Kennyy Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Hey guys I've been doing research across the forum and around the web. I can't find an accurate answer so was wondering if you guys can help me out. Long story short I switched amps and my new amp only takes 4 gauge wiring for power and ground, I'm running 1/0 OFC and I do not want to downgrade, so I got some gauge reducers. My question is, I hate the little Allen screw that secures the power wire on the actual gauge reducers so I want to solder them. I used to think that the little screws held the wire a properly but recently I had a connection come loose which resulted in my old amp dying. So with thatt being said, can anyone recommend the best type of solder for this application? I read through the soldering big wire thread and it looks like some use 60/40 rosin core, is this the best option to do? Using 60/40 rosin core will I have to use flux or will that not be necessary? I don't mind taking the extra step of using flux but I just want to make sure I can use 60/40 with it. If I can't use 60/40 what solder type should I use to solder 1/0 to 4/0 reducers. P.S. if anyone can give me soldering tips on soldering reducers that would be awesome! I've soldered ring terminals but never reducers, is there any difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s5300 Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 So, soldering these may lead to some big problems due to the nature of the application down the line. Anyways - if you really don't like the set screws, my best advise is to weld them. After that, I'd say get a hex cap bolt, drill a hole through part of the cap, torque it down tight as shit, then run safety wire through said hole, around the portion of the reducer that doesn't fit into the amp, and properly tighten it so your bolt never backs out. However - to the soldering point. 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core would work fine. Rosin core is the flux, for something as large as this, you shouldn't need extra. You're probably going to want to have a vise for something like this, along with a torch to make it easy. Heat up the reducer and fill the wire insert pretty heftily with solder. Having the screw in may be helpful for it to not leak out, but you'd have to post a pic of the ones you have. After that, tin your wire, being careful to not send the solder far up the jacket. Afterwards, nicely jigged (as in, reducer secure in the vise or something else, wire vertically above it ready to drop in) - heat the reducer until the solder earlier inserted pools nicely, then shove the wire in with vice grips or something and let it properly cool. Probably a lot of other good ways, but this is the quickest I could try to make sense of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 That's odd. I've ran dual blocks for seasons, many of them and have never ever ever had a SS back out. Bummer. Edit - like, the amp has a SS to secure the adapter right? Solder just seems redundant as hell to me, but, best of luck SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyy Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Thanks for the replies guys! Anyway, yes the amplifier has a SS for the reducer, I honestly wouldn't want to solder it but after what happened last week (power wire came loose and made contact with the ground wire right next to it). I guess it's kinda of a dumb design on the amps part as well, being that the 1/0 power and ground inputs are about 3mm apart... but I made sure to tighten the heck out the Set screws and somehow enough wire backed out to spark the ground right next to it. I'm very OCD when it comes to my wiring so I made sure the wire jacket was cut back only the amount it needed so no bare wire stuck out the input, but like I saidsomehow it still came loose so I want to do my best to prevent that. As far as not being a good idea to solder the reducers, what problems can this cause down the line and what causes those issues? I want to make sure the connection is solid so I never have to worry about it again. Set screws have never given me issues until this time so I'm kinda paranoid and figure soldering will give me peace of mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Youre talking about the 1/0 pulling out of the reducer right? I am not an expert in soldering but what are those reducers made of, aluminum? Just curious. And are you sure they aren't over sized or the wire is undersized? Another option could be a distro block with 18" or so of 4 ga Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 If it was me, if just make sure the SS is tight and put some shrink wrap over the adapter and wire. Check SS's now and then. Just me SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonXL04 Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Yea I have had those set screws come loose only have putting fresh new wire into one and cranking it down as tight as I can. Come back a couple days and you can tighten it more. But most of the time it isn't a problem. Maybe some removable loctite on the set screw threads would help? 18 Sierra 6.2 Z71 : 3 F8L's, DD M2a @.67, 1.95@33 05 TL build log SOLD 04 YukonXL : jvc kw-v51bt , RE 6.5c, 4 jbl gt5 12s, Memphis pr1000.1 5.5 cu.ft. sealed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s5300 Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 34 minutes ago, Kennyy said: Thanks for the replies guys! Anyway, yes the amplifier has a SS for the reducer, I honestly wouldn't want to solder it but after what happened last week (power wire came loose and made contact with the ground wire right next to it). I guess it's kinda of a dumb design on the amps part as well, being that the 1/0 power and ground inputs are about 3mm apart... but I made sure to tighten the heck out the Set screws and somehow enough wire backed out to spark the ground right next to it. I'm very OCD when it comes to my wiring so I made sure the wire jacket was cut back only the amount it needed so no bare wire stuck out the input, but like I saidsomehow it still came loose so I want to do my best to prevent that. As far as not being a good idea to solder the reducers, what problems can this cause down the line and what causes those issues? I want to make sure the connection is solid so I never have to worry about it again. Set screws have never given me issues until this time so I'm kinda paranoid and figure soldering will give me peace of mind Just my intuition, but I thing over time a joint that large would get knocked apart by heavy bass and other things. It's kinda like why the official spec sheet for anderson connectors calls for crimping instead of soldering. I guess if it does break, all you have to do is take it out and heat it back up though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 One solution is to solder the wire before inserting it into the reducer to reduce the chance of it coming loose over time, and also use some loctite on the set screw. Option two is to run 4ga to a distro or battery in back, with it being such a short run you shouldn't see any issues. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyy Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 I believe the wire I'm running is actually over sized. (Rockford Fosgate 1/0)...I thought of using the distribution blocks but figured it would defeat the purpose of not soldering considering my Rockford fosgate blocks use set screws as well. Another reason for wanting reducers is to make connecting and disconnecting super easy since it defeats having to twist wire etc to try and fit in the input. Aside of a solder that big breaking in the future is there any other issue I can run into soldering the reducers? I'm only running 1500 Watts rms so my bass usage isn't going to be too crazy. For the member that asked if it's the 1/0 pulling out the reducer, yes..the reducer sits very secure on the amp once the set screw is tight so I want to secure the actual wire not coming out of the 1/0-4/0 reducer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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