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Building a subwoofer


bmwking

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ok so i went out to get the most precise measurements that i could of the coil and the motor gap, they are as follows:

 

Coil:
Winding Height: 54.2mm/2.13"
Coil ID: 75.7mm/2.98"
Coil OD: 79.5mm/3.13"
Former height: 99.9mm/3.93"

Motor:
Vent pole OD: 75.3mm/2.96"
Motor ID:  80.5mm/3.17"
Gap: 3mm/0.12"
Gap depth from top of motor: 72.44mm/2.85"
Gap depth from top of vent pole: 83.55mm/3.29"
Pole height above motor: 10.9mm/0.43"

 

So knowing that, I'll have to continue searching for coils i think.  again, any help or suppliers to go through... big help!  thanks again for looking!
 

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4 hours ago, Clp410 said:

I need help. I broke 3 terminals on my skar audio txl 15 and skar can't help. I don't want a 400$ paper weight over something so small. Its the kind that has the plastic between the frame and terminals. 

maybe this will work?  only idea i have...

https://thelordofbass.com/product/spring-loaded-binding-terminal/

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Got a reply from psi finally, they had the coil specs on hands and pointed me to this coil that they use for meso recones

https://fixmyspeaker.com/product/3-018-x-3-148-x-1-97-dual-1-8-copper-fw-5fh-612/

 

Once I pick this coil up, what do I need to look for as far as spiders and cones?  I still can't find an 8" basket that fits my bolt pattern so I'm think I may have to settle for a 10".  

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ok so im building a shopping/parts list.

so far I have the coil in the previous post

I'm waiting on a reply from psi about possible basket options with my bolt pattern in an 8 so this list will be for making the 10"

this basket: https://thelordofbass.com/product/10-four-spoke-subwoofer-frame-2/
this cone/surround:  https://thelordofbass.com/product/10-tall-roll-subwoofer-cone-3-vcid/
this spider w/dual sewn leads (do i need more than one spider?  how does this work?):  https://fixmyspeaker.com/product/8-progressive-roll-spider-for-3-coil-stiff/
this dustcap:  https://thelordofbass.com/product/4-72-120mm-carbon-fiber-dust-cap/

so total cost including motor: $129.  that aint bad!

i know ill need shims and adhesives, but is this basically what ill need as far as parts go to have all the components of a working sub?  I know I'm asking a metric fuckton of questions, I just dont want to throw money at it and then build it and have it not work.

 

Thanks for everything, everybody!

 

 

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alright, based on recommendations from psi ill be going with the 10"  

so it looks like my shopping list will be accurate as for what parts i get.

so when it comes to assembly, are all speaker shims identical for shimming between the coil and vent pole?  or is it more of a see what fits when you get the parts then make one and go with it?  

the black glue... will i be using black ca glue to attach the cone to the spider and coil?  obv the surround to the basket is same glue and a ton of clamps, same for the spider and it's landingi get that part.  putting the cone, spider, and coil together tho... that kind of confuses me.

 

any help, as usual, is much appreciated!  thanks for letting me type out my thoughts as im going through the process in my brain :)

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You really dont need to clamp the surround, glue it, put the surround down, and put the rubber gasket on the basket. typically this is more than enough pressure, then spray accelartor around the surround from under the cone. This is how most manufactures do it.

It really depends on the CA glue you use, some brands are not foam safe, some are not rubber safe, some work just fine on rubber, and are a rubber toughened ca. There is more to ca glue than just the color being black (ie all glues are not the same). Some have different tempatures they will fail at, while others maybe thinner or thicker viscosity (I prefer something a little thicker myself, but not gel like which is also made).

If your ordering everything from PSI, ask David what he suggests because he knows the glue he sells and typically wont release that information let alone MSDS sheets for it "trade secrets". He might say to use a rubber or nitrile type glue for the surround and dust cap, and ca for the spider to basket landing, voice coil to spider joint, and cone to voice coil/spider joint (triple joint as its called).

As for shims, I use X-rays I got from a buddy that was a technician and cut them to size to fit around the inside of the voice coil former with out 1 end overlapping the other end making it thicker. I then continue to install more with offsetting the seam so the gap between each piece of film is evenly spaced around.

You can use several sheets of paper to do this as well, or manila folders, overhead transparency sheets, etc.
You can buy his shims as well but they are pricey imo and you really dont know how many layers you will need until you start to shim the coil out.
I personally like to use several thinner shims to get the coil gap spaced as tight as possible.

Ideally you want it so the coil can slide down all the way in the gap with little force when its shimmed out, but that its tight enough that it can support its own weight when its inside the gap without falling to the bottom.

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, audiofanaticz said:

You really dont need to clamp the surround, glue it, put the surround down, and put the rubber gasket on the basket. typically this is more than enough pressure, then spray accelartor around the surround from under the cone. This is how most manufactures do it.

It really depends on the CA glue you use, some brands are not foam safe, some are not rubber safe, some work just fine on rubber, and are a rubber toughened ca. There is more to ca glue than just the color being black (ie all glues are not the same). Some have different tempatures they will fail at, while others maybe thinner or thicker viscosity (I prefer something a little thicker myself, but not gel like which is also made).

If your ordering everything from PSI, ask David what he suggests because he knows the glue he sells and typically wont release that information let alone MSDS sheets for it "trade secrets". He might say to use a rubber or nitrile type glue for the surround and dust cap, and ca for the spider to basket landing, voice coil to spider joint, and cone to voice coil/spider joint (triple joint as its called).

As for shims, I use X-rays I got from a buddy that was a technician and cut them to size to fit around the inside of the voice coil former with out 1 end overlapping the other end making it thicker. I then continue to install more with offsetting the seam so the gap between each piece of film is evenly spaced around.

You can use several sheets of paper to do this as well, or manila folders, overhead transparency sheets, etc.
You can buy his shims as well but they are pricey imo and you really dont know how many layers you will need until you start to shim the coil out.
I personally like to use several thinner shims to get the coil gap spaced as tight as possible.

Ideally you want it so the coil can slide down all the way in the gap with little force when its shimmed out, but that its tight enough that it can support its own weight when its inside the gap without falling to the bottom.

 

Awesome, awesome info there man.  Thank you!  How about setting the height of the coil in the gap?  How deep do I want it to be at neutral?  Or how do I figure it out?

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I use to have recone videos that where pretty long and went through all this, but deleted them.

You need to measure the top plate thickness, the winding thickness the spider landing height from the bottom of the basket (plus any spacers being used between the basket and motor), and divide one of the numbers and subtract other numbers from other numbers.

Really I forget unless I got a coil and motor/basket sitting in front of me to do so.

Bryan from DTX doing a few spider/coil assemblies to see how its done.

 

 

 

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  • 4 months later...

bet you guys thought i gave up on this huh?  nope, just taking my sweet ass time because life.

got my cone, basket, triple joint ring, and glue in today.  just waiting on my coil, spider, and possibly some terminals (havent decided if i want to direct connect or not)

here's progress:

20180205_153129.thumb.jpg.828501b3b8f3769f188f182bad33f0b5.jpg20180205_153124_HDR.thumb.jpg.2231886c6fbad4974dc597d16345a5b0.jpg

 

gonna be a pretty beast 10 i hope

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