bolts or maybe smaller, so all my lugs have a 5/16 bolt hole. Had to drill a bigger bolt hole in my nice tinned copper lugs, bare copper exposed so i also added some dielectric greases to the lugs hole to protect the lug from corrosion. 

[Crazy 8s Drums]

You could have just drilled a slightly larger hole in the terminal tightening spot and used a bolt and nut to tighten it.  You could still do it, and you might want to because you might lose that allen wrench you sawed through.

[06RTCharger]

I didnt think of that, good idea tho. I had even tried to thread some bolts i had on hand but were too big/wrong thread rate? never thought to just drill it bigger. Should be fine for now, i dont plan on removing the battery terminals any time soon. Probably not till i change batteries, then ill have a battery with a better top post that isnt blocked by the design of the battery like these are. 

 

[06RTCharger]

ITS ALIVE!!!!

Got my extension on the stock alt wire with heavy duty butt connectors, double-spot hydro crimped both sides of the connector. Then put some adhesive lined heatshrink over all wire connectiions, then some techflex, then some of my custom heatshrinks. 

Also put that wire bundle wrap over my stock wire harness that goes into the trunk.

Did my lil prechecks of the fluids, and added some royal purple fuel system cleaner and stabilizer and 5gals of fresh gas. 

Started right up! SO STOKED when i heard the engine running again lol. 

Here u can see the thick black bundle on the left/center, thats the wire wraps, velcros around the bundle. The black and white swirl is the stock alt wire.

You can see thru the techflex where i have the buttconnector. Also im thinking about fusing that stock alt wire, but the stock didnt have a fuse? I would think that most of the current is flowing thru my 4/0 anyway right, being that the 4/0 would be the path of least resistance. Maybe ill get a amperage clamp adapter for my Fluke and see how much power is running thru that stock 1awg wire now, im thinking its just for the lil extra stuff thats tied into the alternator wire in the engine bay.

Theres the whole trunk now. Its comin along, soooooooo close to having some type of musical sound lol.

 

 

[06RTCharger]

after i let it run for a while i started to install the dashbezel and radio bracket and check to make sure the ac and hazard lights and stuff work. Its all good. I still got a couple gauge cluster lights on tho. The alt light and the "ESP BAS" light. Gonna try to figure those out now.

[Markous]

Really dig that techflex! i'd go that route but my wiring looks pretty sharp just rocking the split loom.

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

The can bus system dodge uses is really sensitive.

First thing to try is to disconnect all power, then hook the factory power and ground wires together for 15 mintues, that will reset the ecu.

Again, Make sure all power is disconnected.

Then hook them back up, if that doesnt do the trick you'll probably have to take it in and have the dealer or an auto electric place take a look at it.

There is also a guage cluster test too, but if you arent having any other issues with the cluster im sure its fine.

 

When my caliber did that i ended up having to replace the fuse box and some of the harness up under the dash to fix it.

Had no issues until it sat dead for a few weeks.

Long story short i keep it on a charger when im not driving it now.