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I just thought of something else too, you could need to relearn the steering angle sensor, with no power for so long it could have lost its stores memory for the sterring wheel positions.

You can find a how to online with a quick google search.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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6 hours ago, Broke_Audio_Addict said:

I just thought of something else too, you could need to relearn the steering angle sensor, with no power for so long it could have lost its stores memory for the sterring wheel positions.

You can find a how to online with a quick google search.

Yah i tried that recalibrate thing several times last night and a couple other tricks on youtube, but none worked. Driving lastnight i also noticed its not going out of first gear and wont let me use the tap-shift thing to change gears. From what i read, its in "limp-mode" or like a safe mode where u cant go over 30-40mph. Ill try that discconect and reconnect thing too tonight after work; thanks. 

Gonna try to hook up my OBD WIFI thing to see if i can figure something out. I got that BlueDriver wifi device from my truck but havent used it yet, gonna try it on the charger.

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Leave it to the noob to unplug shit and leave it in the garage thinking its not gonna be used anymore....

i thought this black thing was part of the stock amp, like maybe a lil dsp of some sort....nope, thats the fkn TCM transmission control module. I was driving around with that shit sitting on the shelves in the garage lmao wondering why i got warning lights on. 

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Glad i didnt throw this away! So took the TCM off that bracket and pluged it back while batt disconnected. Reconnected battery and started it up....like magic, no lights.

THEN lol a couple minutes of the car running in park a chime comes on and two lights are flashing "BRAKE" and "(ABS)", then a few seconds later they go solid and a third light comes on with them, the ESP BAS Light. So somethng is definatly up with my brakes and i noticed it when i drove it the other night, brakes feel ??sandy??gritty?? Idk how to explain it. 

Found this in the manual, the last paragraph is what makes me think the lil light show on my gauges lol is the EBD failing. But the lights come on then a minute later theyre all off. And it'll happen just in park, not even using the brakes. 

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Idk, gonna do more pondering tomorrow, tryna avoid taking it to a service station. Is there anyway its just due to how dirty my rotors are from sitting for 4 months? Almost looks rusty lol

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Good move, lol.

Some of those systems can only be reset by the dealer, youre probably gonna have to take it in as much as you dont want to.

It doesnt just look like rust, it is rust.

Iron will surface rust really fast, like within hours.

All that should burn off once you start driving it though.

 

Like i said, i had similar issues and it ended up being an electrical problem.

Either find a good auto electric place or take it to the dealer, dont keep fucking wirh it and potentially make it worse.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Got the headunit, mosconi AS200.2 and L8SE's in tonight! All temporary tho! I just wanted to HEAR some sound coming from the Charger already, it was killin me lol. 

After the PAC issue i got the headunit workin. Then had to work on the amp turn on wire because i have a breaker inline with that wire and it wasnt working but i got it figured out. Then buttoned up the dashbezels and reinstalled the middle consoles. Hooked up the amp and made sure the amp turns on with ACC. Then i used my DD1+ to find the max volume average from through the amps output. 1khz was 62/62 no distortions, but 40hz the distorion light would flash once soon as i turned it to 62 then the LED would turn off immidiatly. But if i turn it down one from there (61) then the light would flash again and 60 wouldnt then go up one and it doesnt flash(61) lol the flashes again on 62. But the light never stays on. 

Then i set the gain with it too. Is 3db of overlap too much or too little for a 8inch midbass? I have the highpass at 40hz@24db/octave (HAT recommended crossover)  and lowpass at 3.15khz@24db/octave (frequency response is 40hz-3800hz per specs) 

honestly didnt sound too great because of the HUGE holes in these doors as the sounds of small metal parts vibrating, ill be deadening the doors next and making a panel to cover those huge holes. But i could tell there was LOTS of bass being lost by the feel of the air blowing on me from the door holes lol. 

Also have to learn a lil about trying to EQ a system. Any EQing tips would be appreciated. Like what makes u want to add or minus the db level? I understand the rta part and getting a flat reading on the RTA as a starting point. But what are u normally looking for when creating a "EQ curve" by raising or lowering the levels. 

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Sooooooooo fkn stoked to hear some music coming from the Charger lol even tho its all fkd up still. 

 

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Also had to remove all my tape and heatshirnks from the RCAs because i didnt realize the housing of the actual plug is a screwdown/tightening mechanism. I thought the housings were all loose so i tiwsted the housings till it was tight and taped it in a direction to make sure it doesnt unscrew again. Then when i tried to plug the rcas into the headunit, it wouldnt fit. Turns out the way it works is u unscrew the rca housing so its loose and u can plug it in easily, then u twist the housing till it tightens down and that squeezes down on the rca u connnected to so that it wont slide off easily. To remove the rca u have to unscrew the rca housing a bit then it will unplug. Pretty cool actually, just wish i wouldve known that before so i didnt waste my time taping, heatshrinkint and labeling all 16 rca ends, just so that i have  to cut it all off now smh lol.

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Starting to seal up the front doors. Door panels been of for seems like a year already lol so i just started with the OEM wire harness. Removed the whole harness out from the door boot and removed the wornout tape they use and retaped it with some exterior tesa tape. Also removed any retaining clips to eliminate rattles. Using some extra scraps of damp pro to secure the harness out of the way of any moving parts.

before

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After

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Then startd figuring out how to seal this big hole. And went with caraudiofabrications idea of a plastic panel with rivetnuts.

Drilled out my holes, some were existing holes i just had to enlarge a lil so i used those holes too. Then sprayed some rust-oleum spray paint to protect the bare metal.

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My carboard template

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Outlined the template in gray sharpe to make sure i have the right size and shape.

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