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Changing alternator pulley to a smaller one to increase amps


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question: will changing the stock pulley on my stock alternator to a smaller one increase the amperage at lower RPM and idle?

is it worth doing? will there be a benefit? will the benefit be noticeable and justify the price it will cost me to do the work and install?  are there any downsides like belt issues , etc.?

Im trying to get my alternator to pump out as many amps possible without me having to drive at highway speeds...

 

thanks

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Normally a stock or OEM alt is made to do better at idle. But less peak. Could you gain a few amps, meh.. maybe, .... but a oem alt can only do so much, no matter how fast you spin it. Yes, it could effect belt length, smaller diameter, could change belt length needed, but a tensioner may take that up. Is it worth it? Wouldnt be to me, but it may be to you. I dont think you see all that much. Spin it to fast, and you will throw a code, and possibly fuck it up also. All that for what.... 20, 30 more amps? at idle, and no gain on peak..... meh..... but its up to you. Why not get a aftermarket HO alt ?

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my car a 2010 genesis coupe 2.0 unfortunately does not have many H/O alt options. so i am forced to do ghetto little upgrades like small pulley etc in hopes i can get more out of it.

when i made the calls to almost all the h/o makers. i found only 2 guys to make them. one was Quality power and the other was ohio generator.

I have heard bad things about both companies , esp quality power.. but i was actually going to start a thread asking for recent reviews and opinion on ohio gen alternators because i may go that route if i hear enough good things about them..

 

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I would do ohio gen outta the two. I wouldnt even speak to quality power,or who ever that is.... just me.  Sucks, some rigs dont have aftermarket support.

 Your stock alt, spinning at 4 million rpm, is still capped. Will it turn on "sooner" with a smaller pulley, ... yes. But, will you see a significant gain? No. Just rev it for now while demoing. Most do anyway. Our large cases turn on at 600 rpm, but we still use a throttle cable when parked and demoing to adjust the revs to around 1200. And then, to 2k in the lanes. 

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5 minutes ago, Kyblack76 said:

I would do ohio gen outta the two. I wouldnt even speak to quality power,or who ever that is.... just me.  Sucks, some rigs dont have aftermarket support.

 Your stock alt, spinning at 4 million rpm, is still capped. Will it turn on "sooner" with a smaller pulley, ... yes. But, will you see a significant gain? No. Just rev it for now while demoing. Most do anyway. Our large cases turn on at 600 rpm, but we still use a throttle cable when parked and demoing to adjust the revs to around 1200. And then, to 2k in the lanes. 

with these h/o alts that do 220-300amps.. at what RPM do they do that at? and what do they do at idle?

on a side note.. i BELIEVE my voltage issue is causing some clipping which is either making the amp smell or the sub.. but heres what happens.. there will be a faint smell when playing something loud then as soon as i turn the music down  or after the song is done which could be over a min to a few mins.. once the volume is low, the smell gets MUCH stronger..

why is that and is it coming from my amp or sub?

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Depends on the alt yo.. Normally a higher peak, yields a lower idle out put, and vice versa, all depends on what case. Our turn on SILLY low, we ordered em like that, but, they dont make a ton on the top end. We wanted idle output. So, thats what i had Mike build us.  If your dropping that low (how low are you dropping?) then retune to THAT voltage if you think low voltage is causing clipping.  We tune with the truck off, ... at 17 volts, cuz thats where we REST at. We charge at 17.8 . To me, it just sounds like your clipping all around. Low voltage or not. 

 

EDIT- the smell gets stronger when the driver is not moving maybe, due to it not cooling, and just letting off heat. With it wanging, its cooling, (as it should) and the smell is there, just not as strong with it getting blown out the port, and moving. Fuck, i dont know, ive got a driver to smell twice in my life, and i damn sure knew why LOL. 

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Sounds like u want your alternator to get red hot call Ohio generator, smaller pulley could cause over charge which may melt wires and fry computers.  My 250 does 180 at idle and if your demoing just step on the gas alittle.

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Is there room to fit a second alt?

if so you could get a custom bracket made and throw in a gm large case alt with an external regulator to power your system.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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7 hours ago, Kyblack76 said:

Depends on the alt yo.. Normally a higher peak, yields a lower idle out put, and vice versa, all depends on what case. Our turn on SILLY low, we ordered em like that, but, they dont make a ton on the top end. We wanted idle output. So, thats what i had Mike build us.  If your dropping that low (how low are you dropping?) then retune to THAT voltage if you think low voltage is causing clipping.  We tune with the truck off, ... at 17 volts, cuz thats where we REST at. We charge at 17.8 . To me, it just sounds like your clipping all around. Low voltage or not. 

 

EDIT- the smell gets stronger when the driver is not moving maybe, due to it not cooling, and just letting off heat. With it wanging, its cooling, (as it should) and the smell is there, just not as strong with it getting blown out the port, and moving. Fuck, i dont know, ive got a driver to smell twice in my life, and i damn sure knew why LOL. 

Tuning at rest at 0db or a -db overlap? I like where you going 

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