8ten8 Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Jesus, just knowing that the subsonic should be set @ 28hz for a 10 should tell you she's good to go. Just build build the damm and show your appreciation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theaestheticgreek Posted October 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Sorry BRO... I was just trying to converse with the man and let him know that if he thought it would be better, we could give more airspace. Don’t lose your mind, believe me im very appreciative for anybody trying to help me out. I’m all for helping myself to I just can’t seem to get a program working on my computer. Thinking about biting the bullet and just purchasing some nice software though. I used to build quite often and I had my own little way of doing things but I’m just trying to get back into a little bit. Maybe I could be the one helping someone else that needs guidance one day. And also, I’m about knowing why I did something a certain way, rather than just going directly from point a to point b without knowing what got me there. And ida set subsonic around 28 probly anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theaestheticgreek Posted October 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Anyways ya all help is VERY appreciated I promise. But ya idk, not sure if the box you designed joe would be idea to be behind the seat of my truck? Like the sub would be on the passenger side firing forward, and then the port coming up out of the box behind the drivers head on the end of the box. Only difference between your box and the one I was wanting to build is basically the way we would do the port. But I think I can take it from here possibly. Tomorrow I’ll do it all on paper. I’ll mimic your port area and port volume? Should give me the same tuning I’d assume? And thanks again man. I miss talking box stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 That was provided as reference, might be useful for testing your own calculations for example, to tell you if it's suitable to build for your truck you would need to provide some more infos and pics on what you want. Can tell you that if you are using the SAZ.3000D even at 2 ohm is way too much heat for that sub, more so if you build your box to a larger net volume, mechanical failure of the sub would likely result at the slightest mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theaestheticgreek Posted October 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Ya no I agree it would be more power than needed but I wouldn’t overdo it. Keep the gains down n keep the signals clean ya know? Anyhow, I can show you where the box would sit. Been busy today but I’ll take some pictures real quick. I mean you could make the box hatch style if you wanted but... it’s just a regular cab pickup so space is limited and the amp would have really nowhere to go but to screw into the box. Which would do nothing but take up space but I think by mounting the amp lower on the box (where the seat doesn’t come as close to the cab) we’d be ok. Not to mention sub mounting depth. But I think even at 7.5 deep (external depth) we’d be ok. But I’d just put the sub at the bottom passenger or driver side facing against the back of my trucks bench seat. With the port being on the opposite side of the box, firing up out of the box... so... what? 3 common port walls I’d say? Anyways I’m gonna go take a picture. But I’d just like for the sub to be able to play decently low. Nothing crazy low.. if it played down to 30hz it would be cool but it’s an L7 and I’m not trying to push this sub like I would other setups I’ve had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theaestheticgreek Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 failed attempt to upload pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theaestheticgreek Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Ok so the following could be one way to do it, sub forward port sideways non slanted box, 8 in depth is 6 1/4" mounting depth + 1/4" sub clearance to the rear wall + 2x0.75 for the wood thickness front + rear totals 8" depth, I think it will fit, if not then a slanted box could be tried but it's harder to build or port up as you planned before something wider and not as tall. To know if a particular box size will fit I usually recommend building a cardboard test box to test fit. Power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 4 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theaestheticgreek Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 That’s beautiful man I couldn’t be happier right now and if mounting depth becomes an issue I’ll just widdle myself a little square baffle to lift the sun out a little. The port I wanted to shoot up out of the box though, so maybe I could just take the port width you’ve provided and do that? Or did you not do it that way for a reason? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 Yes port firing sideways is a common and often successful configuration for your type of vehicle but here is also the one you wanted, port firing upwards.here's the 8" depth version that wouldn't require a lift for the sub, it has larger net volume so one needs to be very careful with input power and the SS filter setting. Power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 4 1/4", figure is just an assembly guide: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.