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Back with a new car, and a new build. 2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback will be the new canvas.
And here is the Sub! DC Audio Level 4 12 D1 with direct leads, carbon fiber cap, and candy red basket:
So far I have designed a box in WINISD and Torres to come up with a 2.5 ft^3 Net box with a 22" long 6" aero port (Big Ass Port.) I will post up screenshots from each program to get a second look at the specs in the box building section.
Plan is to hook this bad boy up to my Rockford Fosgate T1500bdcp at 2 ohms, providing 1500 watts at a slightly higher efficiency than the amp provides at 1 ohm.
For the doors so far, we have some SSA Evil 6.5s tucked in with some NVX deadener and Stinger FAST Rings. Doors are definitely not complete, but it's a start.
Evils vs stock speakers:
This will be a slow build, but it's going to get exciting, so stay tuned!
So I have a 2009 Acura TL tech pack model that I installed a custom sound system in and I'm getting a bit of high pitch whine after driving the car for around an hour.
The sound does not start immediately when the car is turned on but the sound (once it appears, after around an hour of running the car) does not go away when the HU is turned off.
The system is as follows:
0 guage power and ground ran to two kinetik hc600 batteries and the grounded to the chassis off the last battery in line. The powere is ran off the last battery to a distro block then to the amps (using 4 guage) (one rockford fosgate p1000-1d and one rockford fosgate p400-4) Both amps ground to there own kinetik battery (using 4 gauge) and as stated before the last battery in line grounds to the chassis (with one 0 guage ground) I also have a rockford fosgate 3sixty.3 wired in from the factory amp speaker outputs to pick up sound from the HU so I can EQ the signal before its sent to the new amps. The 3sixty.3 then feeds the signal to the amps using Digital Designs buildable RCA cables which I have made to be very short and ran away from the power and ground wires. Due to the placement of the kinetik batteries and the I ran the ground for the 3sixty.3 to the last battery in line and the power to the first battery in line.
My question are should I add a second run of 0 gauge wire to ground out the first kinetik battery to the chassis instead of grounding it to the next battery and if so should I ground it in the same location as the last battery?
And does it matter that I'm running the power to one battery and ground to another on the 3sixty.3?
And why doesnt the whine start until after the cars been running for some time?
AND why does the sound remain after turning off the head unit?
ps the sound goes away if I turn the car off and then immediately back on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm a first time poster on here so please be nice and feel free to ask me for anything else you might need to help me diagnose this.
I am looking to upgrade the electrical in my Honda Civic 1.8L 08 Coupe. I already have done some preliminary stuff, but I am in need of an alternator option.
From what I can tell Mechman is a great option, but I wanted to know if anyone has had experiences with Mechman in a Civic? or any other companies for that matter.
whats up fam. so heres a quick run down of my system. not a trunk build, not a wall, just a simple ugly back seat build lol i am a construction electrician with my trunk almost always full with tools and material for work. only other spot to fit a sub box with out doing a wall is my back seat. i just need some bass! not really going for looks. ive had some pictures on what i had before (just went from a skar evl15 to a dc xl15 and sae1500 to a dc 2k) so here are some recent pics... hope you guys enjoy...
i personally did the big3 with sky high 1/0 up front and ran power from front stock battery to rear full throttle group 34. messed up by getting a blue big 3 kit instead of red lol oh well.
heres what it looked like before i swapped out the sae1500. the rest of the wiring was done by arden audio in sacramento. when i went home and did a lil inspection i have noticed the ground going to the 4ch amp was just self tapped in with 3 screws on the frame of the vehicle. wasnt too happy about it so instead of complaining i just went ahead and fixed it. both grounds are now sharing an existing grounding point directly under the driver seat. everything else was fine, thanks arden audio!
and heres the box just sitting on the back seat haha
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