darkie14 Posted May 28, 2017 Report Share Posted May 28, 2017 I have a 2013 Ford Escape with the factory 9 speaker SYNC system (not Sony). I installed a RF P2 15" sub along with a Precision Power A404 (old school Art Series amp) and a RF Power 300 (old school) and a RF 3Sixty.3 processor. I used the 3Sixty high level inputs for signal and amp turn on. Everything was fine until the 3Sixty bricked out. I replaced the 3Sixty with an Audio Control LCQ-1. I had zero problems. I sent the 3Sixty back to Rockford (out of warranty) and paid the flat fee for repair. I got a 3Sixty back and reinstalled it. Now I have a serious turn OFF pop. The late model Fords have no 12 volt SWITCHED output that I can find. Ford uses a CANBUS system. The power stays on the processor and amps after you exit the car. The exterior and interior lights stay on after the key is removed. When the interior lights go off there is a loud POP then the power goes off. Then about a minute later the headlights will shut off but when they do the processor comes back on and turns the amps on and then they POP again and shut off. I didn't have this problem with the first 3Sixty or the AC LCQ-1. Did they send me back a bad processor? I tried the turn off delay and that didn't help. There is no audible turn ON noise. Extremely frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebringR/T Posted May 28, 2017 Report Share Posted May 28, 2017 You have to go into th remote settings and set the turn off delay to 8sec. My Ford does the exact same thing. That will fix it. Team Droppin' Hz Tuxedo Black Metallic 2010 Ford Taurus Limited Build Log "Financial Mistake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkie14 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2017 There is no 8 sec. for turn off. There is only 1, 2 ,4. You can set the turn ON up to 8 sec but not the off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebringR/T Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 On 5/28/2017 at 6:08 PM, darkie14 said: There is no 8 sec. for turn off. There is only 1, 2 ,4. You can set the turn ON up to 8 sec but not the off. My bad. I knew there was an 8 sec option. Couldn't remember which one is was on. Set the turn off delay to 4sec if you haven't already. Team Droppin' Hz Tuxedo Black Metallic 2010 Ford Taurus Limited Build Log "Financial Mistake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkie14 Posted May 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 Tried that. No change. The problem is that the cars power stays on the processor and amps after you exit the car. The exterior and interior lights stay on after the key is removed. When the interior lights go off there is a loud POP then the power goes off. Then about a minute later the headlights will shut off but when they do the processor comes back on and turns the amps on and then they POP again and shut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 Are you using a +12v for turn on/off or using the input sensing turn on/off? and what are you using for your amps? F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkie14 Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 I am using input input sensing. I did find a 12 volt switched outlet in the rear fuse box but it had no affect on the pop. It still stays hot until the lights go out. The radio shuts off when you open the door but it also comes on and shows the Ford splash screen if you open any door after all of the power is off. I need to find a way to kill the power until the car is put into accessory or started. The pop is so loud I am afraid its going to damage the speakers. I tried hooking up my LCQ-1 back up and using it to power up the 3Sixty but it did the same thing. If I unhook the 3Sixty and hook up the LCQ-1 there is no pop. I think my refurbished 3Sixty is bad. I am using a Precision Power Art Series A404.2 for the highs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 use a switch to kill power. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Or find a keyed off source. There has to be one. Has to be.. get meter, and find one SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Keyed power source and If necessary a relay. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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