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Soldering Fuse Block to Power Wire?


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Hey fellas how's it going. Quick question, not sure if people do this or not but came here wondering if I can get some insight. So I wired up my car a few days ago with new 1/0 gauge copper wire. When I put my fuse block by my battery the Allen bolt that "crimps" the wire inside the fuse block, I feel doesn't hold the 1/0 gauge tight enough. Or maybe it's just my OCD kicking in and want to secure that  it never comes off with the vibration of the car/engine.. So now for the golden question, has anyone ever OR is it okay if I melt some solder into my fuse block 1/0 wire insert and put my power wire in it to lock in the connection and make sure it never comes loose like you would with a ring terminal? Thanks in advanced for any input!

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50 minutes ago, Skullz said:

Don't do it

Get an anl fuse holder that uses lugs instead then.

Years ago i had one of them and it loosened to the point it melted the plastic and came close to starting a fire.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15317_e2-EWFH-by-Scosche.html

Yeah that's what I'm afraid of, so the ANL fuse holder will require both ends of the power wire coming into the fuse holder  to have ring terminals right? Looks like just what I need, that way I can solder some terminals on there and call it a day.

 

Edit: I just did a quick YouTube search and saw how the ANL holder works. Just what I need, thanks so much! 

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I hate those set screw connections. The set screw smashes through the middle of the wire and the sides get no clamping force at all. I am waiting for an amp to come out with studs so I can connect with crimp lugs. lol

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

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Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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51 minutes ago, ShadeTreeMechanic said:

I hate those set screw connections. The set screw smashes through the middle of the wire and the sides get no clamping force at all. I am waiting for an amp to come out with studs so I can connect with crimp lugs. lol

You mean like the barrier strip connections amps used to have back in the day,

the ones people just used to fork the end of the wire and shove the bare wire in them instead of using a spade terminal?

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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No I mean big 3/8 inch studs that a 2/0 lug could fit on.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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Those old school strips are garbage too. I had several loosen over time and cause issues. Ones similar to anl fuse blocks would be awesome. The skar amps i have now have the set screw style so i used hydraulic crimpers to crimp a ring terminal on the wire then cut the loop off leaving just the solid back and drilled a small hole for the set screw to set in. Works good.

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There are plenty of pictures of melted anl style fuse holders on the forums.

 

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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