Jump to content
WalledSonic

"Shadow" 2016 Jeep Wrangler JK/4th Order/(4) 8's/DC 3.5K/Large Case Hairpin US Alts

Recommended Posts

31 minutes ago, YukonXL04 said:

Hey man. How's the alt install coming along?

Pretty good, but didnt finish.  Need to order some hardware and some 2.5" wide flat bar for the lower bracket.  But made some serious progress!

So the lower bracket under the alt... I didnt really plan for that design yet.  We mainly focused on the primary bracket that connects to the block.

26137081469_9a03a513f8_b.jpg

We started by pulling the alt and lining up the pulleys so we can get an accurate measurement for the main bracket.  The thickness is right around 27mm, so we're using 1" bar plus a washer for fine tuning the spacing.

37864779806_a62ed8fbbd_b.jpg

Then we mark the bracket up with all the cut lines and drill spots, along with marks that indicate to NOT remove material.  By the way, this slide base is a major necessity for a drill press.

37864777266_ab3bb779ab_b.jpg

Proper tapping procedures resulted in relatively easy tapping despite the thickness.

37864775466_6be6b595ba_b.jpg

I didnt take enough pics, but we carefully used a chop saw to remove a huge triangle, then proceeded to grind the trough smooth.  A 40 grit flapper disc removes material FAST.

37203544774_3db0c91a19_b.jpg

The notch on the front face is to clear the belt.

37882412612_5b6f610e51_b.jpg

And then we reassembled everything real quick and went out to a costume party!  Good times.  More to come soon on the rest of the alternator install.  The hardest part is behind us, for sure.  

Thanks for checking it out! 

 

Edited by WalledSonic
formatting flickr pics
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need to determine the new belt length so that next time we remove the alt, the new one gets installed.

Measured the pulleys and did simple "pi*r" calc for half belt wrap.  Old pulley half arc minus new pulley half arc equals 0.35" belt length decrease

24084244788_8ceb526369_b.jpg

Then we measured the pulley height with respect to the mounting holes of each alt (58mm on the new alt, 42 on the old one), shown on the top half of the pic below.  Since there is a belt run on each side of the pulley, you multiply the difference (16mm) by 2.  Thats about 1.25" increase in length.  

On the bottom of the pic below, we also measured the height increase due to the new bracket.  The hole-to-hole vertical height is (16mm).  Again, multiply by 2 due to a belt on either side of the pulley.  Thats again, about 1.25"

24084243188_cece8cf930_b.jpg

Sum it all up, 1.25"+1.25"-0.35" = 2.15" increase in length.  We'll find some belts in that size range and scoop them up.  Makes guessing a bit closer.

Another view of the bracket, illustrating why the front face of the bracket is ground out.

24084239878_0c980234f5_b.jpg

And another one

24084239158_7304932934_b.jpg

Edited by WalledSonic
formatting flickr pics
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like what's going on here!!!   I like that strange mopar sub too.....   Can't wait to see the box all finished, I like the stained wood too

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/3/2017 at 9:18 AM, 2loud4uboyz said:

Same here you do good work. Love the box clean fab skills.

 

3 minutes ago, GTO nate said:

I like what's going on here!!!   I like that strange mopar sub too.....   Can't wait to see the box all finished, I like the stained wood too

Thanks for the interest guys.  This build is taking a break so that I can get my own build playing by Thanksgiving, but we plan to have the JK banging by New Years!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Werk werk werk

38279281884_44cc9eecca_b.jpg

Prepping that bus, buster

38108546645_fd5f8fef3a_b.jpg

Fuse block

38279280444_f17561d3b9_b.jpg

Super cheap to fab your own fuse blocks.  My Sonic got some fancy shit from 12V MetalWorks, but I dont think I'll ever pay for a fuse block again after having done this for my buddy's JK. 

25124047658_7c31edcfab_b.jpg

Proper tools make this a breeze

38279278554_538926b96c_b.jpg

More coming soon.

 

Edited by WalledSonic
formatting flickr pics
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Joshdashef
      Most updated pics can be found at https://www.tumblr.com/blog/joshdashef | I use Tumblr as my picture hosting platform | 
      Previously I had a RF Prime 750.1 going to two RF 12 4DVC on stock electrical and big three.
       
      New Build Equipment
      Active Setup from HU: Pioneer 80 PRS
       
      Front Stage
      T2652-S powered off a P600X4 (4 ohm | speaker per channel)
      Lows
      2x P3 4DVC powered off a DC Audio 2k (1 ohm | Dual 1/0 inputs)
      Batteries
      Starter - Walmart Group 51R | Reserve - XS D3400 (Flat 6 bolt) 
      Alternator
      Mechman 240 Blue 
      Wiring
      RCAs - Rockford Fosgate 20ft | Sky High 1/0 Blue (2 runs) | Sky High 10 gauge (subs) | Front Stage Speaker Wire - undecided matching Sky High 14 gauge
      Fuse Holders / Gauges
      Stinger Volt meter | Sky High dual anl fuse holder (two for main power and one for sub amp input) | SMD Fuse Blocks 3x dual 1x single
       
       
      Planned Upgrade List
      3 pairs of RCAs  Done
      New Wider False Floor Not needed
      New Sub Enclosure 2x12 or 1x15
      Amp Rack for Dc 2k and four channel 
      Distribution Block/Fuses (trunk)
      Dual Fuse Mount under hood  Done
      Running two runs of 1/0 Sky High OFC front to back
      Battery Mount for XS D3400
      Mechman HO Alternator
      New Headliner
      New Rear Parcel Tray or Reinforce old?
      Fix Gas Lid Wire  Done
      Stinger Volt Meter for front and rear batteries amplifier input
       
       
      Sound Deaden areas;
      Doors
      Roof
      Wheel Wells 
      Hood
      Trunk lid (lower 1/2 done)
      Trunk spare tire (1/4 done)
      Parcel Tray
       
      Head Unit: Pioneer 80 PRS

      Amp:

      Subs / Old Q-power Box:

      Under Hood:





      Day 1: Strippin 'er down
      Trunk

      Cabin | Rear/Front Seats Removed and some panels including center console (didn't get a pic of rear seats will do tomorrow)




    • By Wicks
      Hey everybody,
      Time for me to join the party!
      The Harmon Kardon factory system in my M3 just wasn't doin' it for me so I decided to rip err all out and do some WERK!
      So here's what I started with:


      I didn't like any of the factory components, so I'm building it head to toe, here's a list of the main components:
      Mechman 320A (to replaced the factory 120A)
      One run each (power/ground) of 0 gauge OFC, front to back (stock battery is in the trunk)
      Two XS Power XP3000's (jumped in on the group buy recently)
      Alpine INA-W900 (As you will see later, this was quite a battle to install)
      Alpine Imprint H100
      Alpine Sirius Tuner
      Coax signal cables
      12Ga Knu Kord speaker wire for Mids/Highs
      8Ga Stinger OFC for subs/highs amp
      Hertz HSK130 5 1/4" Components
      Rockford Fosgate Punch200DSM for the highs (OLD SCHOOL from 1993!)
      DC Audio 2.0K
      DC Audio XL12m2
    • By Joshdashef
      With my previous amp, R750-1D, the wiring was wired in parallel internally and had two sets of speaker outputs (+ and -). Currently I have two 4 ohm dual voice coil subs each wired down to 2 ohms, and put into each of the pairs. 
       
      Here is the wiring diagram for my current amplifier: Link for full PDF

      My question is with the upgraded amplifier I will be using, a DC 2k, do I need to follow this same routine and wire two sets of 2 ohm and it is internally paralleled.
       
    • By mike12
      So I have been trying to calculate my first 4th order for 2 orion hcca 10s. I have started with having a seperate sealed chamber for each sub with 0.625 cuft each and a common ported chamber of 2.5 cuft tuned to 45hz. I was just wondering how much port area I would need? Also if the airspace would be fine? Also I went for a 2:1 ratio since that was pretty common, what would be the advantage of going to a bigger ratio like a 3:1? Ive heard these subs like smaller enclosures so I didnt want to get to big. Thanks!
    • By Rich Schenk
      Have a c-pillar slide in wall in my 00 mountaineer for 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s and need to seal it off. Was told by some people spray foam in garbage bags around box. Question with this because it's right next to windows will regular and big gap foam potentially break a window or will I be fine with it against a window. (sorry never done this) also how should I mount false panels to roof, sides, etc? Any info or help on this would be greatly appreciated Ty.
      https://flic.kr/p/22bEi6R
      https://flic.kr/p/21EYhLS
  • Who's Online   17 Members, 0 Anonymous, 910 Guests (See full list)

×