jig Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 Hey guys new member here hoping for some advice. I've always had systems in my cars but nothing crazy (amps that say 2k watts and put out 300). This time I want to go BIG. I intend to be running 2 fi btl's 18's powered by a Taramps HD8k. Instead of just buying a component set for the front and coaxils in the rear I thought Id try something different this time. I wanted to try 4 Skar audio 6.5" mids in the doors and 4" tweeters (two in dash and two in rear). Thats 2,240 watts RMS. Best amps I have found so far to power these are either the tara or stetsom 2k 4 channels (would be running two of these). I've read that these amps (brazilian amps in general) are prone to distortion and not the best choice for mids and highs. The non brazalian amps don't seem to be putting out enough power. So what do you guys recommend? Should i just go with a Taramps? Is there a non brazalian amp that doesn't cost a shit ton of money and give me the power I need? I appreciate all and any advice and sorry if I sound ignorant but want to do it right this time. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 Welcome to the forum! Where did you get the 2,240 watts from? There are plenty of amps that can provide plenty of power for what you need. What specific speakers are you looking at, and how many. 4 mids and 4 tweets total? Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 Is that the Skar PAX 6.5 ur looking at? 260rms. Why not go with a Skar amp also? The SKv2 1300.2AB can do 500x2 at 4ohm. Wire both leftdoor 6.5s to a 4ohm load, and same for both of ur rightdoor 6.5s. So with the 2channel amp you’ll be able to run ur 4 mids “Active” with the power they want and with a class AB amp and still be at 4ohm(which is suggested for mids&highs). Then do the exact same for the tweeters. Buy the same amp for the tweets, and wire each sides pair together for a final 4ohm load to its own channel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 If ur doing four 6.5s per door then idk, i guess just one more of the same amp. You could wire down to 1ohm and get more power from the single amp for ur 6.5s but i wouldnt want my mids at 1ohm, if u want u could tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jig Posted November 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 Yes those are the mids I was looking at... And that will work as those can be had in 8 ohm. Harder part is the tweeters as they are 300watts rms each and yes I was going to run 4 of them. But they only come in 4 ohm. Perhaps there is a similar tweeters someone can recommend that is I ohm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 1 hour ago, jig said: Yes those are the mids I was looking at... And that will work as those can be had in 8 ohm. Harder part is the tweeters as they are 300watts rms each and yes I was going to run 4 of them. But they only come in 4 ohm. Perhaps there is a similar tweeters someone can recommend that is I ohm? One solution for ur tweets would be using the same amp but bridge the two channels together; becuase at 4ohm bridged the amp does 1400rms. Thats enough for ur four tweets. Also if u have four 4ohm tweets, i beleive you can wire all 4 together for 4ohm final load. Series/parallel? Not completly sure if it works but i think it does. The only downside is all ur tweets will be set with the same exact setting, u lose some individual tuning/tweeking ablilty. Also youd have wires ran all over to keep them together lol. Just an option tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jig Posted November 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 ya that would be a wiring nightmare! and having no seperation would be shitty. There has to be an amp that can power 4 of theses tweeters (they are skar vx4-st by the way). No one has said anything about the tara or stetsom?? should I just rule those out?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 I would only run class AB amps on my mids and highs, and yes I can tell the difference with class D. I ran a PPI 900.4 for a while until one of the channels blew. Running a ton of power to tweeters will end up sounding like crap. I would also keep it at 4 ohms or even 8 so the amps will have plenty of head room. Better off to use more soft dome tweeters at lower power. Same thing applies to mids, yes they can get loud but at the cost of sound quality. Since your goal is to be loud, I would find components that you like the sound of and then duplicate the setup until it is loud enough. Anyone can be loud but not everyone can sound good doing it. Tuned in for pictures. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jig Posted November 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 So you think I'd be better off running 6 or 8 100 watt 1" tweeters rather than 4 300 watt 4" ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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