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2011 Silverado Crew Cab 6.2L Sundown, XS Power, Mechman Build


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  • 2 weeks later...
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Been busy at work and missing the truck.  Ill try and start upload some of the pictures from the 8 day build.  Also, stay tuned for some changes that are already coming.  Long story short, the box for the E8s was way small and tuned way high, hard to fit 4 8s properly in the space I have so Ill be switching to 2 X8s :)  More details on that coming up.  But for now here are some engine bay pics.  I went with the 250 amp elite self exciting mechman.  Install went pretty smooth.  However, this alternator is said to have same diameter as stock pulley but it is actually just a little smaller.  I originally installed a new gates belt with the same as stock size specs and length and it was just a tad too big.  After a quick drive the tensioner was right on the line of being out of adjustment too loose.  So I switched to one size smaller gates belt and it is now right on the line of being too tight, but no slipping or issues and i think its better to be on the tight side.

Went with the XS power S3400 with a heat wrap.  Fit right in the stock location.  I riveted and added a waterproof circuit breaker behind it to go to the stock fuse box electrical.  All power and grounds were upgraded to mechman 1/0 OFC with the heat resistant tech flex added to it.  Super beefy quality stuff.  I Redid engine block to battery, alternator to battery, and engine block to chassis/body.  Power wire is ran to the back cab and inside the cab with a CE auto electric supply waterproof grommet.  Really clean.  Wish I had a better spot to cleanly mount the fuse for my amps but its pretty solid where its at mounted with zip ties.  Stay tuned for more of the build!

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I'll just keep the pictures coming.  Heres a pic of the very limited space I had to mount those two amps on the back wall.  More on this to come, but making everything clear the back seat, and seat belt, and my rear power window regulator was a real PITA.

The rest of the pics just show my doors for now.  I used a fair amount second skin damplifier pro on each door.  Most of the large solid pieces are on the outer door skin.  Made a huge difference in sound when you close the doors on this truck haha.  All the woofer from my sundown component sets were mounted in the stock locations.  I custom made the speaker adapters for each.  Nothing pretty or perfect, but very very solid and functional, and most importantly, WATERPROOF.  The adapters were made from HDPE black sundboard.  Picked up two big scrap pieces for just 20 bucks from a local plastic warehouse.  Great deal!  This stuff was super easy to work with, I actually prefer it over MDF.  I only have basic hand power tools too.  But this stuff is waterproof, solid (3/4" thick), and already black.  I mounted them with all stainless steel hardware and those screw type rivnuts riveted in to the doors so they are removable.  Super solid.  Also, 12 gauge sundown speaker wire was ran to each of the woofers and used throughout the truck for all the components.  More to come....

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If you ever need to bond hdpe to anything look up TapPlastics. They have this adhesive called polyweld, made specifically for bonding hdpe. Other adhesives wont work; most adhesives are in a container made of hdpe. Found all this out after CA glue wasnt holding at all on my hdpe parts. That poly weld was great though, used it on my door pods.

are you going to make something to cover that huge access hole in the door? Doing so should help alot with ur mid bass. Just make it removeable with the rivets and bolts. Maybe use another sheet of hdpe.

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1 hour ago, 06RTCharger said:

If you ever need to bond hdpe to anything look up TapPlastics. They have this adhesive called polyweld, made specifically for bonding hdpe. Other adhesives wont work; most adhesives are in a container made of hdpe. Found all this out after CA glue wasnt holding at all on my hdpe parts. That poly weld was great though, used it on my door pods.

are you going to make something to cover that huge access hole in the door? Doing so should help alot with ur mid bass. Just make it removeable with the rivets and bolts. Maybe use another sheet of hdpe.

Thanks for the tip.  I'll keep that in mind.  On my previous truck I did just what you suggested and sealed up all the big holes to help with midbass from all my focal speakers.  It was really easy to do on my old truck.  Unfortunately I just couldnt figure it out on this truck in reasonable time.  All this audio stuff already took me like 8 days and I was trying to finish it before returning to work. 

The challenge is chevy built all the interior door panels of this truck with big recesses that fit in to all those big open spaces in the doors.  I was able to cover a few of the smaller holes but the bigger ones cant be covered or the plastic door panel wouldnt be able to go on.  I had a few sheets of different types of plastic I planned on using but wasnt able to.  Could have maybe custom molded something somehow but too much of a hassle for me for this build.  I also have a whole roll of expensive second skin luxury liner pro.  Unfortunately that stuff is so thick I couldnt get any worthwhile big pieces to fit.   I may revisit this later though.  The chevy doors are really solid though when all assembled.  I used the thinner second skin foam stuff everywhere and butyl rope on all the rattling plastic pieces.

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  • 5 months later...
On 9/3/2017 at 11:08 AM, SixTwoRado said:

I'll just keep the pictures coming.  Heres a pic of the very limited space I had to mount those two amps on the back wall.  More on this to come, but making everything clear the back seat, and seat belt, and my rear power window regulator was a real PITA.

The rest of the pics just show my doors for now.  I used a fair amount second skin damplifier pro on each door.  Most of the large solid pieces are on the outer door skin.  Made a huge difference in sound when you close the doors on this truck haha.  All the woofer from my sundown component sets were mounted in the stock locations.  I custom made the speaker adapters for each.  Nothing pretty or perfect, but very very solid and functional, and most importantly, WATERPROOF.  The adapters were made from HDPE black sundboard.  Picked up two big scrap pieces for just 20 bucks from a local plastic warehouse.  Great deal!  This stuff was super easy to work with, I actually prefer it over MDF.  I only have basic hand power tools too.  But this stuff is waterproof, solid (3/4" thick), and already black.  I mounted them with all stainless steel hardware and those screw type rivnuts riveted in to the doors so they are removable.  Super solid.  Also, 12 gauge sundown speaker wire was ran to each of the woofers and used throughout the truck for all the components.  More to come....

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Nice looking build, thanks for using Second Skin Damplifier products. When you get some time, make sure to add a few pictures to a review in our Customer Gallery review page. All entries are entered into our drawings for store credit and Visa gift cards throughout the year. You can submit your review here 

Keep up the great looking work on your build #SMDTFW #SecondSkinForTheWin

Whether you are restoring a classic muscle car, building an audio system monster, or trying to give yourself a bit of silent luxury on your daily commute, we have a product or combination of products that will help you achieve your goals while saving money and save time. Look around our site, educate yourself and make the choice that is right for you.

Over built to over perform - because user error, bad batch, and faulty install are excuses that other companies use!

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  • 4 months later...

WOAH guys!  Just realized I completely forgot about this build thread.  Been really busy actually building the truck for the desert.  Its maybe 25% done haha.  Waiting on the rear end and supercharger then eventually this thing will be getting caged and offroad seats inside and will need the tunes reconfigured and a new box somehow.  However, the interior is going to remain stock how it is for now in the back for another 2-3 years.  Just realized I never even posted a pic of the subs so I'll post that below.

Also, I have a DC power 270xp now on order.  The self exciting 250 elite alternator has not been playing nice with the truck.  Not sure why.  All my grounds and power wires are solid and over the top.  Belt tension is proper with new gates belt, but idle voltage really sucks.  Its up there pretty high, but its constanly fluctuating, so much so that my SMD voltmeter never stay on one light ever haha.  Constantly jumping around a few tenths of a volt.  Even with no tunes and idling the trucks dash lights are slightly pulsing at idle.  Real annoying.  I will say though that once I start driving and bumping tunes the 250 mechman does do really well holding the voltage.  Im gonna try the DC power 270 PCM controlled just to try and steady out my voltage at idle.

Really need to try some new subs too.  Unfortunately the way I trimmed my back seat brackets and built my amp rack I cant really lift the seat at all.  I ordered a cheap box from a guy online that builds truck boxes, I know thats my main problem.  It fits all the E8s and they're wired to 1 ohm on the SCV 2000.  But there is just not enough space or port for them.  This box is not well built and I already sort of knew that.  Its tuned WAYYY to high.  I have zero low end.  Some higher bass songs do alright though.  

I think I need to switch to just two SA-8s and tune the amp down.  I think thats about all I could fit and get tuned and ported properly.   However, Im also entertaining the idea of the new sundown U series.  I really liked the single SA-12 on 1,000 watts in my old truck.  So Im thinking a new U12 or U 10 would pair nicely to the SCV2000.  And it doesnt look like they require as much air space as the X series??? Im hoping it might be possible to have the sub sit pointing up right where the middle back passengers leg would be then would connect to the rest of the box all under the seat with port out the side.  So basically Im talking about building one box that is like the one I have now but opens in to another box thats between the back seats on the ground, right behind the middle front seat aiming up.  Think that would work???

A few more audio build pics I never posted

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Heres the SMD meter

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the crappy box housing the E-8s.  Small slot port out the back.  Just not tuned right.  E-8s are great little subs!  But just not gonna work for my application. 

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How the truck looks nowadays.  Long ways to go.

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SWEET!~

 

Love the truck.  Stereo setup looks clean as fuuuuuuuuuu....dig it bro, thanks for coming back to share.  Any videos of the truck in action?

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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