Running wire from alternator directly to rear bank

[RedFred]

So I've got this Suburban with 3 Finishline 200A alternators under the hood, then 4 huge NSB 480 looking batteries in the rear.

As I bought the vehicle, there are currently only 4 runs total of 1/0 wire (2 for positive from the front battery, then 2 negatives grounded to the vehicle rear).

For 600A that seems like too little wire to me. Is that the case? I was thinking I should have atleast 4.

As you can see, my battery terminals are pretty much full, so I'm looking for other options.

Is there any reason NOT to just run from the alternators to the rear bank?

There are currently zero fuses in this vehicle, if that matters at all.

On a similar note, how many runs of wire would you guys run for the following alternator power?

1) 600 amps

2) 940 amps

Thanks for any and all your help guys. Always learning a ton here!

[Soundfreezer79]

You need fuses. Fuse every hot point, close to it's origin.

[RedFred]

6 minutes ago, Soundfreezer79 said:

You need fuses. Fuse every hot point, close to it's origin.

[ChevyBoy95]

I have a 270a alt and a 320a alt and have 4 runs of 2/0 positive alone, with 7 rear frame grounds and 5 up front (steel frame truck so no full length).

[ChevyBoy95]

For 940a, I personally would have 6 1/0 positives going to the rear bank or more.

[RedFred]

2 hours ago, ChevyBoy95 said:

I have a 270a alt and a 320a alt and have 4 runs of 2/0 positive alone, with 7 rear frame grounds and 5 up front (steel frame truck so no full length).

Do you see any reason that they should all hit the front battery? Or do you think I can run straight from the alternators to the rear bank?

[06RTCharger]

Hardcore right there, no fuses with all that power. 

[Kyblack76]

2 hours ago, RedFred said:

Do you see any reason that they should all hit the front battery? Or do you think I can run straight from the alternators to the rear bank?

In my blazer build, I ran 4 runs directly from the alts, to the rear bank, then a single run back to the front bat. 

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

Don't drive it anywhere until you get the fuses for the runs. If it got "T" boned it would burn down for sure. I'm not sure how much room you have, but there might be a way to make a buss bar for the back of the alternators to bolt all the runs to. Get yourself a hydraulic crimper and use ring terminal lugs on everything. Those set screw terminal connections will fail especially under hood. There is a thread somewhere about the crimper I will see if I can find it. 

[Kyblack76]

Im the guy that dont fuse many things, others do,... but, a run of wire running the entire length of the rig, not fused, is full retard.... lazy even imho. But its your rig/choice.

And this from the guy on the forum that giggles at fusing amp runs (if short) and alt to front (if short) bat runs......

I do know a couple dudes that dont fuse anything, not even their FtR runs tho, and have ran that way for years. Just seems like a "when, not if" type of deal to me though, and shit, its easy, and cheap to do. But whatevs, its your rig. 

 

I had a OH SHIT moment in the blazer. (shit, i think i started a thread on it somewhere on here)

 One of the runs snapped the tie straps on the frame, and then proceeded to rub its self bare on the rear tire when the suspension would cycle deep. I drove it a state away for a comp, and when i got there, i did a quick look around before hitting the lanes, and found a fuse blown, both up front, and in the rear, both blown to shit. Then discovered the run that had been rubbed clean and directly on the frame. Tripped me out.  If i had not had fuses on that run, the blazer would have been a pile of ashes. Some scary shit. All that money, time, hard work, on the side of the road burning because of a 3 dollar fuse and holder. Yup, fuck that.