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Fuse sizes.. why so high?


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2 hours ago, fmedina said:

what kind of fused battery post is that? can we get a wider view of that thing please.

 

17 minutes ago, 06RTCharger said:

Also that batt terminal looks cheaply made? Does the flat end thats melted have full contact to metal on that dual terminal? Looks like the melted end is only resting on the grey plastic. The only point of contact for the fuse on the melted side is the bolt? If so, that could be causing the resistance/heat. 

 

It is a cheaper terminal imo, its a Wirez BTFPS-4 terminal.

http://www.gotwirez.com/btfps-4

 

 

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correct, its a WIREZ brand dual terminal.. i really thought it melted due to the fuse being too small and shared between the 4g and 0g wire.. too much current and fuse couldnt handle it and melted..

i have changed it to 150amp fuse now,.. i guess i will monitor is the next few weeks, if it melts too i guess it means there is a bad connection somewhere?

and yes i wanted to do the classic large anl fuse method as shown in the picture in that one post.. but the shop didnt have 0g terminals in stock so i couldnt do it and he told me this wirez terminal would work just fine..so i trusted him and used that instead.

 

 

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Yes if it melts again it would be due to a lose connection, either the terminal connected to the battery is making poor contact, or the screws holding the fuse down are not tight and making full contact with the battery terminal, or may even be a bad connection where your power wire goes into the terminal.
But like I said if there was too much current going though that fuse that it got hot and melted then the fuse should of blown, If its a 100amp fuse it should handle 100ish amps of current to the point that if the current draw is too high it would be blown. So this is why your shop told you its fine, he is not wrong with saying that at all, he is just wrong for not stocking the simplest of items that should be stocked. lol

Be sure to get another fuse on that wire 12 or so inches before the rear battery, like I said that 1 fuse is not doing nothing currently but protecting your front battery if a short in the wire happens, and leaves your rear battery and amplifier(s) prone to damage if such short happens.

Both batteries are grounded to the car frame, but if you have the extra wire laying around not being used then you might as well use it up and help reduce any sort of voltage drop.
The chassis grounds are good for about 5000-6000 watts rms, anything more than that you should start thinking of adding the ground between the batteries, but of coarse all vehicles are different, so it really depends.

In your case with a 2000wrms amp and a 4channel the additional ground between the batteries is not really needed and the normal chassis ground in the front and rear should be more than fine!

 

 

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  • 6 months later...

Reviving an old thread, but I have a situation that is somewhat similar.  I have eliminated my front battery and have installed 2 group 31's under the bed of my truck.  (S-10 4.3) My amplifiers are properly fused from the batteries, but I am concerned with the size of fusing I should run at the end of each of my power wire since these batteries are also supplying cranking power to start my truck.  I currently have 1 run of 1/0 with a 300A breaker on each end with a 250A alternator.  It seems to start ok when the batteries are fully charged, but are the 300A breakers limiting the cranking amps to my starter?  Having seen many newer cars with a rear mounted battery, it seems odd that they would have a standard 4 gauge oem wire unprotected to the starter.  Should I install larger fuses (500A)to increase the cranking amperage although the 1/0 is not rated that high, or should I simplify things and add a battery back under the hood? 

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Installing a larger fuse does not increase cranking amperage. 
You could put a 100 amp fuse on there or a 10,000,000 amp fuse on the wire and there would be no difference in how the vehicle starts.

A fuse or circuit breaker does nothing except blowing or tripping when current exceeds its rating for too long.

No average vehicle takes 300 amps to start, max starter draw is usually around 100 amps or less.
Now if you had some high compression, heavily built up motor you would need a stronger starter the draws more current, but still even then 300 amps is pushing it.

 

 

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