JumpinBean23 Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 2016 dodge dart current system 8.4" touch screen non-amplified 6 speaker system - 3.5" x 2 in dash, 6x9 in all 4 doors Looking for a relatively simple stock speaker upgrade to sound better than stock while keeping the stock head unit. I am no audiophile but the stock speakers sound muddy and lack clarity to me. I will be deadening all the doors with whatever option I go with. Have some ideas but looking for input. trying not to rewire doors if possible. Haven't found a ho alternator, so factory power may be an issue other than the big 3, and a 2nd battery which i am trying to avoid right now. No amps have been chosen yet. Future front stage ideas 1) Replace dash with Rockford p132 & doors with p1692 or other (Most consistent positive reviews found for what it is worth) Dash speakers are spliced into front doors. run 4 channel amp and add loc (seems to be the easy solution) 2) Replace front doors with components leave dash and rear speakers with loc or dsp (passive vs active.. the struggle continues) 3) Replace front doors and dash with raw drivers with dsp, leave rear speakers alone ( my gut says yes but my ocd says no) 4) your best ideas! I am new to integrating a factory head unit, so I am not sure of the best option to go with. Any thoughts are welcome. I am trying to stay under $1500 total with everything, but I'm not set on anything yet, so we'll see how close I can get! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acain406 Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 Personally even on a budget build when trying to keep the factory headunit, I would save up the extra money or adjust a few things to buy a dsp. I would suggest using a JL Audio Fix 86 if it’s in the budget. Now onto speakers, if you’re just looking for a decent upgrade from factory, I would suggest running 6.5” components and running them actively (if you buy the dsp). I run JL C2 6.5” components in my front stage and left rears disconnected. Then as far as an amp, I haven’t put mine in yet but when I do it will be all active using a JL Audio TwK and a RD400/4. And make sure to use good quality sound deadener, and a decent amount of it. Pricing for my suggestions: -JL Audio Fix 86 ($379 retail) -JL Audio C2 650 Components ($250 retail) -JL Audio RD400/4 ($300 retail) -Misc costs (4 gauge amp kit, 4 channel RCA’s, speaker adapters, sound deadener, etc) (~$250) Total (minus tax and shipping because I don’t have sales tax where I’m from) (~$1,180) *so even buying that stuff (which there are cheaper speakers and amps out there, you would still have enough to buy a subwoofer setup (and if you stick to something smaller you may be able to get away with using a single run of 4 gauge OFC and a distribution block for both amps) The RD is a pretty efficient amp from what I’ve seen so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpinBean23 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 thanks for the reply, i never looked at the fix 86. Not sure if i want to spend that kind of money on a simple install though, especially if i have to add the twk on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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