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Need knowledge and recommendations for new system


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Hey guys I have a list of questions that I seem to find a mix of answers for when browsing Google so I thought I could narrow them down and ask them here. Maybe ya'll can help me.

Anyways I'm currently in the process of upgrading my car audio system and like I said before I have ALOT of questions.

 

Vehicle:

2005 Toyota Tacoma Crew Cab

Current Setup:

(Yes I know its shit that's why I'm upgrading)

x2 - 15" Kicker Comps @ 250 RMS

x1 - Boss Phantom 1500w wired at 4 OHM

Stock Electrical

 

Upgrading To:

x2 - 15" Sundown Zv5 @ 2000w RMS

x1 - Sundown SCV-6000D wired at 1 OHM

 

My Questions:

1. It might seem obvious but for the money I'm about to chuck out for this system I feel as if I need to ask. Since my truck doesn't have that much air space in it, will this upgrade that I'm doing even sound that great? Yea I know it will be louder than what I currently have but, I don't feel as if my truck will really fully maximize the air space needed for these subs.

2. I'm assuming I wouldn't be able to run this new setup with stock electrical so I was wondering if someone could help me out on what extra batteries/alternators I'll need. I'd like to keep it as cheap as possible.

3. With my electrical question above do I need to go ahead and do the big 3 as well?

4. I don't know how to fabricate a subwoofer box so I will be going to my local audio shop "Hotwired Car Audio", how big of a box will I need and what will I need it tuned to so it will compliment the Zv5's. Also is bigger the box the better? I'd like it to take up my whole back seat if so.

5. I'll be running 1/0 wire for the power and grounds but, I was wondering what size wire for the subs I need to order. I was thinking about 8 gauge but is that overkill?

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1. Not knowledged enough on acoustics to give a beneficial answer to this.

2. Yes you MUST upgrade the electrical or you will damage your gear. Get the biggest alternator you can find that will fit, a reputable solid one not an ebay alt. At bare minimum 2 runs power and ground front to back or if you are unibody and want to chasis ground, still similar number of runs. I would personally run 3 and I bet there are some that would do 4 because the distance and how it could create a good amount of resistance and to combat that. 4 group 31's at minimum, I would run 5 or 6.

3. This is another must, if you used chasis as a ground you would need to have an upgrade front ground as well to be able to utilize it.

4. This you will get many mixes reviews. If you can't build and can't/don't know how to design a box, people will design them for you for fairly cheap, 20-40.

5. That's what I run on a 4k lol

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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15 minutes ago, RooTxBeeR said:

1. Not knowledged enough on acoustics to give a beneficial answer to this.

2. Yes you MUST upgrade the electrical or you will damage your gear. Get the biggest alternator you can find that will fit, a reputable solid one not an ebay alt. At bare minimum 2 runs power and ground front to back or if you are unibody and want to chasis ground, still similar number of runs. I would personally run 3 and I bet there are some that would do 4 because the distance and how it could create a good amount of resistance and to combat that. 4 group 31's at minimum, I would run 5 or 6.

3. This is another must, if you used chasis as a ground you would need to have an upgrade front ground as well to be able to utilize it.

4. This you will get many mixes reviews. If you can't build and can't/don't know how to design a box, people will design them for you for fairly cheap, 20-40.

5. That's what I run on a 4k lol

Thanks for the quick response, I'm still confused on batteries tho. I heard that my batteries have to match or it will mess things up.

Will 2 of these batteries that I'm posting below be suffiecient?

12V AGM Battery, Max Amps 2,600A, CA: 725, Ah: 44, 1500W / 3000W

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It doesn't have to match exactly or else. If you have more than what is required, you just overkillings. Just those batteries would not be enough, they are pretty small. How much room do you have for batteries, you will need a decent amount for all of them. 

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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1 minute ago, RooTxBeeR said:

It doesn't have to match exactly or else. If you have more than what is required, you just overkillings. Just those batteries would not be enough, they are pretty small. How much room do you have for batteries, you will need a decent amount for all of them. 

Depending on the box build I decide on I might be able to fit them in the cab. If the box I get takes up a lot of room I might end up having to put them in the bed of my truck via in a tool box or mounted down and adding a bed cover.

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That can always happen and is possible. You want to have 450-500a of current to be able to to give. Get a 300a alt, itll put out more than likely just over 200 hot, so your left with 250-300 of amperage you still need, and I say add 1 more to get just over that so you have nothing to worry about and can crank for a while. So I would say get 350-400a worth of batteries.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Dj Drake said:

My Questions:

1. It might seem obvious but for the money I'm about to chuck out for this system I feel as if I need to ask. Since my truck doesn't have that much air space in it, will this upgrade that I'm doing even sound that great? Yea I know it will be louder than what I currently have but, I don't feel as if my truck will really fully maximize the air space needed for these subs.

2. I'm assuming I wouldn't be able to run this new setup with stock electrical so I was wondering if someone could help me out on what extra batteries/alternators I'll need. I'd like to keep it as cheap as possible.

3. With my electrical question above do I need to go ahead and do the big 3 as well?

4. I don't know how to fabricate a subwoofer box so I will be going to my local audio shop "Hotwired Car Audio", how big of a box will I need and what will I need it tuned to so it will compliment the Zv5's. Also is bigger the box the better? I'd like it to take up my whole back seat if so.

5. I'll be running 1/0 wire for the power and grounds but, I was wondering what size wire for the subs I need to order. I was thinking about 8 gauge but is that overkill?

Properly installed, tuned, and in the right enclosure, you will see a tremendous difference in the new setup.

a rule of thumb for the amount of batteries you need (rule of thumbs aren't always accurate) is 100aH of battery for every 1000w. That's playing it on the safe side in my opinion. They don't have to be XS or another big brand, but remember, you get what you pay for. As for an alt, pick one that has high idle output. Typically a hairpin alt. My two singer Alts both have 200+ max amps at idle. One is 270A and the other is 370A. You could probably get away with a single 370A alt as long as it has good idle output. Check with Singer Alts, mechman, DC Power inc, US Alts, JS Ultimate.

yes, you should do the big three when doing any kind of electrical upgrade/adding aftermarket electronics. Stock wiring is only good for stock electronics. Use 1/0 or bigger gauge wire, like you say you are going to. Multiple runs of 1/0 is cheaper and easier to run than a single larger wire, and has more ampacity.

first, don't put your enclosure in your back seat. It's a safety hazard to you and any passenger, as an accident will cause it to fly into the back of your seat, and that's a lot of weight hitting it. Bigger does not mean better. You need a design tailored to the subs specs, and your listening wants. Start a thread in the Subwoofers/Enclosures section and list the subs, amp, available space dimensions, music you listen to, and what you think you want it tuned to. There's a few great enclosure designers who will help you out.

As long as the 8ga wire fits in the terminals of the sub and amp, there's no reason you can't use it. It's better to have a larger wire than one too small. 

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